Ditto to that, as I had to pay for those new flex lines Bob is talking about
(that go from fus to leg) at $79.95 each (I bought a full box (250 feet) of
the 1/4" Parker nylon line for less than that!) as the original builder did
the ala Cessna and hooked solid steel lines directly to the fuselage side
with the bungee gear legs (just a crack waiting to happen!). The plastic
line is good for 3000 psi so don't worry about it bursting. Like Bob says it
also makes brake bleeding a charm as you can see any bubbles and "tap" them
up the line to, and through, the pedal cylinders. It also bends a fairly
sharp radius without kinking, so negates the necessity for elbows and
fittings. Put a short length of 1/4" I.D. rubber hose over it where it goes
through the fuselage belly to protect it. Do not just use a grommet!
The big plus to this "cheap" product for you Bush seekers is that if you
carry a couple of union fittings in your tool bag, then a knife and a
leatherman tool will get you back on your way if you nick a line. Try that
if you crack a metal line on a back country strip. We all know there is only
one thing worse than a taildragger with no brakes and that is one with only
ONE brake!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: <
bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: Brake reservoirs
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To: <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
From: Bob Patterson <
bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Brake reservoirs
Cheer up Dave !
I really have NO problem with the plastic brake lines - in
fact, I prefer them to metal, as you can see bubbles, and they don't
fatigue-crack nearly as easily. ALL of the factory airplanes have
had the plastic brake and float retraction lines, and the plastic
fluid reservoirs, except the last 2 that you mention. All of my Rebels
have/had these lines, and Number 1 is still flying happily after
11 years ...
The last 2 demos were 'tricked out' with leather interiors
and several other options to show something like what an ambitious
builder might do, rather than the sparsely functional demos of
previous years. It's just a different approach, but the original
plastic lines are just fine for the job, and easier to install.
My latest Rebel came with metal brake lines and flex hose
sections, and lots of couplers. I wish the original builder hadn't
done that !! It makes it VERY hard to install fairings, and those
hoses will be expensive to replace - I'd be MUCH happier with the
clear plastic lines !!! (and will likely go that way at the first
sign of trouble with these ...)
.....bobp
--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 05:32 PM 4/23/01 -0700, you wrote:
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This is one thing that's been irking me for a while now.. The kit comes
with
the Brake Reservoir, brake lines, etc.. But they are all of a cheap
quality..
Having had the opportunity to see the factory planes in various states of
construction, I know that Murphy doesn't even use these cheap parts that
they
are supplying with the kits on their own planes.
The SR3500 has a metal can with a screw top, and a threaded flange on the
bottom for a brake reservoir. The brake and fuel lines on the Elite and
SR3500
are all Stainless Steel covered teflon hose, rather than the flimsy
looking
plastic tubing..
I guess it keeps the initial cost of the kit down, but I wonder how many
builders are just throwing away these parts when it comes time to use
them?
The cheaper parts might be adequate for the job.. But I wish there were
some
options from the factory to upgrade them when the kit is ordered, or to
not
include them at all..
Dave
Mike Kimball wrote:
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That's where I got the idea. From the Piper Arrow and Cherokee 180 I
used
Of
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Mike, It worked for Piper so why not! All Piper used was all the empty
1
pint brake fluid cans (like the EP420 catalyst can) with a fitting on
the
lower side that is put through the firewall, with the can straped to
the
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