Solid Rivets

LisaFly99 · Post by **LisaFly99** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:55 pm

In a message dated 4/22/01 9:04:26 AM Central Daylight Time,
flyinb@kfalls.net writes:

What about 1/8" flush an rivits?

BRUCE
Check with MAM tech department. I remember asking that question to someone in
tech back in 97, might have been Frances. And they said yes it could be done
with solid rivets. It was made with pulled rivets so Joe Builder wouldn't
need riveting skills.
Making it easier for more people to build.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:55 pm

Bruce, I believe it only takes about 3 solid rivets to be as strong in shear as 5 of the Avex/Avdel 1/8" pull rivets, so no reason you couldn't use solids as they would be stronger. Aircraft would also be a bit lighter using solids, as you won't have all those steel mandrels riding along with you. The extra work would be IMMENSE though, to build it with solid rivets, let alone adding to it your wanting to dimple every rivet hole. There are about 18,000+ rivets in the Rebel. Rivet spacing, on just about everything, is 15/16" (and you won't have the ability to increase this spacing due to prepunched pilot holes). I know it's hard to change you solid rivet builders over to these "POP" rivets, but once you build something with them you will have a hard time going back to building RV's!!!! One man operation and smoother skins when the rivets are pulled (vs impacted) into place, make these rivets a dream to work with. If you want the solid rivet look, instead of having that extra person of yours buck rivets, give him a cup of EP420 and a rivet mandrel and get him to dip and fill all the mandrel holes. This is a great thing to do with those drop by visitors also. That's what Howard did with his uninvited guests! He had them fill all his mandrel holes, then buffed them all off smooth with scotchbrite before painting. Most people think his Rebel is solid riveted because of this.

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: LisaFly99@aol.com (LisaFly99@aol.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets

In a message dated 4/22/01 9:04:26 AM Central Daylight Time,
flyinb@kfalls.net (flyinb@kfalls.net) writes:

What about 1/8" flush an rivits?
BRUCE
Check with MAM tech department. I remember asking that question to someone in
tech back in 97, might have been Frances. And they said yes it could be done
with solid rivets. It was made with pulled rivets so Joe Builder wouldn't
need riveting skills.
Making it easier for more people to build.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D

Louis & Kathy Young · Post by **Louis & Kathy Young** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:55 pm

Wayne, for the benefit if the not-ready-for -prime time- builders.... Is EP420 a liquid or a primer or what ? Please detail that process.... ( I have wondered what "spot putty-ing" 18k worth of rivets would be like....! Yowww my aching finger ! )

Also, Darryl told me at S-n-Fun that surfaces should be assembled wet and rivets placed and pulled wet..... Does that negate the ability to polish the airplane ? I assumed that the corrosion inhibiters etched the skins in a permanent way... I would think a few well placed painted stripes and a polish, instead of a all-over paint, would be worth the weight of a radio or two .... These are really not small planes !

Comments ?? Suggestions ?

Louis Young
www.justplanevideos.com

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 11:29 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets

Bruce, I believe it only takes about 3 solid rivets to be as strong in shear as 5 of the Avex/Avdel 1/8" pull rivets, so no reason you couldn't use solids as they would be stronger. Aircraft would also be a bit lighter using solids, as you won't have all those steel mandrels riding along with you. The extra work would be IMMENSE though, to build it with solid rivets, let alone adding to it your wanting to dimple every rivet hole. There are about 18,000+ rivets in the Rebel. Rivet spacing, on just about everything, is 15/16" (and you won't have the ability to increase this spacing due to prepunched pilot holes). I know it's hard to change you solid rivet builders over to these "POP" rivets, but once you build something with them you will have a hard time going back to building RV's!!!! One man operation and smoother skins when the rivets are pulled (vs impacted) into place, make these rivets a dream to work with. If you want the solid rivet look, instead of having that extra person of yours buck rivets, give him a cup of EP420 and a rivet mandrel and get him to dip and fill all the mandrel holes. This is a great thing to do with those drop by visitors also. That's what Howard did with his uninvited guests! He had them fill all his mandrel holes, then buffed them all off smooth with scotchbrite before painting. Most people think his Rebel is solid riveted because of this.

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: LisaFly99@aol.com (LisaFly99@aol.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets

In a message dated 4/22/01 9:04:26 AM Central Daylight Time,
flyinb@kfalls.net (flyinb@kfalls.net) writes:

What about 1/8" flush an rivits?
BRUCE
Check with MAM tech department. I remember asking that question to someone in
tech back in 97, might have been Frances. And they said yes it could be done
with solid rivets. It was made with pulled rivets so Joe Builder wouldn't
need riveting skills.
Making it easier for more people to build.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D

Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:55 pm

It seems to me I read somewhere, that the drag created by the bumps of the
rivet heads on a wing or fuselage would only make a difference if the plane
flies at very high speeds, where laminar flow starts to become a factor. A
problem the Rebel doesn't have. So solid rivets would only be a cosmetic
thing, and a lot of extra work!

Bruce G

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Flyin B Ranch · Post by **Flyin B Ranch** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:55 pm

Like ya say, It would be a lot more work for sure. You can get a real smooth skin by Back Riviting method but is also a bit slower. As the holes are already layed out and punched heck one more operation to dimple would be no problem. Just kinda kicking the idea of solid rivits around to add that Personal touch. I may end up using pop rivits anyway but I dont get that many guests out where we are so if i make the ones that do come out fill the rivits I wont ever see anyone anymore Hehe. The last set of RV wings took me about 150 hrs to build including tanks.

Bruce

Bruce, I believe it only takes about 3 solid rivets to be as strong in shear as 5 of the Avex/Avdel 1/8" pull rivets, so no reason you couldn't use solids as they would be stronger. Aircraft would also be a bit lighter using solids, as you won't have all those steel mandrels riding along with you. The extra work would be IMMENSE though, to build it with solid rivets, let alone adding to it your wanting to dimple every rivet hole. There are about 18,000+ rivets in the Rebel. Rivet spacing, on just about everything, is 15/16" (and you won't have the ability to increase this spacing due to prepunched pilot holes). I know it's hard to change you solid rivet builders over to these "POP" rivets, but once you build something with them you will have a hard time going back to building RV's!!!! One man operation and smoother skins when the rivets are pulled (vs impacted) into place, make these rivets a dream to work with. If you want the solid rivet look, instead of having that extra person of yours buck rivets, give him a cup of EP420 and a rivet mandrel and get him to dip and fill all the mandrel holes. This is a great thing to do with those drop by visitors also. That's what Howard did with his uninvited guests! He had them fill all his mandrel holes, then buffed them all off smooth with scotchbrite before painting. Most people think his Rebel is solid riveted because of this.

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

Mike Kimball · Post by **Mike Kimball** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

No question. A rivet squeezer with a deep throat is the way to go. Rob
used one on his and all of his rivet heads look perfect. I bucked mine and
there are plenty of smiley faces on my spar. If you do buck them, make sure
you get a BIG bucking bar. I think most of the problems I had were because
my bucking bar was too light for the long 3/16 rivets.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Jim
Cole
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 8:38 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets

We are just about to get into the solid rivet part of the wing spars and was
wondering what everyone's opinion was on the right tool for the job? Some
have
suggested farming it out - others a rivet squeezer - and still others the
bucking bar etc.

Is there one brand of rivet squeezer that brings good value. One we looked
at
in the ATSC catalogue was $290US.

Does anyone have one they want to sell because they are finished or a source
for used equipment?

Thanks

Jim
083 SR/Moose

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Al & Deb Paxhia · Post by **Al & Deb Paxhia** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

A squeezer is best. We used a C-frame tool from Avery Tool, and a #4 hammer.
Cost about $100, spars turned out great. The C-frame gets everything lined
up and then two or three bangs and the rivet is formed. Practice first
because three bangs is all you get before the rivet has work hardened. They
also sell a gage for checking the shop head to ensure the proper forming.
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cole" <jcole@rangroup.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets

We are just about to get into the solid rivet part of the wing spars and

was

wondering what everyone's opinion was on the right tool for the job? Some

have

suggested farming it out - others a rivet squeezer - and still others the
bucking bar etc.

Is there one brand of rivet squeezer that brings good value. One we looked

at

in the ATSC catalogue was $290US.

Does anyone have one they want to sell because they are finished or a

source

for used equipment?

Thanks

Jim
083 SR/Moose

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Jim Cole · Post by **Jim Cole** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

We are just about to get into the solid rivet part of the wing spars and was
wondering what everyone's opinion was on the right tool for the job? Some have
suggested farming it out - others a rivet squeezer - and still others the
bucking bar etc.

Is there one brand of rivet squeezer that brings good value. One we looked at
in the ATSC catalogue was $290US.

Does anyone have one they want to sell because they are finished or a source
for used equipment?

Thanks

Jim
083 SR/Moose

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

Here is a link to the rivetting tool Mike Kimball mentioned that Rob used...
this is also what I plan on using.

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detai ... p?PageNo=1

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cole" <jcole@rangroup.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets

We are just about to get into the solid rivet part of the wing spars and

was

wondering what everyone's opinion was on the right tool for the job? Some

have

suggested farming it out - others a rivet squeezer - and still others the
bucking bar etc.

Is there one brand of rivet squeezer that brings good value. One we looked

at

in the ATSC catalogue was $290US.

Does anyone have one they want to sell because they are finished or a

source

for used equipment?

Thanks

Jim
083 SR/Moose

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

rickhm · Post by **rickhm** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

I agree with Mike here on big bucking bar. I did all mine by myself so it was a challenge. I used long #8 screws to hold the assembly together. I then placed it flat on a large piece of steal. On top of the steal I placed a big bucking bar, another big piece of steal. What is unusual about how I went about it was I drilled a hole in the bucking bar and inserted the piece that usually goes in a rivet squeezer. I then bucked from the reverse side. This worked well because there was little tendency for the parts to move around.

Good luck!

Rick Muller
SR70

P.S. While your buying bucking bars, also get a good $20 set of ear muffs!
-------Original Message-------
From: Mike Kimball <mkimball@gci.net>
Sent: 06/11/03 02:11 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Solid Rivets

No question. A rivet squeezer with a deep throat is the way to go. Rob

used one on his and all of his rivet heads look perfect. I bucked mine
and
there are plenty of smiley faces on my spar. If you do buck them, make
sure
you get a BIG bucking bar. I think most of the problems I had were
because
my bucking bar was too light for the long 3/16 rivets.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Jim
Cole
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 8:38 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets

We are just about to get into the solid rivet part of the wing spars and
was
wondering what everyone's opinion was on the right tool for the job? Some
have
suggested farming it out - others a rivet squeezer - and still others the
bucking bar etc.

Is there one brand of rivet squeezer that brings good value. One we looked
at
in the ATSC catalogue was $290US.

Does anyone have one they want to sell because they are finished or a
source
for used equipment?

Thanks

Jim
083
SR/Moose

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail
mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail
mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

rbesecker · Post by **rbesecker** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

I used the Avery C-Frame tool also--worked fine. I bolted it up and used a 4
pound Harbor Freight brass hammer. When you're finished, you'll look like
Popeye and be ready to arm wrestle anyone.

Ask around, somebody's bound to have one that you can borrow.

Rick Besecker

Close to skinning my wings.

SR2500 178SR-1

"Jim Cole" <jcole@rangroup.com> wrote in message
news:3EE75AE3.E178442B@rangroup.com...

We are just about to get into the solid rivet part of the wing spars and

was

wondering what everyone's opinion was on the right tool for the job? Some

have

suggested farming it out - others a rivet squeezer - and still others the
bucking bar etc.

Is there one brand of rivet squeezer that brings good value. One we looked

at

in the ATSC catalogue was $290US.

Does anyone have one they want to sell because they are finished or a

source

for used equipment?

Thanks

Jim
083 SR/Moose

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

LisaFly99 · Post by **LisaFly99** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

In a message dated 6/11/03 11:39:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
jcole@rangroup.com writes:

Is there one brand of rivet squeezer that brings good value. One we looked
at
in the ATSC catalogue was $290US.

Does anyone have one they want to sell because they are finished or a source
for used equipment?

JIM
Check eBay there's always some rivet squeezers for sale there. And if you
need a rivet gauge shoot me you're address and I'll send you one. I have a
hundred of them.
Phil&Lisa Smith
#460R
N414D

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

Jim, we did Rob Helt's (the one I own now) with a 3X gun (set at about 55psi
if I remember right) and about a 3 lb bucking bar. Rob held the bar for the
whole "ordeal" and I ran the gun. A few rivets weren't pretty (drilled out
and replaced afterwards), but the other 99% turned out great. Make sure you
write the rivet lengths on the spar for a no thought process while you are
heavy into the riveting and have the doublers all held together with bolts
before you start banging away!! ALSO...make sure while you are drilling the
multiple holes and rib holes that you don't use cleco's to hold things
aligned!!! You >MUST< use bolts or things will move enough that you won't
get those nice round rivets in, expecially through 5 or 6 layers of .063! I
am lucky enough that I have thousands of AN3 bolts in bulk (and if you want
to fly up and get a few handfuls I'll make you a deal you can't refuse!!)

Don't forget the Proseal between the doublers and the spar as far out as the
tanks are going on your build (as I mentioned on Sat) before you start
riveting. You can do it later over the top of everything if you put all the
rivet heads on the back side of the spar, but nice to guarantee that fuel
can't migrate between the doubler layers as it tries to escape the tank! You
should put the rivets in with heads in the tank no matter what for ease of
spreading proseal while sealing the corners etc.

I just went out to the shop and looked back in the work logs. It took us 4
hours to do the first wing spar and all the doublers and then 3 hours to do
the second one! Before starting I mixed 13 tbl spoons of EP430 + 6 1/2
catalyst and 100 Grams + 10gms activator for Proseal. I have no mention of
mixing more Epoxy when starting the second spar, but did mix 100 + 10 more
Proseal for the second spars assembly.

Cheers,
Wayne O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
oifa@irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cole" <jcole@rangroup.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets

We are just about to get into the solid rivet part of the wing spars and

was

wondering what everyone's opinion was on the right tool for the job? Some

have

suggested farming it out - others a rivet squeezer - and still others the
bucking bar etc.

Is there one brand of rivet squeezer that brings good value. One we looked

at

in the ATSC catalogue was $290US.

Does anyone have one they want to sell because they are finished or a

source

for used equipment?

Thanks

Jim
083 SR/Moose

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

ravc1 · Post by **ravc1** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:23 pm

Much discussion recently occurred on this topic but I do not recall if anyone,
of their own accord, decided to build any MAM kit w/solid rivets and then
proceeded to do so.

Rick

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Mike Rapoport · Post by **Mike Rapoport** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:23 pm

I have been trying to use solid rivets where possible. I haven't gone to
the length of fabricating special bucking bars or putting in additional
access panels to facilitate bucking although I might do this on the wings.
One of the difficulties in solid riveting an airleron or other small part is
that the skin wraps around instead of both top and bottom meeting at the
trailing edge. You don't want to warp the part as you are riveting it. It
is also really easy to screw up some of the thinner skinned parts,
particularly if you can't get a big bucking bar behind them. The solid
riveting that I have done of the fusilage looks pretty good which I
attribute to the thicker skins and better access.. Solid riveting is much
slower than Avex riveting for a one man operation (particularly if you are
new to solid riveting like me) but I expect to save some time by not having
to fill the holes on a million Avex rivets. Some parts, like doors, do not
lend themselves to solid riveting unless you are willing to go to the length
of drilling through both sides of the tubes and then enlarging the back side
to get something in there to buck the rivets. The alterative is to redesign
the part to accomodate solid rivets. To really make things look good the
parts with thinner skins should probably be riveted with 3/32" rivets at
much tighter spacing to avoid distortion. I'm learning a lot every time I
work on the Moose and I already have two airplanes to fly so it doesn't
matter how long it takes.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: <ravc1@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 5:27 PM
Subject: Solid Rivets

Much discussion recently occurred on this topic but I do not recall if
anyone,
of their own accord, decided to build any MAM kit w/solid rivets and then
proceeded to do so.

Rick

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------