The Murphy Builders Site

I'm about to rivet the roof to the cabin. My instructions indicate I should trim the
trailing edge to 5/16 from the rivet line but mentions nothing about trimming the
sides. I have 2" sticking over each side

Wray The cabin roof is flush with sides. BTW thanks for the site.
Drew

At 08:52 PM 4/12/01 -0700, you wrote:

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I'm about to rivet the roof to the cabin. My instructions indicate I

should trim the

trailing edge to 5/16 from the rivet line but mentions nothing about

trimming the

sides. I have 2" sticking over each side

Thanks Drew

Wray
Yes cut the skylights before rivetting and note the aft ones are NOT
symmetrical due to the aileron linkage.
I put all 8 in but I am going to blank the two that are in the third row
back from the front. Now that I've positioned the seats I realize that
they will just annoy me with the sun coming through them and won't
really add much visibility.
Ken

wrayt wrote:

Thanks Drew I'll trim them today. Just had another thought I would like to put
in some skylights and had planned on doing it after the roof was in place.
Perhaps it's easier before hand?. Also those that have been using skylights for
a while what are your thoughts now on how many and in what locations? TNX!
...Wray

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Ken the blurb I have on skylights doesn't actually give the dimensions. It gives the
location of the doublers

Wray
I think the skylight doublers are now offered as an option. The photo on
MAM's site made me think they were flanged (joggled) to retain the lexan
without drilling the lexan???? I did not use them as I already had mine
cut. I was going to use the lexan that MAM supplied but comments on the
list convinced me to go with plexiglass for it's longer life. THe tinted
plexiglass does not seem to be available in anything less than 1/8". I
have seen airplanes with flat homemade doublers as well. And ones with
no doubler. I was planning to make some straight flanged (joggled)
strips and use one strip on each side of each window to retain it and
stiffen the skin. Will likely use 0.025" or 0.032" material.

Ken

wrayt wrote:

Ken the blurb I have on skylights doesn't actually give the dimensions. It gives the
location of the doublers ...is this a kit from Murphy? Do you know the actual hole
locations and size? Is there anything special about the doublers? Are they just flat?
one piece? inside and out? What thickness should they be. And what thickness
plexiglass or ?
Perhaps this has all been discussed and is in the archives?

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My skylight holes.
In case anyone else is interested, after several chats with Ken I plan on installing 1/8"
plexiglas from the inside probably at least 1/2" larger all around than the holes and
imbedded in a thin layer of caulking and held by a bezel on the inside. Probably riveted.
The following is the arbitrary size, shape and location of the holes I cut in the roof.
(please don't tell me they're too big or in the wrong spot):-) I used a 2 1/4" diameter
hole saw for the corner radius (because that's what I had)

(matching pairs left and right)

I left 5/8" of the roof skin sticking out beyond the fuse rib so that I
could add nurplates for attaching the wing root fairing.
Bye,
Rick D.






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Good idea

Wray You might consider 3/16 plexi if you haven't bought yet my roof oil
cans a lot and heavier material would stiffen it and probably cut down on a
lot of noise. If you rivet through the plexi into the bezel make sure you
ream the holes in the plexi well oversize so the expanded rivets don't
crack it.
Drew

My skylight holes.
In case anyone else is interested, after several chats with Ken I plan on

installing 1/8"

plexiglas from the inside probably at least 1/2" larger all around than

the holes and

imbedded in a thin layer of caulking and held by a bezel on the inside.

Probably riveted.

The following is the arbitrary size, shape and location of the holes I cut

in the roof.

(please don't tell me they're too big or in the wrong spot):-) I used a 2

1/4" diameter

hole saw for the corner radius (because that's what I had)

(matching pairs left and right)

Thanks Drew. No I haven't got the plexiglas yet so I will look for 3/16. I
haven't decided yet whether to go through the Plexiglas or just the bezel
around the outer edge but will make sure there is room for expansion. TNX!

Drew and Jan wrote:

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Wray, most people aren't/weren't in this predicament anyhow, as the 48" wide
cabin roofs some of you have are just shipping/manufacturing errors
anyhow!!! Anyone else that has these, trim it before you start to do the
roof (to 44" wide it should have been shipped as) to help keep the cabin
straight while building. It is a lot easier to tape down the cabin roof
square (and tight), when it is the same width as the bulkhead/Fus-27 width.
Sounds like Rick made good use of the extra width for fairing nutplates,
although I don't recommend screwing the fairings on both sides (wing and
cabin)

With the wing root fairings, I recommend that you only screw them to the
wing root. You may need one screw in the cabin roof where the fairing
transitions to the gap filler box, near the trailing edge to hold it down,
but that should be it. No need to screw both sides as the fairing will sit
nice and tight to the cabin roof, IF pulled and screwed nice and tight to
the wing root. Sometimes a rubber edge is needed to keep it from chafing
into the cabin roof if you don't get it quite tight enough though. Screws in
the cabin only create leaks in the cabin. The main BIG reason that I don't
recommend screwing the fairings to both sides is (that when God forbid you
have an accident) if the fairing is screwed to both sides and a wing hits
the ground, it will buckle the cabin roof because the load induced will get
transfered through the fairing. If only screwed at the wing, it will not do
as much damage to the cabin section! This is not theory, I have seen it
tooooooo many times now!

Take care,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "wrayt" <wrayt@sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 11:03 PM
Subject: Re: Cabin roof


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Good idea ...unfortunately it's too late now.

Rick DeCiero wrote:

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I left 5/8" of the roof skin sticking out beyond the fuse rib so that I
could add nurplates for attaching the wing root fairing.
Bye,
Rick D.

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--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://wrayt.tripod.com/
My ICQ number is 29764664

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Thanks Wayne. It would have been easier to hold the roof down for sure if I'd
trimmed it before. Not knowing at the time I used a couple of big straps front
to back, tied down almost at the far end of the table to hold things in place
while I drilled and cleco'd