The Murphy Builders Site

In ref. to Bill N,s cowl construction, that is exactly where I am at this
point. I am using a total of (8) hinges for four doors. I will bring
pictures Sunday. I am not sure how to post to web and have not really wanted
to interfere with my building time. If you need more info sooner let me
know. Bob J Rebel "652"




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Subject: Sound deadening Installation

A question for Curt or anyone with the Aircraft Spruce sound deadening
material in the cockpit:

I am installing this material 1 in thick on the firewall and was going
to instal it with the smooth side to the firewall, (pore side to the
cabin). But I noticed on Curt's plane on Sunday that it is installed
with the smooth side to the cabin.

Any reason for either? or is it dealers choice/

Thanks, Phil, R302.



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Hi Phil,
Nice to see you again at the meeting. I just thought the material looked
better with the smooth side towards the cockpit. It's attached with just a
couple of large flat washers and good 3m spray adhesive. It has managed to
stay in place inspite of a leaky brake resevoir. The leak was caused by a
crack in the bottom of the attach tube and the first attempt to seal it
didn't work. I replaced it with one i fabricated from an old metal polish can
and some an fittings. looks good and dosn't leak.
I"m headed for the work shop now to install the spreader bars. The Shop
sure looks empty with the build bench gone! Curt N97MR

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Tried to send the following message to the bul. board but it was returned as
"not a member". ???? Any suggestions?

RE: SR Batt cable:

FWIW, I installed the battery, batt. relay, external power recept. and ran
"00" cable from behind the baggage compt. bulkhead, under the floor, through
gromets (supported by clamps and ties between bulkheads) forward and through
the firewall. I have a number of inspection openings in the floor so that
the cable could be replaced if ever necessary. I was advised by a number of
A & P's that 00 cable (though large, heavy and expensive) would be a wise
choice given the distance and voltage drop. In fact I removed a lighter
cable and replaced it with 00. I also ran a #18 "hot batt." fused wire to
the back side of the panel for an electric clock or courtesy lights.

Charlie Starr

Cynthia & Charlie Starr
gone fly'n



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Remember with this new system, if you're a member
of the "Digest" list, you have to send your
messages to "murphy-rebel-d@dcsol.com", that is
the digest list... you are not members of "murphy-
rebel@dcsol.com". Everybody still gets your
message, but the only way I can get this system
to allow both digest and normal subscriptions is
to run 2 separate lists and just link them to the
same message base.

Mike

Tried to send the following message to the bul.

board but it was returned as

"not a member". ???? Any suggestions?

RE: SR Batt cable:

FWIW, I installed the battery, batt. relay,

external power recept. and ran



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'murphy-rebel-d Digest' wrote:
====
- *-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
- The list archives are located at:
- http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
- username: rebel password: builder
- *-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
- Digest of list: murphy-rebel-d Total messages in digest: 5
-
- 1 Date : Sun, 8 Jul 2001 08:44:27 EDT
- From : lisafly99@aol.com
- Subject: Re: Rebel doors
-
- ...'

Take a look to the attachment.

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Tried to look at it - just a tiny bit of gobbledegook.

Try GIF or JPG formats .....

.....bobp

-----------------------------------------orig.-------------------
At 07:00 AM 7/18/01 -0700, you wrote:

'murphy-rebel-d Digest' wrote:
====
- *-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
- The list archives are located at:
- http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
- username: rebel password: builder
- *-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
- Digest of list: murphy-rebel-d Total messages in digest: 5
-
- 1 Date : Sun, 8 Jul 2001 08:44:27 EDT
- From : lisafly99@aol.com
- Subject: Re: Rebel doors
-
- ...'

Take a look to the attachment.

Attachment Converted: C:\IRAMPPPP\EUDORA\s3msongM.pif

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Norton,s calls it a virus

Keith Oliver
Elite #654 TD
N654ME (reserved)
West Gardiner, Maine




-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bob Patterson
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 4:10 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: DIGEST - murphy-rebel-d


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Tried to look at it - just a tiny bit of gobbledegook.

Try GIF or JPG formats .....

.....bobp

-----------------------------------------orig.-------------------
At 07:00 AM 7/18/01 -0700, you wrote:

'murphy-rebel-d Digest' wrote:
====
-

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

- The list archives are located at:
- http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
- username: rebel password: builder
-

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

- Digest of list: murphy-rebel-d Total messages in digest: 5
-
- 1 Date : Sun, 8 Jul 2001 08:44:27 EDT
- From : lisafly99@aol.com
- Subject: Re: Rebel doors
-
- ...'

Take a look to the attachment.

Attachment Converted: C:\IRAMPPPP\EUDORA\s3msongM.pif

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Hi everyone.
Fuselage is done up to the firewall on s/n 374. I had some time off so I pulled everything out of the interior and primed it. That's going to be the finish for the interior; it's a utility airplane right? . Reinstalled everything back in and it feels good
to know that a lot of it doesn't have to come back out again!
While putting everything in place I noticed that the control horns that attach to the control tubes will hit the aft spar when either control tube between them and the mixing unit are in the most upper position. Has anyone else come across this and if so wha
t's an appropriate fix? Shift the hanger inboard or shorten the control rods?
Hopefully starting the tail mods this weekend.
Paul Michel
Rebel #374





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How come I keep running across people priming the interior? It is a utility
plane. Why not bare metal?

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
PMi4218393@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 9:29 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: DIGEST - murphy-rebel-d


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Hi everyone.
Fuselage is done up to the firewall on s/n 374. I had some time off so I
pulled everything out of the interior and primed it. That's going to be the
finish for the interior; it's a utility airplane right? . Reinstalled
everything back in and it feels good

to know that a lot of it doesn't have to come back out again!
While putting everything in place I noticed that the control horns that
attach to the control tubes will hit the aft spar when either control tube
between them and the mixing unit are in the most upper position. Has anyone
else come across this and if so wha

t's an appropriate fix? Shift the hanger inboard or shorten the control
rods?
Hopefully starting the tail mods this weekend.
Paul Michel
Rebel #374


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Because my wife won't let me leave it bare.

Scott Hibbs
hibbs@pacifier.com

On 10/11/2001 11:41 AM, AGT@MOSQUITONET.COM wrote to MURPHY-REBEL:

-> How come I keep running across people priming the interior? It is a utility
-> plane. Why not bare metal?
->
-> Mike




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In a message dated 10/11/01 2:45:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
murphy-rebel-d@dcsol.com writes:

<< RE: DIGEST - murphy-rebel-d >>
Mike:
The last thing most of us want to do is drag the extra weight of excess paint
around.
In So. Florida corrosion protection of some type is required unless you want
to start chasing corrosion before the plane even flys. I chose to paint a
flat finish on the interior for corrosion protection. No frills, just flat
primer!
Few alternatives if you intend to be around salt water at all.
Paul



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Yeah, salt water will even find it's way behind the alclad won't it.

Mike
SR#044

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
PMi4218393@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 4:55 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: DIGEST - murphy-rebel-d


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In a message dated 10/11/01 2:45:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
murphy-rebel-d@dcsol.com writes:

<< RE: DIGEST - murphy-rebel-d >>
Mike:
The last thing most of us want to do is drag the extra weight of excess
paint
around.
In So. Florida corrosion protection of some type is required unless you want
to start chasing corrosion before the plane even flys. I chose to paint a
flat finish on the interior for corrosion protection. No frills, just flat
primer!
Few alternatives if you intend to be around salt water at all.
Paul
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In a message dated 10/12/01 11:07:52 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
murphy-rebel-d@dcsol.com writes:

<< Subject: Interior primer >>
Terry:
I used some military leftovers that were given to me. They were out of date
and cans had started to congeal on the top. No manufacturer on the can, just
a mil spec, scant directions and it was designated an epoxy polymide primer.
Smelled and handled like the two part epoxy by Polyfiber. As a matter of
fact the overspray from the last coat (Polyfiber) blended in very well with
the mil spec stuff. Only difference was the Polyfiber was a very bright
white. Mil spec stuff was really dull yucky off yellow whitish stuff.
I talked to an old mechanic that used to work for Chalks, (they operate
amphibs out to the Islands from Florida) and he was totally sold on the two
part epoxies. His criteria for a quality primer was pretty basic. He said
to try to take it off after it has cured fully. I tried several different
paints and primers and the epoxies are definitely superior in my book. Gave
a few samples the old tidal dunk test on the dock, in brackish water in new
Jersey for a couple months. Epoxy won again. I'm sold on it.
Paul



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Hi Mike K.

There is no salt water in Ontario but it can be humid and condensation
from daily temperature variations often causes condensation on metal
when in an unheated hangar or outside. I have found that I get traces of
white surface corrosion within about two years on the 6061. I also
noticed that it takes a serious scotch brite rub to remove it.

It seems that any water that finds its way into an airplane also likes
to condense on the inside surfaces overnight.

Anyway even a very very thin streaky coat of highly thinned leftover
primer seems to stop the corrosion. Once it hardens for a month or two
it also seems somewhat effective at preventing scratches from tools and
crawling around inside the fuselage.

Ken

How come I keep running across people priming the interior? It is a utility
plane. Why not bare metal?

Mike

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