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Fuel and electrical routing
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:47 pm
by AGT
I was thinking about routing my fuel, strobe, nav light, and heated pitot
tube lines/wires towards the leading edge of the wing between the wing and
fuselage and entering the cockpit there. Everything would travel along the
section next to the edge of the windshield. The strobe power supply would
be mounted behind the panel somewhere. Everything would be covered with a
metal cover I would fabricate and screw into place. Any reason why this is
a bad idea?
Mike
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Fuel and electrical routing
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:47 pm
by LisaFly99
In a message dated 3/7/01 2:34:21 PM Central Standard Time,
agt@mosquitonet.com writes:
Everything would be covered with a
metal cover I would fabricate and screw into place. Any reason why this is
a bad idea?
Mike
MIKE
That's basically what I did. Except I ran my pitot lines in a separate
conduit in case I had to replace them in the future or add a heated pitot.
The strobe power pack I think I might want a little farther away from my
radios.
Phil&Lisa Smith N414D
Fuel and electrical routing
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:47 pm
by AGT
I was wondering about that (mounting the strobe power pack too close to the radios). I'm not surprised the first response to my query mentioned this concern. I think you are right. I'm going to find a home for it in the back somewhere. The strobe power pack puts out so much voltage when it fires, maybe if I mount it close to the battery it will help keep the battery charged up :-).
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel and electrical routing
In a message dated 3/7/01 2:34:21 PM Central Standard Time,
agt@mosquitonet.com writes:
Everything would be covered with a
metal cover I would fabricate and screw into place. Any reason why this is
a bad idea?
Mike
MIKE
That's basically what I did. Except I ran my pitot lines in a separate
conduit in case I had to replace them in the future or add a heated pitot.
The strobe power pack I think I might want a little farther away from my
radios.
Phil&Lisa Smith N414D
Fuel and electrical routing
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:47 pm
by Rick and Cathy Ford
Mike
The high voltage lines become an antenna for noise.
The short the high voltage lines the better.
I thought of using the same system, but didn't.
If I was to use your system, I would use the 2 power supply system and put each power supply in the wing tips.
That keeps the high voltage lines short.
If you already have you light system, make sure you use shielded wire and ground the shield at one end only (at the light end - the tip of the high voltage antenna. That's where all the bounce-back occurs)
The bounce back of electrical energy is like producing a wave and watching it bounce off a wall and coming back to you.
You get a series of very high waves and low troughs and sometimes you get null points. It is very random and unpredictable.
The secret is - if you can have the waves absorbed at the end, then you won't get extra noise.
Good Luck Mike.
Rick Ford
----- Original Message -----
From: AGT (
agt@mosquitonet.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 4:09 PM
Subject: RE: Fuel and electrical routing
I was wondering about that (mounting the strobe power pack too close to the radios). I'm not surprised the first response to my query mentioned this concern. I think you are right. I'm going to find a home for it in the back somewhere. The strobe power pack puts out so much voltage when it fires, maybe if I mount it close to the battery it will help keep the battery charged up :-).
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel and electrical routing
In a message dated 3/7/01 2:34:21 PM Central Standard Time,
agt@mosquitonet.com writes:
Everything would be covered with a
metal cover I would fabricate and screw into place. Any reason why this is
a bad idea?
Mike
MIKE
That's basically what I did. Except I ran my pitot lines in a separate
conduit in case I had to replace them in the future or add a heated pitot.
The strobe power pack I think I might want a little farther away from my
radios.
Phil&Lisa Smith N414D
Fuel and electrical routing
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:47 pm
by AGT
The only wrench that might be thrown into this is that I am planning on using Bob Archer's COMM and NAV antennas that are intended to be mounted inside the wing tips. I'll have to check the shielding on the wire I used for the strobe lights. The strobe wiring I used is what Whelen supplies for their installation kit. I also used RG-8 (I think) coax for the antennas. I got that stuff at Radio Shack and it was advertised as "better" or "high quality, low loss" wire as compared to the usual hardware store RG-58. I could pretty easily switch the coax to RG-142 which is even better since it's outside diameter is probably half what RG-58 or RG-8 is, but it would be a pain and would be expensive. In any case, since I am planning on putting my antennas in the wingtip, it would probably be better to mount the stobe power supply elsewhere. There will still be a high voltage pulse at the strobe itself, and running down the wire, which may cause me trouble with the antenna, but when I asked Bob Archer about that he said the antennas were designed to work with a wingtip mounted strobe. Don't know how he keeps the noise out but that's what he said. Also, when I ran the strobe and antenna wires down the wings, I kept them separated by about 6 inches. I knew I shouldn't bundle them together. The wires aren't in a metal conduit, which would serve as shielding itself. There's been plenty of discussion on the list about why a metal conduit might not be the best idea. I just passed the wires through rubber grommets in each wing rib. Probably would rather have plastic conduit instead, in hindsight, but it's too late now. Incidentally, the wires for NAV lights, landing lights, and the heated pitot tube are bundled with the strobe wire. The antenna coax is by itself.
Mike Kimball
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Rick and Cathy Ford
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel and electrical routing
Mike
The high voltage lines become an antenna for noise.
The short the high voltage lines the better.
I thought of using the same system, but didn't.
If I was to use your system, I would use the 2 power supply system and put each power supply in the wing tips.
That keeps the high voltage lines short.
If you already have you light system, make sure you use shielded wire and ground the shield at one end only (at the light end - the tip of the high voltage antenna. That's where all the bounce-back occurs)
The bounce back of electrical energy is like producing a wave and watching it bounce off a wall and coming back to you.
You get a series of very high waves and low troughs and sometimes you get null points. It is very random and unpredictable.
The secret is - if you can have the waves absorbed at the end, then you won't get extra noise.
Good Luck Mike.
Rick Ford
----- Original Message -----
From: AGT (
agt@mosquitonet.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 4:09 PM
Subject: RE: Fuel and electrical routing
I was wondering about that (mounting the strobe power pack too close to the radios). I'm not surprised the first response to my query mentioned this concern. I think you are right. I'm going to find a home for it in the back somewhere. The strobe power pack puts out so much voltage when it fires, maybe if I mount it close to the battery it will help keep the battery charged up :-).
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel and electrical routing
In a message dated 3/7/01 2:34:21 PM Central Standard Time,
agt@mosquitonet.com writes:
MIKE
That's basically what I did. Except I ran my pitot lines in a separate
conduit in case I had to replace them in the future or add a heated pitot.
The strobe power pack I think I might want a little farther away from my
radios.
Phil&Lisa Smith N414D
Fuel and electrical routing
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:47 pm
by Rick and Cathy Ford
Looks like you got it all together Mike.
There comes a time where you just gotta say - That's it. I've done what I thought was right and if not, too bad.
I've got 1 self-contained strobe in the tail, just ahead of the dorsal fin, & I'm picking up a whine from it. Looks like I gotta re-visit my wiring.
Oh well.
Good luck Mike.
Rick Ford
----- Original Message -----
From: AGT (
agt@mosquitonet.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: RE: Fuel and electrical routing
The only wrench that might be thrown into this is that I am planning on using Bob Archer's COMM and NAV antennas that are intended to be mounted inside the wing tips. I'll have to check the shielding on the wire I used for the strobe lights. The strobe wiring I used is what Whelen supplies for their installation kit. I also used RG-8 (I think) coax for the antennas. I got that stuff at Radio Shack and it was advertised as "better" or "high quality, low loss" wire as compared to the usual hardware store RG-58. I could pretty easily switch the coax to RG-142 which is even better since it's outside diameter is probably half what RG-58 or RG-8 is, but it would be a pain and would be expensive. In any case, since I am planning on putting my antennas in the wingtip, it would probably be better to mount the stobe power supply elsewhere. There will still be a high voltage pulse at the strobe itself, and running down the wire, which may cause me trouble with the antenna, but when I asked Bob Archer about that he said the antennas were designed to work with a wingtip mounted strobe. Don't know how he keeps the noise out but that's what he said. Also, when I ran the strobe and antenna wires down the wings, I kept them separated by about 6 inches. I knew I shouldn't bundle them together. The wires aren't in a metal conduit, which would serve as shielding itself. There's been plenty of discussion on the list about why a metal conduit might not be the best idea. I just passed the wires through rubber grommets in each wing rib. Probably would rather have plastic conduit instead, in hindsight, but it's too late now. Incidentally, the wires for NAV lights, landing lights, and the heated pitot tube are bundled with the strobe wire. The antenna coax is by itself.
Mike Kimball
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Rick and Cathy Ford
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel and electrical routing
Mike
The high voltage lines become an antenna for noise.
The short the high voltage lines the better.
I thought of using the same system, but didn't.
If I was to use your system, I would use the 2 power supply system and put each power supply in the wing tips.
That keeps the high voltage lines short.
If you already have you light system, make sure you use shielded wire and ground the shield at one end only (at the light end - the tip of the high voltage antenna. That's where all the bounce-back occurs)
The bounce back of electrical energy is like producing a wave and watching it bounce off a wall and coming back to you.
You get a series of very high waves and low troughs and sometimes you get null points. It is very random and unpredictable.
The secret is - if you can have the waves absorbed at the end, then you won't get extra noise.
Good Luck Mike.
Rick Ford
----- Original Message -----
From: AGT (
agt@mosquitonet.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 4:09 PM
Subject: RE: Fuel and electrical routing
I was wondering about that (mounting the strobe power pack too close to the radios). I'm not surprised the first response to my query mentioned this concern. I think you are right. I'm going to find a home for it in the back somewhere. The strobe power pack puts out so much voltage when it fires, maybe if I mount it close to the battery it will help keep the battery charged up :-).
Fuel and electrical routing
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:47 pm
by AGT
I had a Piper Arrow and later a Cherokee 180 with a strobe in the tail and it always whined through the radio too. The spam can manufacturers don't do any better with this problem.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick and Cathy Ford (
rc.ford@home.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel and electrical routing
Looks like you got it all together Mike.
There comes a time where you just gotta say - That's it. I've done what I thought was right and if not, too bad.
I've got 1 self-contained strobe in the tail, just ahead of the dorsal fin, & I'm picking up a whine from it. Looks like I gotta re-visit my wiring.
Oh well.
Good luck Mike.
Rick Ford
----- Original Message -----
From: AGT (
agt@mosquitonet.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: RE: Fuel and electrical routing
The only wrench that might be thrown into this is that I am planning on using Bob Archer's COMM and NAV antennas that are intended to be mounted inside the wing tips. I'll have to check the shielding on the wire I used for the strobe lights. The strobe wiring I used is what Whelen supplies for their installation kit. I also used RG-8 (I think) coax for the antennas. I got that stuff at Radio Shack and it was advertised as "better" or "high quality, low loss" wire as compared to the usual hardware store RG-58. I could pretty easily switch the coax to RG-142 which is even better since it's outside diameter is probably half what RG-58 or RG-8 is, but it would be a pain and would be expensive. In any case, since I am planning on putting my antennas in the wingtip, it would probably be better to mount the stobe power supply elsewhere. There will still be a high voltage pulse at the strobe itself, and running down the wire, which may cause me trouble with the antenna, but when I asked Bob Archer about that he said the antennas were designed to work with a wingtip mounted strobe. Don't know how he keeps the noise out but that's what he said. Also, when I ran the strobe and antenna wires down the wings, I kept them separated by about 6 inches. I knew I shouldn't bundle them together. The wires aren't in a metal conduit, which would serve as shielding itself. There's been plenty of discussion on the list about why a metal conduit might not be the best idea. I just passed the wires through rubber grommets in each wing rib. Probably would rather have plastic conduit instead, in hindsight, but it's too late now. Incidentally, the wires for NAV lights, landing lights, and the heated pitot tube are bundled with the strobe wire. The antenna coax is by itself.
Mike Kimball
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Rick and Cathy Ford
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel and electrical routing
Mike
The high voltage lines become an antenna for noise.
The short the high voltage lines the better.
I thought of using the same system, but didn't.
If I was to use your system, I would use the 2 power supply system and put each power supply in the wing tips.
That keeps the high voltage lines short.
If you already have you light system, make sure you use shielded wire and ground the shield at one end only (at the light end - the tip of the high voltage antenna. That's where all the bounce-back occurs)
The bounce back of electrical energy is like producing a wave and watching it bounce off a wall and coming back to you.
You get a series of very high waves and low troughs and sometimes you get null points. It is very random and unpredictable.
The secret is - if you can have the waves absorbed at the end, then you won't get extra noise.
Good Luck Mike.
Rick Ford