The Murphy Builders Site

You are right, and I'm one of the worst offenders. I really appreciate the
advice, then do something, or not, but rarely report back.

So, here goes...

Several weeks ago I solicited advice on Tannis heaters, hot air blowers,
timers for same, etc.

I considered all the wide ranging advice and ended up pre-heating with the
previously installed Tannis and a slightly modified hot air blower heater
that now fits directly into the cooling openings in the front of the cowl.
I only do it when actually there, no timers, and have a fire-extinguisher
handy. I saw some examples of blowers that fit in from below and behind
(cooling exit) but decided to avoid due to the possibility of gas dripping
from gascolator down onto element. Its a longshot but it sure would spoil
your day.
This system is effective but slow. But I tell myself its best to let
everything heat up gradually to ensure even heat distribution before
firing it up. Besides, there is always an hour or two of tidying and/or
chores to do to use up the time.

Next, I was asking about pumpouts for the float compartments on either
side of the main wheels. Most of you thought I should fix the leaks, and I
will give it a try. But in the mean time, pumpouts will speed up my
preflights and allow me to check my leak stopping effectiveness without
undoing the inspection panels every time. After all your comments though,
I lost my courage and postponed the pumpout job. I was afraid that I
couldn't get the pumpouts low enough to clear the far wall, and high
enough to be above the water line. After many measurements and consulting
many pictures of my plane at the dock and water taxiing, I decided to go
ahead. To be on the safe side, I mounted the pumpouts in the inspection
panels so if I was wrong about any of this I would only have to replace
the 4 inspection panels.

Most recently I was looking for advice on repairing a broken seat frame. I
went ahead and slipped in some 1/2" x120 thou 6061 T6 as splines and they
seem to have stiffened things up nicely. Most important, I didn't rivet
the seat pan back into the frame (with spline), as this would weaken the
splines. I cut some aluminum sheet to go around the frame and riveted
through, top, pan, bottom. While I had the upholsery off, I ran some foam
tubes up the edges of the back to give a little lumbar support. I haven't
had a chance to re-install and test the re-built seat yet, but will update
you when I do.

And that's all for now. I will try to be better about giving feed back,
because I really do value the advice and moral support.

Thanks again,

John

From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Building a leak free fuel tank.. Rebel,
Elite, SR,
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 12:01:47 -0500

Thanks Mike... just makes me wonder sometimes when folks ask for
direction
on specifics, and when you decide to provide some they disappear. It's
like
they don't wanna know what's involved to do it right.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------