Do I understand you correctly? I assume what you're saying that if one has
an SR kit--and has not yet licensed/had it inspected--then if one does the
SR-to-Moose upgrade one has to license it as an SR since that is what is
shown on the Murphy bill-of-sale to the original builder. Yet one can then
license it at the factory Moose recommended gross weight of 3,500 lbs.
Hence your point is calling it a "Super Rebel" rather than a "Moose."
Of course, one can call it whatever one wants to since the builder is the
manufacturer--that is the key point, or at least that's the way I understand
the FAA regs.
If the above is not what your below comment refers to, then please
elaborate...
Thank you,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Micheal
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 8:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] top tank skin removal
Sorry Ted.... didn't see it or just missed it.
On 2012-01-06 6:25 AM, "Ted Waltman" <ted@vafm.org> wrote:
have doubts.Jeff,
Did you miss my return question to you re SR to Moose upgrade that I
posted to the list? I can repost it if so.
Thank you,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Jeff Micheal
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 6:57 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] top tank skin removal
Ron, Put in bottom tank access opening. Use the same cover as the
moose wing. The leak that needs to be fixed will be in the upper part
of the tank.
Also if you go the route of removing top tank skin, can you be 100%
sure it will be sealed on install.
On 2012-01-06 12:07 AM, "Ron Shannon" <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:
bottomI've previously reported problems with leaks in 254R's tanks,
including numerous attempts to repair from the outside with suction,
etc., all to no avail. The time for surgery has come, before painting.
I was planning to cut a football-sized access hole in the bottom of
each bay and try to clean and re-coat everything inside with
Pro-Seal through those holes, as Craig and others have done. The
cleaning in particular has me a little bamboozled -- these tanks
have held fuel for 17 months, or at least held most of it. However,
after Wayne's Polygone revelations, removing the existing Pro-Seal
entirely seems like it may be a realistic option. So... I'm
reconsidering removing the top skin instead, to clean down to bare
metal and re-do the whole thing, with better access and vision than
I could ever have through
access holes.The question now: how hard is it to remove the top skin -- without
mangling it? This probably breaks down to A) potential difficulties
removing rivets that are smothered in Pro-Seal on the inside and B)
dealing with skin adhesion from the existing Pro-Seal.
As for rivet removal, presumably all that's needed at first is to
liberate the skin. The rivet tails can be wiggled out later as
inside Pro-Seal comes off and, if a few 5/32 rivets are needed to
button up, it wouldn't be the first time. But it seems that to open
things up enough to pull the top skin out, I'd have to also take out
a few rivets outside the tank perimeter, and leave those tails
rattling around in the wing, etc. Regarding sealant-to-skin
adhesion, in the recent Polygone thread, Wayne was encouraging about
breaking the grip of the Pro-Seal by "slicing" the skin off but... I
Given the virtues of Polygone, I think I'd rather remove all the
Pro-Seal and re-seal the whole thing starting from clean,
well-scuffed metal, with good access and vision, by pulling the top
skin. Comments, tips, and appropriate incantations would be appreciated.
Ron
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