The Murphy Builders Site

The seat pans (aluminum wrap) require a lot of rivet holes in the frame.
Many folks, including me, have instead used canvas slings. Simple and
sturdy. I've not heard anyone complain about performance or longevity.

Ron

PS - Your Lazyboy ain't bulletproof. ;-)



On Wed, Dec 7, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:

Just started to build the seats. I had heard that some seat pans had failed
in the past - tube cracked. Has anyone experienced this and if so, what are
the recommendations to build a bulletproof seat. (other than installing my
Lazyboy:))

Roland

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Hi Roland !

Number 1 suggestion - DO NOT drill ANY holes in seat frames !!
Sames a gear legs - it just weakens them !!

Best to get an upholstery shop to sew a heavy canvas sling around
the tubes - bottom & back ....

While they are at it, cut 3 layers of different density foam - dense
at bottom, medium in middle, and soft on top .. TemperFoam is
nice .. there are others ... Cut triangular bolsters at sides to add
support, and extend front an inch or 2 for extra support under
legs. Bolsters are just glued in place. Cover with Naugahyde on sides,
for wear, and cloth in middle, so it will breathe in summer.

Rebel seat base should be at least 6" - 8" high !! Prevents voice
from rising 3 octaves on exit ... Makes getting in & out easier,
and improves forward visibility !


......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson

De-fenestrate now ! Linux is the answer !

Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender
and do not necessarily reflect the views of any other entities or persons.
Any action taken as a result of the contents of this email is totally the
responsibility of the reader.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/pssignTux.jpg



On Wednesday 07 December 2011 14:06:40 Roland Kriening wrote:

Just started to build the seats. I had heard that some seat pans had failed
in the past - tube cracked. Has anyone experienced this and if so, what are
the recommendations to build a bulletproof seat. (other than installing my
Lazyboy:))

Roland

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Thanks Ron, ( and Bobp)... you guys are fast !

Did you post some pics on your site of the slings? Did you use canvas on the
backrest as well? I also thought of using canvas and was going to sew it up
while on the u shaped frame. I worked as an upholsterer for a few years and
have envisioned many ways of doing this, but wanted to get the group's
opinion of the metal seats first. ........ just reading Bobs post as I type
this... canvas it is! I am also going with shearling seat covers... but far
the most comfortable.

Thanks a bunch !

Roland



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Shannon
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 2:43 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Seat Construction

The seat pans (aluminum wrap) require a lot of rivet holes in the frame.
Many folks, including me, have instead used canvas slings. Simple and
sturdy. I've not heard anyone complain about performance or longevity.

Ron

PS - Your Lazyboy ain't bulletproof. ;-)



On Wed, Dec 7, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:

Just started to build the seats. I had heard that some seat pans had

failed

in the past - tube cracked. Has anyone experienced this and if so, what

are

the recommendations to build a bulletproof seat. (other than installing my
Lazyboy:))

Roland

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Sorry, no pics on my web site for that, because Oregon Aero did the heavy
stretching. Yes, on backrest too.

As for height, before committing to a whole lot of foam in the seat, I'd
suggest you test sitting in it -- using some telephone books to represent
the final, compressed foam thickness -- to make sure you'll have room for
your preferred hairdo and a headset.

Ron


On Wed, Dec 7, 2011 at 12:29 PM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:

Thanks Ron, ( and Bobp)... you guys are fast !

Did you post some pics on your site of the slings? Did you use canvas on
the
backrest as well? I also thought of using canvas and was going to sew it up
while on the u shaped frame. I worked as an upholsterer for a few years and
have envisioned many ways of doing this, but wanted to get the group's
opinion of the metal seats first. ........ just reading Bobs post as I type
this... canvas it is! I am also going with shearling seat covers... but
far
the most comfortable.

Thanks a bunch !

Roland

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The only real issue I've found with seats being slung and not panned, is
the seat release tubes and pins don't retract properly, with some of them,
and you have to try to lift your ass and move the seat at the same time to
get them to release out of the lock holes. If you do pan the seats... bottom
one can go on top without issue, the back rest must be panned on the back of
the tubes, to put the holes in compression when you put your weight against
it.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Shannon" <rshannon@cruzcom.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Seat Construction

Sorry, no pics on my web site for that, because Oregon Aero did the heavy
stretching. Yes, on backrest too.

As for height, before committing to a whole lot of foam in the seat, I'd
suggest you test sitting in it -- using some telephone books to represent
the final, compressed foam thickness -- to make sure you'll have room for
your preferred hairdo and a headset.

Ron


On Wed, Dec 7, 2011 at 12:29 PM, Roland Kriening
<kriening@rogers.com>wrote:

Thanks Ron, ( and Bobp)... you guys are fast !

Did you post some pics on your site of the slings? Did you use canvas on
the
backrest as well? I also thought of using canvas and was going to sew it
up
while on the u shaped frame. I worked as an upholsterer for a few years
and
have envisioned many ways of doing this, but wanted to get the group's
opinion of the metal seats first. ........ just reading Bobs post as I
type
this... canvas it is! I am also going with shearling seat covers... but
far
the most comfortable.

Thanks a bunch !

Roland

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Roland,

There were good articles in the May and June 2010 issues of Kit Planes on seat construction and covering
I would recommend

Ron Stahla 399R

RON AND MARY STAHLA
804 PLUM CREEK PARKWAY
LEXINGTON, NEBRASKA
rmstahla@hotmail.com
office 308-324-5247
home 308-324-2514
cell 308-320-4321

From: bobp@prosumers.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Seat Construction
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2011 14:56:35 -0500


Hi Roland !

Number 1 suggestion - DO NOT drill ANY holes in seat frames !!
Sames a gear legs - it just weakens them !!

Best to get an upholstery shop to sew a heavy canvas sling around
the tubes - bottom & back ....

While they are at it, cut 3 layers of different density foam - dense
at bottom, medium in middle, and soft on top .. TemperFoam is
nice .. there are others ... Cut triangular bolsters at sides to add
support, and extend front an inch or 2 for extra support under
legs. Bolsters are just glued in place. Cover with Naugahyde on sides,
for wear, and cloth in middle, so it will breathe in summer.

Rebel seat base should be at least 6" - 8" high !! Prevents voice
from rising 3 octaves on exit ... Makes getting in & out easier,
and improves forward visibility !


......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson

De-fenestrate now ! Linux is the answer !

Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender
and do not necessarily reflect the views of any other entities or persons

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