EAA article on sealing "faying surfaces"
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:35 pm
Interesting reading:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corr ... aysurf.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Espinoza
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 10:18 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealing: EP420 vs ProSeal
Should the sealer (EP-420) be applied wet to the faying surfaces including
onto the rivets just before assembly? Or would it be best to paint the
surfaces and let it dry before riveting and not coat each rivet?
I have been researching corrosion on faying surfaces and have seen many
opinions from credible sources. In conclusion it makes sense to use
Polyfiber EP-420 on the faying surfaces. For example an engineer from
Boeing states that they prefer to assemble dry.
Mike
On 11/28/11 11:05 AM, "Bob Patterson" <bobp@prosumers.ca> wrote:
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http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corr ... aysurf.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Espinoza
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 10:18 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealing: EP420 vs ProSeal
Should the sealer (EP-420) be applied wet to the faying surfaces including
onto the rivets just before assembly? Or would it be best to paint the
surfaces and let it dry before riveting and not coat each rivet?
I have been researching corrosion on faying surfaces and have seen many
opinions from credible sources. In conclusion it makes sense to use
Polyfiber EP-420 on the faying surfaces. For example an engineer from
Boeing states that they prefer to assemble dry.
Mike
On 11/28/11 11:05 AM, "Bob Patterson" <bobp@prosumers.ca> wrote:
persons.For me, I would never use ProSeal on skin seams ....
you might want to take it apart someday !! Almost impossible
to do without damage with ProSeal ... ( and it's heavier ... :-( )
The EP-430 seals the joint tightly, and can be thinner.. with no flex.
Just MHO ...
......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson
De-fenestrate now ! Linux is the answer !
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On Monday 28 November 2011 10:46:25 Ted Waltman wrote:What do you think about pro-sealing seams, esp corner wraps vs using
EP-420?
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 7:01 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealing the floor question
Don't use silicon anywhere... you'll never get it out of the pores to
make the paint stick to the aircraft. Every seam and overlap gets put
together, in anything I build/assemble, with WET Polyfiber EP420 just
before riveting.
You definitely need a bunch of small 3/32 drain holes though, in
strategic places, in the outer bottom of the fuselage !
----- Original Message -----
From: <tjhickey@iowatelecom.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 8:48 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Sealing the floor question
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!
I am at the point of (small drum roll, please) installing the rear
floor, and it occurs to me that any water that may leak into the
cabin would run down the rear floor, hit a seam at the interior
corner wraps, and wick under the skin, and maybe collect in the bays
beneath the floor. Has anyone used any type of a sealant in the
joint between said corner wraps and the floor?
I have looked for a mild sealant, but the only thing that seems
desirable would be some of that strippable silicon sealant. I know
that regular silicon sealant is a pretty good glue, and I didn't
want to use that. Am I fixing a problem that doesn't exist?
Thanks
Tim Hickey
R808
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