The Murphy Builders Site

Mine were the same. I built up the front about a half an inch with
fiberglass and body filler. Figured a bit of weight there was a good
thing anyway.
Ken

On 22/10/2011 12:38 PM, Roland Kriening wrote:

Just fitting the fiberglass rudder tip I bought from Dave Fife. Both the
elevator tips and the rudder tip have are exactly the same length and shape.
The problem I have with the rudder tip, is it does not reach far enough
forward to meet the front edge of the vert stab ie. The fronts don't line
up. Did anyone else who purchased the Dave Fife tips have this problem, and
if so is there an easy solution other than cutting the back of the tip open
to move it forward.

Roland
R56

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The rudder tip should be a little longer. My first wasn't, and even after a
swap I had to add some filler like Ken. Much easier to add to the front than
cut, add on to, and re-close the back.

Ron


On Sat, Oct 22, 2011 at 10:46 AM, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:

Mine were the same. I built up the front about a half an inch with
fiberglass and body filler. Figured a bit of weight there was a good
thing anyway.
Ken

On 22/10/2011 12:38 PM, Roland Kriening wrote:

Just fitting the fiberglass rudder tip I bought from Dave Fife. Both the
elevator tips and the rudder tip have are exactly the same length and

shape.

The problem I have with the rudder tip, is it does not reach far enough
forward to meet the front edge of the vert stab ie. The fronts don't line
up. Did anyone else who purchased the Dave Fife tips have this problem,

and

if so is there an easy solution other than cutting the back of the tip

open

to move it forward.

Roland
R56

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Hello Roland:

Posted several photos to Section 203-R-Rudder "Fiberglass Tip Fitting (Fife)". This is a general sequence of how I accomplished my Fife fiberglass tip-to-rudder fitting.

01 – Started with tip in position noting setback at Leading edge (LE) to my rudder.
02 – Trailing edge (TE) surgery; had to extend TE aft and align fit with the vertical extended line of the aluminum rudder TE centerline.
03 – Glued urethane foam blocks to LE. Ready to carve to shape. (DO NOT use hotwire as fumes from the urethane are toxic when heated).
04 – BID layup at LE (note peel ply used).
05 – Underside of LE tip with 3 ply BID (note: prior to laying cloth, a ¼ x ¼ inch "V" was cut out around the edge perimeter of the foam-to-fiberglass. Flox was laid in the ¼ x ¼ "V" gutter prior to fiberglass to insure a good bond and solid, hard edge all around upon cure).
06 – Underside final trim. (note urethane foam sandwich)
07 – Microballoon fill low areas at LE
08 – Flox stacked at TE. Carefully sand/shape so TE is "in line" with TE of aluminum rudder TE.
09 – Flox is sanded at TE. Prep for 3 ply BID cloth.
10 – TE flox, sanded, BID fiberglassed and microballoon fill.
11 – LE fiberglassed, cured and peel ply removed. Ready for microballoon fill. (out of sequence)

Drilling and installing floating mini-nutplates are another story for another day.

Terry Dazey
R662
Lake Tapps, Washington USA



--- kriening@rogers.com wrote:

From: "Roland Kriening" <kriening@rogers.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 12:38:38 -0400

Just fitting the fiberglass rudder tip I bought from Dave Fife. Both the
elevator tips and the rudder tip have are exactly the same length and shape.
The problem I have with the rudder tip, is it does not reach far enough
forward to meet the front edge of the vert stab ie. The fronts don't line
up. Did anyone else who purchased the Dave Fife tips have this problem, and
if so is there an easy solution other than cutting the back of the tip open
to move it forward.









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"Drilling and installing floating mini-nutplates are another story for
another day."

CLICK BOND nutplates! Right Ron? :)


----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Dazey" <dazey@TurboUSA.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Help with Dave Fife Rudder Tip


[quote]Hello Roland:

Posted several photos to Section 203-R-Rudder "Fiberglass Tip Fitting
(Fife)". This is a general sequence of how I accomplished my Fife
fiberglass tip-to-rudder fitting.

01

This not a good or bad comment on the 'click bond' but I would do a little research on them first. I just was sent an article a few days ago about the long term usage of these type of connectors attached with adhesive. I can't remember all the particulars but if I can find the article (deleted it) I will repost or forward it. I do remember that it is VERY import to follow the instructions to the letter and after reading it I didn't think I would use them for anything so deleted the article.
Keith

--- On Tue, 10/25/11, craig walls <snowyriver@ak.net> wrote:


From: craig walls <snowyriver@ak.net>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Help with Dave Fife Rudder Tip
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Tuesday, October 25, 2011, 12:57 AM


"Drilling and installing floating mini-nutplates are another story for
another day."

CLICK BOND nutplates!

It is true that one should follow directions, but that's hardly novel. If
you don't follow good practices, a traditional nutplate will also fail, and
in addition the material itself is likely to fail sooner too due to
weakening from more holes!

I have already detailed here the very few early instances -- out of many
hundreds -- of Click Bond "failure" I've experienced, and in each case
precisely because I didn't follow directions. Remember, a Click Bond
nutplate "failure" only means the "nut" turns when you try to unscrew the
fastener with quite a bit of torque. There's no other structural failure and
the nut is still going to hold, even initially against significant torque.
When it comes to structural failure, what material -- whether aluminum,
fiberglass, or whatever -- is stronger with three closely spaced holes in it
(traditional nutplate) than with.one hole (CB)?

Click Bonds are widely used in the aerospace & defense industries. If you
don't trust them in your airplane, you might want to stop flying commercial,
and move to protection of a new DOD as well. I trust them in my airplane,
from panel mounts to torque tube ends to the stabilizer forward attach
bolts. Why? On several occasions I've tried to remove them. Assuming I'm not
applying heat well above the max. 250F spec, that's not possible. The
adhesive, which replaces two extra holes in the material, isn't coming off
unless you grind or sand it off.

Ron



On Tue, Oct 25, 2011 at 5:34 AM, Keith Leitch <im_planecrazy@yahoo.com>wrote:

This not a good or bad comment on the 'click bond' but I would do a little
research on them first. I just was sent an article a few days ago about the
long term usage of these type of connectors attached with adhesive. I can't
remember all the particulars but if I can find the article (deleted it) I
will repost or forward it. I do remember that it is VERY import to follow
the instructions to the letter and after reading it I didn't think I would
use them for anything so deleted the article.
Keith

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