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Aero Sport Air / electronic ignitions

https://www.murphybuilders.net/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1222

Page 1 of 1

Aero Sport Air / electronic ignitions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:40 pm
by Gordon Mohr
I have friends in Terrace B.C. who have gone to Aero Sport for overhauls and
are happy with them. Auto gas being a lower octane should give you more
power and fuel economy, not less. You can tell if there is alcohol in the
gas by putting some in a glass jar with a few drops of water. If the water
is absorbed there is alcohol. The problem with alcohol is that it will
deteriorate some rubber hoses and carburetor parts. You have to be sure you
use parts that are compatible. Also the wet wings are a problem. I put
some of the sloshing compound that I had used in a jar of alcohol and it
softened. I would want to check with the manufacturer of the pro-seal you
used as well. A friend has used auto gas in his cherokee 140 for years and
swears it runs better and smoother than avgas. He does fill about every
third tank with avgas to maintain the lead coating on the valves that
aircraft engines need for lubrication. I intend to use avgas but I'm also
using a Subaru engine.
Regards, Gordon Mohr

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 5:52 AM
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Air / electronic ignitions

We are about to order a Lycoming O-360 engine and have had good reports
about Aero Sport Air in Kamloops, BC. They are a rebuilder of non
certified engines. Much as I would like "new" it just isn't in the cards
at US$25K +. Has anyone had experience with Aero Sport (either good or
bad).

Also, they have available the Laser ignition which is STC'd for certified
engines or Lightspeed or Electroair ignitions. The Laser is $1300 and the
Lightspeed or Electroair $500. Any comments on these ignitions as to
function, best value, trouble shooting, and parts availability? We will
be
doing a lot of backcountry mountain flying in Montana and Idaho and
reliability is foremost.

Finally, for auto gas use Aero sport uses 7.5:1 pistons. Any reason not
to
go the auto gas route? I know there will be some HP loss and/or increased
fuel burn. How critical is it that fuel contain NO alchohol? Some of the
US western states use alchohol in all the autogas I've seen while
traveling.
Thanks,
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 611E

----------
From: list-server <list-server@dcsol.com>
To: rbaker@sumter.net
Subject: murphy-rebel Digest for 12 Feb 2001
Date: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 12:00 AM

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
murphy-rebel Digest for 12 Feb 2001

Topics covered in this issue include:

1: New guy questions
by "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
2: fus-7 and carry-through
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
3: instruments
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
4: Re: instruments
by Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
5: Re: instruments
by Bob Patterson <apat@istar.ca>
6: fus-7 and carry-through
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
7: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
8: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
9: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
10: Re: test
by LisaFly99@aol.com



--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Message:0001
1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: New guy questions

We are first time builders on Elite 611E so I guess entitled to at least
$.01 worth. I suggest the following:
You CAN do it with a moderate skill level. No need to be a tool maker
or
engineer.
The Murphy quality is excellent with jigless assembly.
Although the tool list is not great there are some necessities. I
suggest for power tools:
4" table mounted belt sander.
1/2" capacity, 1/2HP bench drill press.
5HP air compressor. (Check for max CFM as they vary quite a bit)
Air powered rivet puller. (Should cost about $90)
Air die grinder with 3" aluminum cutoff discs.
Dremel variable speed hand tool.
General hand tools also are required. I would include a right angle
drill
attachment, hand nibbler, fly cutter, hand seamer, in addition to the
usual
clecos, cleco pliers and drill bits. Don't try to do quality work with
improper tools. (And don't ask how I know.) Get a copy of FAA
publication
C37.13, Approved Methods of Alteration and Repair and Tony Bingelis
series
of 4 books on homebuilding (available from EAA). Be sure you have the
family approval and support of the project both in time and cost.
Realize
it is like eating an elephant and it is one bite at a time. Actually I
find it helpful to look at construction as a series of small projects to
avoid the "overwhelmed" sense. Also, we have not set a time line. It
will
take as long as it takes to do the best quality job we are capable of.
Darryl has been quoted as saying "it's not a rolex watch" and inevitably
there will be some places you are not as proud of. Do not lower the
quality goal, and never compromise a structural area. Try to do
something
every day. Join EAA and utilize the resources available such as this
group. Don't build just to fly, enjoy the building process with the
goal
of being able to say "yes, I built it myself". A good start is
assembling
the printed material including what I have referenced above and the
catalogs such as Aircraft Spruce and Aircraft Tool Supply Co. Check
prices
as they vary considerably. One tool I did not mention above is our
Sioux
brand 3600 rpm 1/4" chuck drills. These are about $200 and worth every
penny. Another is an electric screwdriver with single flute deburring
bit.
Susan, the Deburring Queen, would probably give up her BMW motorcycle
than
either of those tools.

This has gotten a little long but I hope you feel it is useful as most
of
what is on the list is for those who are already immersed. I can say
that
I enjoy going out to our hangar every day to work on what will be N624E
before the end of the year. Please feel free to contact me off the list
if
you wish.
Ralph Baker


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 Message:0002
2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: fus-7 and carry-through

Hi All

Looking at fitting the forward cage together and can't seem to tell in
the
manal if the fus-7 (bottom front panel) overlaps both bottom main carry
throughs or just the forward most one. ???????? Can someone look at
their
rebel and let me know.

regards

Mike#007

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
3 Message:0003
3
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: instruments

Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4 Message:0004
4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: instruments

Mike,
Go to www.aeroelectric.com and read some of Bob Nuckoll's
articles. He is very
positive on all electric a/c and offers several interesting thoughts and
redundant
electrical system requirements for an all electric a/c. At this point
for
my rebel I am
going to leave out the attitude indicator and the DG (the two vacuum
instruments). I will
probably end up with electric gyro's for these two even though the cost
is way up there.
Maybe I'll buy 1 per year once I get the darned thing flying. The turn
coordinator will
be installed now.
I cannot get excited about using vacuum pump systems. You could use
venturi's
instead of a pump. In the short run the costs are probably more for the
electric system
but I feel the reliability of the electrics are worth it but I have not
done a
comparison. There are imported electric gyro's (about $1000.00 ea)
available from
aircraft spruce and specialty. I just saw them in their new catalog.
Good luck.
Rick D.

Jones, Mike wrote:
Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
5 Message:0005
5
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <apat@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: instruments


Hi Mike !

The new vacuum pumps are <supposedly> MUCH lower maintenance,
but they DO take a few horsepower, ALL the time ! Venturis would be
low maintenance, but a bit of extra drag. Older vacuum pumps required
major work every 300 hours or so, and were pricey to fix. Some -
(the 'wet' type) could cause horrible oil leaks very quickly !

Be careful with vacuum instruments - there are <different> types
for vacuum pump or venturi ! The venturi instruments must be very
good quality, as they get less, and more variable, suction ....

Electric is a good way to go, but expensive. You really have
to decide what kind of flying you're going to do - unless you plan
on night flying, you don't need ANY gyros ! Save your money and go
flying NOW ! You can cut the holes, blank them, and buy the gyros
LATER, <IF> you decide you want 'em.

For night, all you need is a DG, and a turn & bank, to
be legal (likely a venturi DG, and electric T & B). <I> would
consider full IFR gyros a COMPLETE WASTE OF MONEY, <AND> a GREAT
<RISK> to your life !! Too many people TRY to fly IFR when they
are NOT current, and end up DEAD !!! IFR weather in this part
of Canada is VERY HOSTILE, and small aircraft have VERY little
chance of surviving it (ice/total white-outs !) !

If you want to fly IFR legally, you MUST have dual static,
heated pitot, AND the whole system must be re-certified ANNUALLY !
No IFR is allowed until the 25 hours have been flown off, in any
case.

If you do get gyros, you will want to mount them on a
separate panel with shock mounts to reduce the vibration.

......bobp

------------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
-
At 11:53 AM 2/12/01 -0500, you wrote:
Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
6 Message:0006
6
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: fus-7 and carry-through

BOTH MIKE!!!

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: fus-7 and carry-through

Hi All

Looking at fitting the forward cage together and can't seem to tell in
the
manal if the fus-7 (bottom front panel) overlaps both bottom main
carry
throughs or just the forward most one. ???????? Can someone look at
their
rebel and let me know.

regards

Mike#007
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
7 Message:0007
7
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test

<html><head></head><body><br>
</body></html>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
8 Message:0008
8
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test




--------------------------------------------------------------------------
9 Message:0009
9
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "murphy-rebel@dcsol.com" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test





--------------------------------------------------------------------------
10 Message:0010
10
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: LisaFly99@aol.com
Subject: Re: test
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com


--part1_40.759bae8.27ba0d12_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

J.E.
you're coming in load and clear on this end!

--part1_40.759bae8.27ba0d12_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>J.E.
<BR>you're coming in load and clear on this end!</FONT></HTML>

--part1_40.759bae8.27ba0d12_boundary--
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Contributors' page at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/contributors.htm
Visit the book store at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/book_store.htm
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/archives.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Aero Sport Air / electronic ignitions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:40 pm
by Ralph Baker
We are about to order a Lycoming O-360 engine and have had good reports
about Aero Sport Air in Kamloops, BC. They are a rebuilder of non
certified engines. Much as I would like "new" it just isn't in the cards
at US$25K +. Has anyone had experience with Aero Sport (either good or
bad).

Also, they have available the Laser ignition which is STC'd for certified
engines or Lightspeed or Electroair ignitions. The Laser is $1300 and the
Lightspeed or Electroair $500. Any comments on these ignitions as to
function, best value, trouble shooting, and parts availability? We will be
doing a lot of backcountry mountain flying in Montana and Idaho and
reliability is foremost.

Finally, for auto gas use Aero sport uses 7.5:1 pistons. Any reason not to
go the auto gas route? I know there will be some HP loss and/or increased
fuel burn. How critical is it that fuel contain NO alchohol? Some of the
US western states use alchohol in all the autogas I've seen while
traveling.
Thanks,
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 611E

----------
From: list-server <list-server@dcsol.com>
To: rbaker@sumter.net
Subject: murphy-rebel Digest for 12 Feb 2001
Date: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 12:00 AM

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
murphy-rebel Digest for 12 Feb 2001

Topics covered in this issue include:

1: New guy questions
by "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
2: fus-7 and carry-through
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
3: instruments
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
4: Re: instruments
by Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
5: Re: instruments
by Bob Patterson <apat@istar.ca>
6: fus-7 and carry-through
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
7: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
8: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
9: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
10: Re: test
by LisaFly99@aol.com



--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Message:0001
1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: New guy questions

We are first time builders on Elite 611E so I guess entitled to at least
$.01 worth. I suggest the following:
You CAN do it with a moderate skill level. No need to be a tool maker
or
engineer.
The Murphy quality is excellent with jigless assembly.
Although the tool list is not great there are some necessities. I
suggest for power tools:
4" table mounted belt sander.
1/2" capacity, 1/2HP bench drill press.
5HP air compressor. (Check for max CFM as they vary quite a bit)
Air powered rivet puller. (Should cost about $90)
Air die grinder with 3" aluminum cutoff discs.
Dremel variable speed hand tool.
General hand tools also are required. I would include a right angle
drill
attachment, hand nibbler, fly cutter, hand seamer, in addition to the
usual
clecos, cleco pliers and drill bits. Don't try to do quality work with
improper tools. (And don't ask how I know.) Get a copy of FAA
publication
C37.13, Approved Methods of Alteration and Repair and Tony Bingelis
series
of 4 books on homebuilding (available from EAA). Be sure you have the
family approval and support of the project both in time and cost.
Realize
it is like eating an elephant and it is one bite at a time. Actually I
find it helpful to look at construction as a series of small projects to
avoid the "overwhelmed" sense. Also, we have not set a time line. It
will
take as long as it takes to do the best quality job we are capable of.
Darryl has been quoted as saying "it's not a rolex watch" and inevitably
there will be some places you are not as proud of. Do not lower the
quality goal, and never compromise a structural area. Try to do
something
every day. Join EAA and utilize the resources available such as this
group. Don't build just to fly, enjoy the building process with the goal
of being able to say "yes, I built it myself". A good start is
assembling
the printed material including what I have referenced above and the
catalogs such as Aircraft Spruce and Aircraft Tool Supply Co. Check
prices
as they vary considerably. One tool I did not mention above is our Sioux
brand 3600 rpm 1/4" chuck drills. These are about $200 and worth every
penny. Another is an electric screwdriver with single flute deburring
bit.
Susan, the Deburring Queen, would probably give up her BMW motorcycle
than
either of those tools.

This has gotten a little long but I hope you feel it is useful as most of
what is on the list is for those who are already immersed. I can say
that
I enjoy going out to our hangar every day to work on what will be N624E
before the end of the year. Please feel free to contact me off the list
if
you wish.
Ralph Baker


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 Message:0002
2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: fus-7 and carry-through

Hi All

Looking at fitting the forward cage together and can't seem to tell in
the
manal if the fus-7 (bottom front panel) overlaps both bottom main carry
throughs or just the forward most one. ???????? Can someone look at their
rebel and let me know.

regards

Mike#007

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
3 Message:0003
3
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: instruments

Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4 Message:0004
4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: instruments

Mike,
Go to www.aeroelectric.com and read some of Bob Nuckoll's
articles. He is very
positive on all electric a/c and offers several interesting thoughts and
redundant
electrical system requirements for an all electric a/c. At this point for
my rebel I am
going to leave out the attitude indicator and the DG (the two vacuum
instruments). I will
probably end up with electric gyro's for these two even though the cost
is way up there.
Maybe I'll buy 1 per year once I get the darned thing flying. The turn
coordinator will
be installed now.
I cannot get excited about using vacuum pump systems. You could use
venturi's
instead of a pump. In the short run the costs are probably more for the
electric system
but I feel the reliability of the electrics are worth it but I have not
done a
comparison. There are imported electric gyro's (about $1000.00 ea)
available from
aircraft spruce and specialty. I just saw them in their new catalog.
Good luck.
Rick D.

Jones, Mike wrote:
Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
5 Message:0005
5
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <apat@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: instruments


Hi Mike !

The new vacuum pumps are <supposedly> MUCH lower maintenance,
but they DO take a few horsepower, ALL the time ! Venturis would be
low maintenance, but a bit of extra drag. Older vacuum pumps required
major work every 300 hours or so, and were pricey to fix. Some -
(the 'wet' type) could cause horrible oil leaks very quickly !

Be careful with vacuum instruments - there are <different> types
for vacuum pump or venturi ! The venturi instruments must be very
good quality, as they get less, and more variable, suction ....

Electric is a good way to go, but expensive. You really have
to decide what kind of flying you're going to do - unless you plan
on night flying, you don't need ANY gyros ! Save your money and go
flying NOW ! You can cut the holes, blank them, and buy the gyros
LATER, <IF> you decide you want 'em.

For night, all you need is a DG, and a turn & bank, to
be legal (likely a venturi DG, and electric T & B). <I> would
consider full IFR gyros a COMPLETE WASTE OF MONEY, <AND> a GREAT
<RISK> to your life !! Too many people TRY to fly IFR when they
are NOT current, and end up DEAD !!! IFR weather in this part
of Canada is VERY HOSTILE, and small aircraft have VERY little
chance of surviving it (ice/total white-outs !) !

If you want to fly IFR legally, you MUST have dual static,
heated pitot, AND the whole system must be re-certified ANNUALLY !
No IFR is allowed until the 25 hours have been flown off, in any
case.

If you do get gyros, you will want to mount them on a
separate panel with shock mounts to reduce the vibration.

......bobp

------------------------------------orig.----------------------------------
At 11:53 AM 2/12/01 -0500, you wrote:
Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
6 Message:0006
6
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: fus-7 and carry-through

BOTH MIKE!!!

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: fus-7 and carry-through

Hi All

Looking at fitting the forward cage together and can't seem to tell in
the
manal if the fus-7 (bottom front panel) overlaps both bottom main carry
throughs or just the forward most one. ???????? Can someone look at
their
rebel and let me know.

regards

Mike#007
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
7 Message:0007
7
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test

<html><head></head><body><br>
</body></html>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
8 Message:0008
8
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test




--------------------------------------------------------------------------
9 Message:0009
9
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "murphy-rebel@dcsol.com" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test





--------------------------------------------------------------------------
10 Message:0010
10
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: LisaFly99@aol.com
Subject: Re: test
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com


--part1_40.759bae8.27ba0d12_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

J.E.
you're coming in load and clear on this end!

--part1_40.759bae8.27ba0d12_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>J.E.
<BR>you're coming in load and clear on this end!</FONT></HTML>

--part1_40.759bae8.27ba0d12_boundary--
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Contributors' page at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/contributors.htm
Visit the book store at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/book_store.htm
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/archives.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Aero Sport Air / electronic ignitions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:40 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 184 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 17:26:30 on 13 Feb 2001.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Hello Ralph! and anyone else looking for a Lycoming engine.

I don't know anything about Aero Sport, but I just got off the phone with
John Donaldson (owner of ATC in Orillia, Ontario 1-1/2 hours North of
Toronto) to see if he still had an O-360. He has an O-360-A1F6D / 180 H.P.
that is ready to go back together after a complete overhaul (first overhaul
after 1400 hours TT). It has counterweights for the crank to allow use of a
constant speed prop. He needs to know before it goes back together if you
want to run a fixed pitch prop or a constant speed one. If fixed pitch he
removes the counterweights and redirects the oil so it's not trying to go to
the prop hub! Price, if you tell him I sent you, is $24,250 CDN. (and he MAY
be willing to haggle a little to bring the price a bit lower!)

He also has a matching 3 blade McCauley constant speed prop to go with it
complete with polished spinner. Total time since NEW 188 hours, 35 hours
since corrosion inspection. Price $8,250 CDN.

Buy the engine and propellor set and he will let them go for $32,000 CDN!!

John also has 2 x O-320 lycomings. One is an O-320-E3D / 150HP that is ready
to go out the door. Just needs to be run up on the DYNO (Yes, John dyno's to
confirm HP, fuel flow, temperatures, etc, on every engine before they go out
the door, most shops just see if they run!) Price is $20,500CDN.

The other engine is an O-320-E2A. Can be built as a 150 HP or a 160 H.P.
engine for you. Price on this engine SHOULD also be $20,500 CDN.

NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE. AS JOHN PUT IT, HE WAS "HAVING A
SALE" THIS WEEK!

****If you are interested in any of these engines contact me directly so I
know who is trying to deal with John at ATC. That way I can pre introduce
you to John as a "customer" so he is more willing to move the engines at a
savings to YOU. All I need is your name so I can tell John to expect your
call. His e-mail isn't working properly right now due to the sale of the
internet provider that supports his website. The address for reference
though is john@atc-engines.com his phone number is 705-325-5515.

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
O'Shea's Irish Field Aviation
705-527-1124
oifa@irishfield.on.ca
www.irishfield.on.ca


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Air / electronic ignitions

We are about to order a Lycoming O-360 engine and have had good reports
about Aero Sport Air in Kamloops, BC. They are a rebuilder of non
certified engines. Much as I would like "new" it just isn't in the cards
at US$25K +. Has anyone had experience with Aero Sport (either good or
bad).

Also, they have available the Laser ignition which is STC'd for certified
engines or Lightspeed or Electroair ignitions. The Laser is $1300 and the
Lightspeed or Electroair $500. Any comments on these ignitions as to
function, best value, trouble shooting, and parts availability? We will
be
doing a lot of backcountry mountain flying in Montana and Idaho and
reliability is foremost.

Finally, for auto gas use Aero sport uses 7.5:1 pistons. Any reason not
to
go the auto gas route? I know there will be some HP loss and/or increased
fuel burn. How critical is it that fuel contain NO alchohol? Some of the
US western states use alchohol in all the autogas I've seen while
traveling.
Thanks,
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 611E

----------
From: list-server <list-server@dcsol.com>
To: rbaker@sumter.net
Subject: murphy-rebel Digest for 12 Feb 2001
Date: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 12:00 AM

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
murphy-rebel Digest for 12 Feb 2001

Topics covered in this issue include:

1: New guy questions
by "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
2: fus-7 and carry-through
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
3: instruments
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
4: Re: instruments
by Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
5: Re: instruments
by Bob Patterson <apat@istar.ca>
6: fus-7 and carry-through
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
7: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
8: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
9: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
10: Re: test
by LisaFly99@aol.com



--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Message:0001
1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: New guy questions

We are first time builders on Elite 611E so I guess entitled to at least
$.01 worth. I suggest the following:
You CAN do it with a moderate skill level. No need to be a tool maker
or
engineer.
The Murphy quality is excellent with jigless assembly.
Although the tool list is not great there are some necessities. I
suggest for power tools:
4" table mounted belt sander.
1/2" capacity, 1/2HP bench drill press.
5HP air compressor. (Check for max CFM as they vary quite a bit)
Air powered rivet puller. (Should cost about $90)
Air die grinder with 3" aluminum cutoff discs.
Dremel variable speed hand tool.
General hand tools also are required. I would include a right angle
drill
attachment, hand nibbler, fly cutter, hand seamer, in addition to the
usual
clecos, cleco pliers and drill bits. Don't try to do quality work with
improper tools. (And don't ask how I know.) Get a copy of FAA
publication
C37.13, Approved Methods of Alteration and Repair and Tony Bingelis
series
of 4 books on homebuilding (available from EAA). Be sure you have the
family approval and support of the project both in time and cost.
Realize
it is like eating an elephant and it is one bite at a time. Actually I
find it helpful to look at construction as a series of small projects to
avoid the "overwhelmed" sense. Also, we have not set a time line. It
will
take as long as it takes to do the best quality job we are capable of.
Darryl has been quoted as saying "it's not a rolex watch" and inevitably
there will be some places you are not as proud of. Do not lower the
quality goal, and never compromise a structural area. Try to do
something
every day. Join EAA and utilize the resources available such as this
group. Don't build just to fly, enjoy the building process with the
goal
of being able to say "yes, I built it myself". A good start is
assembling
the printed material including what I have referenced above and the
catalogs such as Aircraft Spruce and Aircraft Tool Supply Co. Check
prices
as they vary considerably. One tool I did not mention above is our
Sioux
brand 3600 rpm 1/4" chuck drills. These are about $200 and worth every
penny. Another is an electric screwdriver with single flute deburring
bit.
Susan, the Deburring Queen, would probably give up her BMW motorcycle
than
either of those tools.

This has gotten a little long but I hope you feel it is useful as most
of
what is on the list is for those who are already immersed. I can say
that
I enjoy going out to our hangar every day to work on what will be N624E
before the end of the year. Please feel free to contact me off the list
if
you wish.
Ralph Baker


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 Message:0002
2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: fus-7 and carry-through

Hi All

Looking at fitting the forward cage together and can't seem to tell in
the
manal if the fus-7 (bottom front panel) overlaps both bottom main carry
throughs or just the forward most one. ???????? Can someone look at
their
rebel and let me know.

regards

Mike#007

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
3 Message:0003
3
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: instruments

Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4 Message:0004
4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: instruments

Mike,
Go to www.aeroelectric.com and read some of Bob Nuckoll's
articles. He is very
positive on all electric a/c and offers several interesting thoughts and
redundant
electrical system requirements for an all electric a/c. At this point
for
my rebel I am
going to leave out the attitude indicator and the DG (the two vacuum
instruments). I will
probably end up with electric gyro's for these two even though the cost
is way up there.
Maybe I'll buy 1 per year once I get the darned thing flying. The turn
coordinator will
be installed now.
I cannot get excited about using vacuum pump systems. You could use
venturi's
instead of a pump. In the short run the costs are probably more for the
electric system
but I feel the reliability of the electrics are worth it but I have not
done a
comparison. There are imported electric gyro's (about $1000.00 ea)
available from
aircraft spruce and specialty. I just saw them in their new catalog.
Good luck.
Rick D.

Jones, Mike wrote:
Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
5 Message:0005
5
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <apat@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: instruments


Hi Mike !

The new vacuum pumps are <supposedly> MUCH lower maintenance,
but they DO take a few horsepower, ALL the time ! Venturis would be
low maintenance, but a bit of extra drag. Older vacuum pumps required
major work every 300 hours or so, and were pricey to fix. Some -
(the 'wet' type) could cause horrible oil leaks very quickly !

Be careful with vacuum instruments - there are <different> types
for vacuum pump or venturi ! The venturi instruments must be very
good quality, as they get less, and more variable, suction ....

Electric is a good way to go, but expensive. You really have
to decide what kind of flying you're going to do - unless you plan
on night flying, you don't need ANY gyros ! Save your money and go
flying NOW ! You can cut the holes, blank them, and buy the gyros
LATER, <IF> you decide you want 'em.

For night, all you need is a DG, and a turn & bank, to
be legal (likely a venturi DG, and electric T & B). <I> would
consider full IFR gyros a COMPLETE WASTE OF MONEY, <AND> a GREAT
<RISK> to your life !! Too many people TRY to fly IFR when they
are NOT current, and end up DEAD !!! IFR weather in this part
of Canada is VERY HOSTILE, and small aircraft have VERY little
chance of surviving it (ice/total white-outs !) !

If you want to fly IFR legally, you MUST have dual static,
heated pitot, AND the whole system must be re-certified ANNUALLY !
No IFR is allowed until the 25 hours have been flown off, in any
case.

If you do get gyros, you will want to mount them on a
separate panel with shock mounts to reduce the vibration.

......bobp

------------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
-
At 11:53 AM 2/12/01 -0500, you wrote:
Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
6 Message:0006
6
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: fus-7 and carry-through

BOTH MIKE!!!

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: fus-7 and carry-through

Hi All

Looking at fitting the forward cage together and can't seem to tell in
the
manal if the fus-7 (bottom front panel) overlaps both bottom main
carry
throughs or just the forward most one. ???????? Can someone look at
their
rebel and let me know.

regards

Mike#007
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
7 Message:0007
7
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test

<html><head></head><body><br>
</body></html>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
8 Message:0008
8
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test




--------------------------------------------------------------------------
9 Message:0009
9
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "murphy-rebel@dcsol.com" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test





--------------------------------------------------------------------------
10 Message:0010
10
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: LisaFly99@aol.com
Subject: Re: test
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com


--part1_40.759bae8.27ba0d12_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

J.E.
you're coming in load and clear on this end!

--part1_40.759bae8.27ba0d12_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>J.E.
<BR>you're coming in load and clear on this end!</FONT></HTML>

--part1_40.759bae8.27ba0d12_boundary--
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Contributors' page at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/contributors.htm
Visit the book store at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/book_store.htm
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/archives.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Aero Sport Air / electronic ignitions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:40 pm
by Bob Patterson
Hi Ralph !

Don't know what the lower compression pistons will yield with
the 180 hp., but they reduced the 118 hp. O-235-L2C to about 80 hp !!
This made it pretty USELESS ! You might be better off to go with
the standard pistons, and use high-test auto fuel. We've been
running Shell Gold in our 912 for 10 years, and in the Lycoming
for about 7 (in conjunction with 100 LL).

Sounds like the LASER ignition is much more expensive just
because it's certified ! Have heard many good reports on the
Lightspeed, although, if reliability is <really> important, maybe
you should go with electronic on one side, and leave a magneto on
the left, for starting & limping home in case of a flat battery....

The consensus among engine rebuilders is that you MUST run
<SOME> 100 LL to provide lead to lubricate & protect the valves,
otherwise, they'll look like they've been spot-welded to the seats
after just a few hours. Apparently the lead accumulates in the cases,
pistons, etc., so older engines can go for some time without problems,
but eventually all the lead leaches out, and you get burning. NEW
engines, or engines with new pistons and/or cylinders are MUCH more
sensitive, and need the lead immediately. Many people here run
one tankful of 100 LL to every two tankfuls of mogas ... I used
to keep the left tank full of 100 LL and the right with mogas.
(apparently it's NOT GOOD to mix them .... )

Alcohol in fuel could be bad news - it will absorb water,
making you more susceptible to fuel line icing and carb ice, and
it is a powerful solvent, possibly hard on fuel lines & sealers,
as well as EATING aluminum !! (Alcohol buring dragsters use
stainless steel tanks ...)

......bobp

----------------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 08:52 AM 2/13/01 -0500, you wrote:
We are about to order a Lycoming O-360 engine and have had good reports
about Aero Sport Air in Kamloops, BC. They are a rebuilder of non
certified engines. Much as I would like "new" it just isn't in the cards
at US$25K +. Has anyone had experience with Aero Sport (either good or
bad).

Also, they have available the Laser ignition which is STC'd for certified
engines or Lightspeed or Electroair ignitions. The Laser is $1300 and the
Lightspeed or Electroair $500. Any comments on these ignitions as to
function, best value, trouble shooting, and parts availability? We will be
doing a lot of backcountry mountain flying in Montana and Idaho and
reliability is foremost.

Finally, for auto gas use Aero sport uses 7.5:1 pistons. Any reason not to
go the auto gas route? I know there will be some HP loss and/or increased
fuel burn. How critical is it that fuel contain NO alchohol? Some of the
US western states use alchohol in all the autogas I've seen while
traveling.
Thanks,
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 611E

----------
From: list-server <list-server@dcsol.com>
To: rbaker@sumter.net
Subject: murphy-rebel Digest for 12 Feb 2001
Date: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 12:00 AM

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
murphy-rebel Digest for 12 Feb 2001

Topics covered in this issue include:

1: New guy questions
by "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
2: fus-7 and carry-through
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
3: instruments
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
4: Re: instruments
by Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
5: Re: instruments
by Bob Patterson <apat@istar.ca>
6: fus-7 and carry-through
by "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
7: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
8: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
9: test
by "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
10: Re: test
by LisaFly99@aol.com



--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Message:0001
1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: New guy questions

We are first time builders on Elite 611E so I guess entitled to at least
$.01 worth. I suggest the following:
You CAN do it with a moderate skill level. No need to be a tool maker
or
engineer.
The Murphy quality is excellent with jigless assembly.
Although the tool list is not great there are some necessities. I
suggest for power tools:
4" table mounted belt sander.
1/2" capacity, 1/2HP bench drill press.
5HP air compressor. (Check for max CFM as they vary quite a bit)
Air powered rivet puller. (Should cost about $90)
Air die grinder with 3" aluminum cutoff discs.
Dremel variable speed hand tool.
General hand tools also are required. I would include a right angle
drill
attachment, hand nibbler, fly cutter, hand seamer, in addition to the
usual
clecos, cleco pliers and drill bits. Don't try to do quality work with
improper tools. (And don't ask how I know.) Get a copy of FAA
publication
C37.13, Approved Methods of Alteration and Repair and Tony Bingelis
series
of 4 books on homebuilding (available from EAA). Be sure you have the
family approval and support of the project both in time and cost.
Realize
it is like eating an elephant and it is one bite at a time. Actually I
find it helpful to look at construction as a series of small projects to
avoid the "overwhelmed" sense. Also, we have not set a time line. It
will
take as long as it takes to do the best quality job we are capable of.
Darryl has been quoted as saying "it's not a rolex watch" and inevitably
there will be some places you are not as proud of. Do not lower the
quality goal, and never compromise a structural area. Try to do
something
every day. Join EAA and utilize the resources available such as this
group. Don't build just to fly, enjoy the building process with the goal
of being able to say "yes, I built it myself". A good start is
assembling
the printed material including what I have referenced above and the
catalogs such as Aircraft Spruce and Aircraft Tool Supply Co. Check
prices
as they vary considerably. One tool I did not mention above is our Sioux
brand 3600 rpm 1/4" chuck drills. These are about $200 and worth every
penny. Another is an electric screwdriver with single flute deburring
bit.
Susan, the Deburring Queen, would probably give up her BMW motorcycle
than
either of those tools.

This has gotten a little long but I hope you feel it is useful as most of
what is on the list is for those who are already immersed. I can say
that
I enjoy going out to our hangar every day to work on what will be N624E
before the end of the year. Please feel free to contact me off the list
if
you wish.
Ralph Baker


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 Message:0002
2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: fus-7 and carry-through

Hi All

Looking at fitting the forward cage together and can't seem to tell in
the
manal if the fus-7 (bottom front panel) overlaps both bottom main carry
throughs or just the forward most one. ???????? Can someone look at their
rebel and let me know.

regards

Mike#007

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
3 Message:0003
3
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: instruments

Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4 Message:0004
4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: instruments

Mike,
Go to www.aeroelectric.com and read some of Bob Nuckoll's
articles. He is very
positive on all electric a/c and offers several interesting thoughts and
redundant
electrical system requirements for an all electric a/c. At this point for
my rebel I am
going to leave out the attitude indicator and the DG (the two vacuum
instruments). I will
probably end up with electric gyro's for these two even though the cost
is way up there.
Maybe I'll buy 1 per year once I get the darned thing flying. The turn
coordinator will
be installed now.
I cannot get excited about using vacuum pump systems. You could use
venturi's
instead of a pump. In the short run the costs are probably more for the
electric system
but I feel the reliability of the electrics are worth it but I have not
done a
comparison. There are imported electric gyro's (about $1000.00 ea)
available from
aircraft spruce and specialty. I just saw them in their new catalog.
Good luck.
Rick D.

Jones, Mike wrote:
Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
5 Message:0005
5
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <apat@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: instruments


Hi Mike !

The new vacuum pumps are <supposedly> MUCH lower maintenance,
but they DO take a few horsepower, ALL the time ! Venturis would be
low maintenance, but a bit of extra drag. Older vacuum pumps required
major work every 300 hours or so, and were pricey to fix. Some -
(the 'wet' type) could cause horrible oil leaks very quickly !

Be careful with vacuum instruments - there are <different> types
for vacuum pump or venturi ! The venturi instruments must be very
good quality, as they get less, and more variable, suction ....

Electric is a good way to go, but expensive. You really have
to decide what kind of flying you're going to do - unless you plan
on night flying, you don't need ANY gyros ! Save your money and go
flying NOW ! You can cut the holes, blank them, and buy the gyros
LATER, <IF> you decide you want 'em.

For night, all you need is a DG, and a turn & bank, to
be legal (likely a venturi DG, and electric T & B). <I> would
consider full IFR gyros a COMPLETE WASTE OF MONEY, <AND> a GREAT
<RISK> to your life !! Too many people TRY to fly IFR when they
are NOT current, and end up DEAD !!! IFR weather in this part
of Canada is VERY HOSTILE, and small aircraft have VERY little
chance of surviving it (ice/total white-outs !) !

If you want to fly IFR legally, you MUST have dual static,
heated pitot, AND the whole system must be re-certified ANNUALLY !
No IFR is allowed until the 25 hours have been flown off, in any
case.

If you do get gyros, you will want to mount them on a
separate panel with shock mounts to reduce the vibration.

......bobp

------------------------------------orig.----------------------------------
At 11:53 AM 2/12/01 -0500, you wrote:
Hi all

I am consider instrumet choices now and am looking at electric vs vac.
Other
than cost of electric can anyone offer ideas about the pros & cons of
each,
maintenance of vac system etc.

regards

Mike#007
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
6 Message:0006
6
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: fus-7 and carry-through

BOTH MIKE!!!

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Mike" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: fus-7 and carry-through

Hi All

Looking at fitting the forward cage together and can't seem to tell in
the
manal if the fus-7 (bottom front panel) overlaps both bottom main carry
throughs or just the forward most one. ???????? Can someone look at
their
rebel and let me know.

regards

Mike#007
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
7 Message:0007
7
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test

<html><head></head><body><br>
</body></html>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
8 Message:0008
8
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test




--------------------------------------------------------------------------
9 Message:0009
9
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "J. E. Callahan" <jecall@alaska.net>
To: "murphy-rebel@dcsol.com" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: test





--------------------------------------------------------------------------
10 Message:0010
10
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: LisaFly99@aol.com
Subject: Re: test
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com


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J.E.
you're coming in load and clear on this end!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>J.E.
<BR>you're coming in load and clear on this end!</FONT></HTML>

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Aero Sport Air / electronic ignitions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:40 pm
by Gordon Mohr
Airplane engines have not gotten into the second half of the last century.
That's why I'm going Subaru.

Gordon Mohr
Everything from lawnmowers to cars for the last thirty years have
had hard valve seats that don't require lead for lubrication. Don't
know if airplane engines have gotten into the second half of the last
century or not...

---
David Parrish
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Aero Sport Air / electronic ignitions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:40 pm
by David M Parrish
On 13 Feb 2001, at 10:05, Gordon Mohr wrote:
I have friends in Terrace B.C. who have gone to Aero Sport for
overhauls and are happy with them. Auto gas being a lower octane
should give you more power and fuel economy, not less. You can tell
Auto gas may or may not have more BTU's of energy per pound
than 100LL, but it's a general part of engine thermodynamics that
higher compression ratios are more efficient. That's why Diesels
are so efficient with their 18:1+ compression ratios.
about every third tank with avgas to maintain the lead coating on the
valves that aircraft engines need for lubrication. I intend to use
avgas but I'm also using a Subaru engine. Regards, Gordon Mohr
Everything from lawnmowers to cars for the last thirty years have
had hard valve seats that don't require lead for lubrication. Don't
know if airplane engines have gotten into the second half of the last
century or not...

---
David Parrish

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