the ribs where the stringers pass through. Type A, applied with inexpensive
acid brushes, works great!
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 1999 2:22 AM
To: wins
Subject: [rebel-builders] Re: Old ProSeal
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Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 22:14:34 -0500
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To: Murphy Rebel <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Old ProSeal
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As Promised here is a summary of my findings about old Proseal.
"I had some concern on my pro seal also. I called the factoryFrom Curt.
and they gave me some really good ways of seeing if it is ok to work. I
believe they were something like this. ( sorry, I took it to the work shop.)
If the material separates, or has a crystallized look, that's the base,
that's not a good sign. Also just mix up a small portion and see if it sets
up
overnight at over 50 degrees F.
Curt N97MR"
"I talked to the local manufacturing Rep. and the he said if it doesn't mixFrom Jim.
right i.e. it mixes like taffy (candy) it isn't useable. Also he told me
that
for each 10 degrees of temp. change from 70 degrees, the drying time will
double ....so if it's 60 deg. in your shop, 590-B2 (the 2hr kind) will take
4hrs. to dry. In the summer at 80 deg 590-B2 will dry in 1hr ...90 deg. it
will dry in 30min. After the 6 month date has expired they just retest a
sample of the batch and relabel it for another 6 months ... more like a
freshness guarantee than a reason to toss it out.
Jim
JimsRebel@aol.com"
I think the stuff stores better frozen than refrigerated. I had two three
year
old refrigerated samples that were very slow to harden. They did harden
satisfactorily though after a week or two. I talked to an airline user and
he
said not to worry at all about the slow hardening. However several people
have
reported no problems at all using Proseal that has been frozen 3 or 4 years
so I
suspect it keeps better when frozen.
Another sample was too thick to work with and a little bit granular. That
batch
was a semkit (caulking cartridge) but it hardened normally. It was just too
thick to spread. I found no advantage to the cartridge by the way. If
anything,
I found it easier to spread the stuff with the side of a screwdriver. All of
my
samples were the B-2 filleting grade of ProSeal.
And of course one more question. Has anybody tried the A-2 or A-1/2
brushable
Proseal for brushing over the inside of the seams and rivets after assembly?
I
was thinking of brushing the seams and rivets with the PR1005L sloshing
compound
as per Bobp's suggestion but I am wondering if the brushable Proseal might
be
better for this. In fact, against MAM's advice, I cut a 4x8" oval access
hole in
the bottom rear of the center fuel tank bay. I plan to brush the top inside
corners and rivets after the tank top is on, as I have seen several tanks
with a
couple of seeping rivets. I will then rivet in the rear baffles and install
the
access cover, which should be fairly easy to seal. It seems to me that the
sloshing compound or brushable Proseal should have a better chance when the
tank
is new and clean. Or perhaps I'm just making extra work for myself.
Ken
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