The Murphy Builders Site

Thank you Ron this is most helpful

Now have all the components on and adding cotterpins to the flaperon bolts tomorrow & weight n balance

Do you know where I can purchase spring steel landing gear for a Murphy rebel?

Keen to learn how to start and run the radial rotec properly as I get ready to do taxi test. The original builder felt the tail was too light -has anyone needed to add weight to the tail and if so how much and how/where?

Thank you
Jill

Sent from my iPhone

On 2011-09-16, at 1:59 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:

Jill,

I've edited the subject line to better reflect your questions. For those on
the list who may not yet know, Jill has acquired a completed Rebel, with a
radial engine, that was inspected but has not yet been flown, and she
resides in Winnipeg. Welcome to the list! :-)

The only movement where the vertical push-pull tubes meet the torque tube
horns should be the normal, very slight rotation of the vertical tubes
around their rod end bearings (~ 1/8 turn or so). Otherwise, the connection
between rod end bearings and torque tube horns should be tight - no wobbles
at all. The fastener used there is a flat head machine screw, with the head
countersunk into the horn. Details of building and alignment of the
controls, including these parts, is contained in Ch. 20 "Control Systems".

The actual length of the horizontal stabilizer struts will vary a little,
depending upon the vertical position of TS-3, the piece to which the bottom
of the struts attach. In other words, the actual length of the struts depend
on what size of spacers are used above and below the tailspring between the
fuse and the TS-3. Bottom line is the tailspring is mounted first, and the
struts should then be made long enough to make the stabilizers level,
side-to-side. If the stabilizers are level, side-to-side, when the fuse is
level, then the strut length is correct.

The manual is available on CD from Murphy (email to: shipping@murphyair.com
).

Ron


On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 9:01 PM, Jill Oakes <oakesje@cc.umanitoba.ca> wrote:

Is the flaperon hinge pt bolt- where the vertical push pull tubes join the
horizontal tube - supposed to be wobbly?

What is the length if the horizontal stab braces?

Is there a digital copy of chapters 17-38?
Thank you
Jill

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Best to wait till your weight and balance is done before adding any weight. You can install your ELT as far back as possible and if you need more weight in the back moving your battery should be enough. A bigger tailwheel also makes a lot of difference.
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Jill Oakes <oakesje@cc.umanitoba.ca>
Sender: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 22:04:24
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com><rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Reply-to: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] setup queries (was email listing)

Thank you Ron this is most helpful

Now have all the components on and adding cotterpins to the flaperon bolts tomorrow & weight n balance

Do you know where I can purchase spring steel landing gear for a Murphy rebel?

Keen to learn how to start and run the radial rotec properly as I get ready to do taxi test. The original builder felt the tail was too light -has anyone needed to add weight to the tail and if so how much and how/where?

Thank you
Jill

Sent from my iPhone

On 2011-09-16, at 1:59 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:

Jill,

I've edited the subject line to better reflect your questions. For those on
the list who may not yet know, Jill has acquired a completed Rebel, with a
radial engine, that was inspected but has not yet been flown, and she
resides in Winnipeg. Welcome to the list! :-)

The only movement where the vertical push-pull tubes meet the torque tube
horns should be the normal, very slight rotation of the vertical tubes
around their rod end bearings (~ 1/8 turn or so). Otherwise, the connection
between rod end bearings and torque tube horns should be tight - no wobbles
at all. The fastener used there is a flat head machine screw, with the head
countersunk into the horn. Details of building and alignment of the
controls, including these parts, is contained in Ch. 20 "Control Systems".

The actual length of the horizontal stabilizer struts will vary a little,
depending upon the vertical position of TS-3, the piece to which the bottom
of the struts attach. In other words, the actual length of the struts depend
on what size of spacers are used above and below the tailspring between the
fuse and the TS-3. Bottom line is the tailspring is mounted first, and the
struts should then be made long enough to make the stabilizers level,
side-to-side. If the stabilizers are level, side-to-side, when the fuse is
level, then the strut length is correct.

The manual is available on CD from Murphy (email to: shipping@murphyair.com
).

Ron


On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 9:01 PM, Jill Oakes <oakesje@cc.umanitoba.ca> wrote:

Is the flaperon hinge pt bolt- where the vertical push pull tubes join the
horizontal tube - supposed to be wobbly?

What is the length if the horizontal stab braces?

Is there a digital copy of chapters 17-38?
Thank you
Jill

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Have fun with those flaperon hinge bolt washers, nuts, and cotter pins.
Hemostats, 45-deg. long nose pliers, and small flat wrenches help. Not one
of my favorite jobs, though it does get easier the more times you do it.
Don't forget the large, thin, black nylon washers that go over the bushings,
between flaperons and hinges.

I've never heard of a steel spring gear being made for the Rebel. Grove has
made one or more custom, one piece aluminum spring gears, but they're not
light and require custom saddles, etc. The two-piece Murphy spring gear is
adequate if you keep tabs on the bolt torque regularly per the SB. Angus
McKenzie made an interesting angle gizmo to firm up the spring gear
connection geometry. Pics are in the archives.

Because your plane was already inspected, I assume it was weighed and you
have an empty CG location already. If the original owner thought the tail
was "too light" it should be reflected in a too far forward empty CG, of
course. Personally, I'd be inclined to weigh it again anyway, just to be
sure. Changing from the std. Murphy aluminum "club" tailspring and hard
rubber tailwheel to a modified Champ steel spring and 8" Iron Design
pneumatic tailwheel (similar to Scott) added 5 lbs. to my tail weight. Keep
in mind that when you change tailsprings, you may have to change the spacing
above the TS-3, which may then require making new stabilizer struts. Been
there.

As Drew suggests, moving the battery aft is the most common way to really
change the balance. However, you end up adding quite a bit of overall weight
in the process because of the need for long, heavy gauge cables. If I were
doing that I'd probably use the lightweight CCA cables from
http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires.htm .


Ron
254R


On Sat, Sep 17, 2011 at 7:03 AM, <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca> wrote:

Best to wait till your weight and balance is done before adding any weight.
You can install your ELT as far back as possible and if you need more weight
in the back moving your battery should be enough. A bigger tailwheel also
makes a lot of difference.
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Jill Oakes <oakesje@cc.umanitoba.ca>
Sender: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 22:04:24
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com><rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Reply-to: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] setup queries (was email listing)

Thank you Ron this is most helpful

Now have all the components on and adding cotterpins to the flaperon bolts
tomorrow & weight n balance

Do you know where I can purchase spring steel landing gear for a Murphy
rebel?

Keen to learn how to start and run the radial rotec properly as I get ready
to do taxi test. The original builder felt the tail was too light -has
anyone needed to add weight to the tail and if so how much and how/where?

Thank you
Jill

Sent from my iPhone

On 2011-09-16, at 1:59 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:

Jill,

I've edited the subject line to better reflect your questions. For those

on

the list who may not yet know, Jill has acquired a completed Rebel, with

a

radial engine, that was inspected but has not yet been flown, and she
resides in Winnipeg. Welcome to the list! :-)

The only movement where the vertical push-pull tubes meet the torque tube
horns should be the normal, very slight rotation of the vertical tubes
around their rod end bearings (~ 1/8 turn or so). Otherwise, the

connection

between rod end bearings and torque tube horns should be tight - no

wobbles

at all. The fastener used there is a flat head machine screw, with the

head

countersunk into the horn. Details of building and alignment of the
controls, including these parts, is contained in Ch. 20 "Control

Systems".

The actual length of the horizontal stabilizer struts will vary a little,
depending upon the vertical position of TS-3, the piece to which the

bottom

of the struts attach. In other words, the actual length of the struts

depend

on what size of spacers are used above and below the tailspring between

the

fuse and the TS-3. Bottom line is the tailspring is mounted first, and

the

struts should then be made long enough to make the stabilizers level,
side-to-side. If the stabilizers are level, side-to-side, when the fuse

is

level, then the strut length is correct.

The manual is available on CD from Murphy (email to:

shipping@murphyair.com

).

Ron


On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 9:01 PM, Jill Oakes <oakesje@cc.umanitoba.ca>

wrote:

Is the flaperon hinge pt bolt- where the vertical push pull tubes join

the

horizontal tube - supposed to be wobbly?

What is the length if the horizontal stab braces?

Is there a digital copy of chapters 17-38?
Thank you
Jill

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There's lots of discussion and opinions on this topic in the archives
already (search for "CG") but... If the empty CG isn't too far out of whack,
before moving permanent fixed weight (battery and/or heavy tailwheel) to the
back, consider loading the baggage area instead for the first several
flights. After all, the Rebel is supposed to be a hauler, so why not leave
yourself the option of moving the CG back with stuff that counts? It's a lot
easier to make baggage tie downs -- which you'll need anyway -- than to move
the battery.

I'd suggest getting your loaded CG for early flights back to at least 12"
aft of datum (AOD), preferably a little more, with wing leading edge being
the datum, of course. After you know how the handling (elevator efficiency,
etc.) feels to you, you can decide how you want to accomplish any needed CG
control on a permanent basis. The bottom line is you want the forward CG to
still be well within limits, with a single pilot running low on fuel.

I recently finished putting VG's on the bottom of the stabilizers (in
addition to the wing VG's) which has allowed me to lighten up the baggage
ballast for what feels like comfortable handling -- to me. I still carry 30+
lbs. in the back all the time, mostly useful stuff like spare drinking
water, PFD's & other emergency gear, oil, tools, tie downs, etc. And a
couple pounds of chocolate. :-)

Ron




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