The Murphy Builders Site

Thanks Ron,

Finished one side last night, based in part on your pics. Looks great. I did
use plexi, but may switch the door windows out to lexan as one crack has
already appeared by one of the rivet holes. Havent started to rivet yet, but
am concerned that the pulling of the rivet will cause more cracks.

Roland

R56

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Shannon
Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 2:20 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [rebel-builders] gap seals around window (door)

Outside, i.e., over top of the glass, outside. See
http://n254mr.com/search/node/gap%20seals for some photos, etc.

Ron



On Fri, Sep 9, 2011 at 10:06 AM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:

Do the gap seals on the door window go on the outside of the plexi or
underneath. The plans suggest they go underneath, but that may not look
great.

Roland
R56





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I'm glad the photos were at least some help. I think you'll be happier with
Lexan (or another equiv. brand of polycarbonate) because although the latter
will scratch, it's much less likely to crack. In either case be sure to
drill rivet holes in the "glass" oversize to 5/32" using the special drill
bits for plastics (see
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/m ... idrill.php), as discussed
here many times before. You might also consider pulling those rivets using
lower pressure to the rivet gun. Some have used all aluminum rivets due to
the lower force required to break off the aluminum mandrels.

As you may have noticed from the text, I used .032 for the gap seals. As I
recall the manual calls for something thinner, but I thought that those
unprotected edges of metal, sticking out where they will inevitably get
banged and dinged at some point, should be made from something stronger, so
went to .032.

Of course, that was just one of the 2,362,745 (+/-) places I decided that a
few more grams of weight was "clearly worth it" even though all that weight
does add up. Oh well.

Ron
254R


On Sat, Sep 10, 2011 at 5:20 AM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:

Thanks Ron,

Finished one side last night, based in part on your pics. Looks great. I
did
use plexi, but may switch the door windows out to lexan as one crack has
already appeared by one of the rivet holes. Havent started to rivet yet,
but
am concerned that the pulling of the rivet will cause more cracks.

Roland

R56

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Thanks Ron,

I too went with .032 for the gap seals. The note about the oversized holes
is timely... since I had forgotten about that.

Roland
R56

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Shannon
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2011 10:53 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [Bulk] Re: [rebel-builders] gap seals around window (door)

I'm glad the photos were at least some help. I think you'll be happier with
Lexan (or another equiv. brand of polycarbonate) because although the latter
will scratch, it's much less likely to crack. In either case be sure to
drill rivet holes in the "glass" oversize to 5/32" using the special drill
bits for plastics (see
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/m ... idrill.php), as discussed
here many times before. You might also consider pulling those rivets using
lower pressure to the rivet gun. Some have used all aluminum rivets due to
the lower force required to break off the aluminum mandrels.

As you may have noticed from the text, I used .032 for the gap seals. As I
recall the manual calls for something thinner, but I thought that those
unprotected edges of metal, sticking out where they will inevitably get
banged and dinged at some point, should be made from something stronger, so
went to .032.

Of course, that was just one of the 2,362,745 (+/-) places I decided that a
few more grams of weight was "clearly worth it" even though all that weight
does add up. Oh well.

Ron
254R


On Sat, Sep 10, 2011 at 5:20 AM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:

Thanks Ron,

Finished one side last night, based in part on your pics. Looks great. I
did
use plexi, but may switch the door windows out to lexan as one crack has
already appeared by one of the rivet holes. Havent started to rivet yet,
but
am concerned that the pulling of the rivet will cause more cracks.

Roland

R56

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