The Murphy Builders Site

Just my opinion Bob. Maybe I've gotten too used to the handling
characteristics of larger airplanes, but I think it could
benefit from a bit more roll stability, and pitch as well; I
would rate roll stability as
Just on the positive side of neutral, and pitch, while positive
over a long period (I guess that would be dynamic) is close to
neutral short term (static?). I can fly hands off too, but I
have to hold the stick between my knees:)
I have experimented with initiating a turning descent and
letting it loose...it didn't show any signs of self correcting
before my comfort level forced me to take over. The good thing
is it doesn't pick up speed going down hill.
Overall, I really like it, but every airplane is a compromise of
some sort.


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bobp@prosumers.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] And the saga continues...Rebel
#56 Build
Date: Fri, Aug 26, 2011 9:55 am



Good grief Jesse !

The old "More MUST be
better" theory !!!

The Rebel is ALREADY 'THE' most stable
aircraft I've ever flown
- admittedly only 54 years of flying, so far ....

We regularly fly across the continent, going 2
hours or more
without touching the stick !! Anyone who thinks the Rebel is
hard to fly should just buy an Ercoupe
.... ;-)
(Tricycle with interconnected rudder & ailerons - no rudder
pedals ...
one big brake pedal ... you just steer it ! Flying -
for the car driver !)

Please don't go re-designing the aircraft on a
'feeling' !!
I've seen nice kits ruined by somebody's "improvements" ...

.... and don't get me started on autopilots
!! ;-) :-)


......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson

De-fenestrate now ! Linux is the answer !

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On Friday 26 August 2011 09:58:36 jessejenks@hotmail.com wrote:

Other than the torque tube horn flexing...I would bet the

Rebel flies

better with a bit more dihedral. Might make the yaw/roll coupling
stronger...make it easier to steer with your feet in cruise,

and the

rudder( which is very effective) more useful at slow approach

speeds as

the aileron become less positive...my opinionion only.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone

----- Reply message

-----------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] RE: And the saga

continues...Rebel #56 Build

Date: Thu, Aug 25, 2011 10:22 pm


Roland... as Ken points out.. before you do this process again

get that

fuselage solid in place. I do all of mine with the fuselage

sitting on the

table (90 * to the table) with the fus weighted down and bolts

into the

table thru the front gear attach points. Not something

everyone can do in

the confines of their shop, but as Ken points out you can

block it outside

as well. I then use basement jack posts, that I welded the

bottom plate to

and screwed to a 3' x 3' piece of 3/4" plywood. You then use

the jack

screws, on the jack posts, to raise/lower the wings to get the

dihedral> exact and clamp/drill the struts.

As for strut material and new ends, as many have pointed out

you can

probably machine a new end and keep the existing struts

by transfering the

holes and adjusting the "fork" length accordingly to get what

you need.

Failing that, you can get the strut material from Clair Sceli

at Clamar

Floats as when it became too much of an issue for me to get

Clair a dozen

struts at a time from MAM he had his own die made to extrude

the profile.

He's just up the road from you...

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: And the saga

continues...Rebel #56 Build

I used the same fuselage supports that I use for removing and

servicing> >

the gear. Concrete blocks and wood or jacks under the cage.

Actually I

like to put a 3 foot long wooden 2x3 on each side of the fuselage
stretching between the cage and the bulkhead that the rear

drag strut

attaches to. Then I jack on each of those with the jacks an

inch or two

behind the cage. Tail sits on something as well. As noted,

the fuselage

will move a lot if you just leave it sitting on the wheels.

IMO one should not expect better than 0.2 degree repeatable

accuracy out

of any electronic level that I've ever seen but that is good

enough. I

would only use one level though. You've heard the saying

that a man with

two watches never knows what time it is... If there is any doubt,
reverse the level (end for end) and see if the readings

agree. Exacting

carpenters like to do that to confirm a level's accuracy.

Frankly though

I don't think the dihedral is at all critical other than the

control> > horn attachments at the wing root will flex more if
the dihedral is

excessive. Left and right roughly matching makes it a touch

easier to

fly wings level I suppose ;)

Ken

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