[rebel-builders] And the saga continues...Rebel #56 Build
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:54 pm
Sorry to hear of this snafu. Unfortunately, you're going to need new struts.
That might not be easy.
I gather the problem is with the dihedral angles, though I'm not sure I
understand what you mean by "taking level off the box." What box? I measured
the angles on the underside of the wing, near the main spar. You indicate
your readings were 0.8 to 1.1 degree. I don't think there should be a reason
to have them off the spec'd 1 deg by as much as 0.2 deg. You should be
either right on, or at least within 0.1 deg, IMHO.
As for what may have gotten you out of whack, it's just a wild guess, but
perhaps the strut blocks were not clamped tightly enough. I had problems
with the fore and aft angle of my struts (not dihedral) due to that, and
wrote up the story on my site. See nodes numbered
http://n254mr.com/node/166thru
http://n254mr.com/node/168. They describe & show (I hope) processes for
clamping the strut blocks to keep them from moving as you go. It might
help... or not.
You also have to repeatedly check that the fuse itself is level, of course.
The more often the better. You might want to want to check calibration of
your level, put in a new battery, etc.
Ron
On Tue, Aug 23, 2011 at 12:54 PM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:
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That might not be easy.
I gather the problem is with the dihedral angles, though I'm not sure I
understand what you mean by "taking level off the box." What box? I measured
the angles on the underside of the wing, near the main spar. You indicate
your readings were 0.8 to 1.1 degree. I don't think there should be a reason
to have them off the spec'd 1 deg by as much as 0.2 deg. You should be
either right on, or at least within 0.1 deg, IMHO.
As for what may have gotten you out of whack, it's just a wild guess, but
perhaps the strut blocks were not clamped tightly enough. I had problems
with the fore and aft angle of my struts (not dihedral) due to that, and
wrote up the story on my site. See nodes numbered
http://n254mr.com/node/166thru
http://n254mr.com/node/168. They describe & show (I hope) processes for
clamping the strut blocks to keep them from moving as you go. It might
help... or not.
You also have to repeatedly check that the fuse itself is level, of course.
The more often the better. You might want to want to check calibration of
your level, put in a new battery, etc.
Ron
On Tue, Aug 23, 2011 at 12:54 PM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:
Just when you think things are going well you have a oh #%!@ moment. Wayne,
you told me there would be days like this. Fortunately most have been with
small parts I could manufacture. This time it's a big one and I'm sure the
neighbors heard me.
I mounted the wings to drill the struts and mounting blocks. After what I
thought was careful alignment with two digital levels (taking level off the
box) I ended up with 1.7 degrees on one side and 3 degrees on the other.
The
box was within .1 degree off of true level anyway. Yes, all the holes were
drilled as the level read between .8 and 1.1 degrees, but alas, something
must have been out of whack. Did anyone else experience this, and if so, is
there a fix aside from ordering new parts. Perhaps I am not measuring the
angles correctly.
Roland
R56
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