The Murphy Builders Site

fellow rebel builders

Here is a link to some pics of my Rebel. It was built in 1996 but had
not flown since 2003. I bought it last spring and brought it home on a
trailer.
It has a 160 HP Subaru engine and Warp Drive prop.
The original wheel on the left "broke" while I was taxiing on rough
ground and it jammed and the plane flipped on it's back.--before I even
flew it-- Bob Patterson told me then that the running gear I had was
"recalled"
--apparently go kart stuff--really way too lightweight--
I used front running gear from a Kawasaki Brute Force 4 wheeler. Some
machining to make bearing housings
and modification of the axle housing and some welding. The rims are
aluminum 4 wheeler rims
Farm implement tires that cost about $60 each. I had the tread
machined off by a local re-capping company. This is way cheaper than
Alaska Bush tires and you have a heavier
duty system including the brakes.
A few panels got wrinkled in the flipover so I incorporated some mods
while replacing them. I added
VG's. The aluminum tailspring had been bent straight by the previous owner
due to a hard tail landing. When I put it in a press to rebend it I found
it had no "spring"
so I made a spring from some trailer springs. It now has good bounce to
fix landing "mistakes"
I also could not stand the door setup--it seemed I was always "fighting"
the door while getting in the airplane. I like the flip up conversion much
better. Thats the way the kits should be
produced in my opinion.
I like to fly with doors open as I used to do in Kitfox I once had but
there is too much
buffeting with the Rebel. I installed a solid bulkhead per Bob Pattersons
suggestion and it did help some

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59852993@N02/


Karl Hipp
Crawford Airpark
Crawford Co
970 963 3755





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Looks neat Karl... just please tell me that the boarding step is bolted to
a
tube clamp that goes around that rear drag strut and that those two bolts
aren't thru a hole drilled in the strut.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "karl hipp" <khipp@99victor.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:25 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fwd: restored and modified Rebel

fellow rebel builders

Here is a link to some pics of my Rebel. It was built in 1996 but had
not flown since 2003. I bought it last spring and brought it home on a
trailer.
It has a 160 HP Subaru engine and Warp Drive prop.
The original wheel on the left "broke" while I was taxiing on rough
ground and it jammed and the plane flipped on it's back.--before I even
flew it-- Bob Patterson told me then that the running gear I had was
"recalled"
--apparently go kart stuff--really way too lightweight--
I used front running gear from a Kawasaki Brute Force 4 wheeler. Some
machining to make bearing housings
and modification of the axle housing and some welding. The rims are
aluminum 4 wheeler rims
Farm implement tires that cost about $60 each. I had the tread
machined off by a local re-capping company. This is way cheaper than
Alaska Bush tires and you have a heavier
duty system including the brakes.
A few panels got wrinkled in the flipover so I incorporated some mods
while replacing them. I added
VG's. The aluminum tailspring had been bent straight by the previous
owner
due to a hard tail landing. When I put it in a press to rebend it I found
it had no "spring"
so I made a spring from some trailer springs. It now has good bounce to
fix landing "mistakes"
I also could not stand the door setup--it seemed I was always "fighting"
the door while getting in the airplane. I like the flip up conversion
much
better. Thats the way the kits should be
produced in my opinion.
I like to fly with doors open as I used to do in Kitfox I once had but
there is too much
buffeting with the Rebel. I installed a solid bulkhead per Bob Pattersons
suggestion and it did help some

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59852993@N02/


Karl Hipp
Crawford Airpark
Crawford Co
970 963 3755





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Hello Wayne

My comment is in reference to your reply to Karl's boarding strut. I
realize
no holes should be drilled thru the aluminum drag strut but I was
surprised
to hear the strut could even take the side loads if used for boarding. I
have your die spring gear and I am 5' - 7" and a senior citizen (for a
long,
long time) and I have difficulties climbing in and out. My wife (copilot)
who is only 5' - 1" and 105 Lbs. keeps asking me how she is going to get
in
and out of the Rebel. So far I have just ignored the question but is this
even an option? Up to now I though I would just fabricate a portable light
weight step and keep it in the plane. Would appreciate any thoughts and
suggestions?

Charlie E. 802R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2011 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Fwd: restored and modified Rebel

Looks neat Karl... just please tell me that the boarding step is bolted
to
a
tube clamp that goes around that rear drag strut and that those two bolts
aren't thru a hole drilled in the strut.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "karl hipp" <khipp@99victor.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:25 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fwd: restored and modified Rebel

fellow rebel builders

Here is a link to some pics of my Rebel. It was built in 1996 but had
not flown since 2003. I bought it last spring and brought it home on a
trailer.
It has a 160 HP Subaru engine and Warp Drive prop.
The original wheel on the left "broke" while I was taxiing on rough
ground and it jammed and the plane flipped on it's back.--before I even
flew it-- Bob Patterson told me then that the running gear I had was
"recalled"
--apparently go kart stuff--really way too lightweight--
I used front running gear from a Kawasaki Brute Force 4 wheeler. Some
machining to make bearing housings
and modification of the axle housing and some welding. The rims are
aluminum 4 wheeler rims
Farm implement tires that cost about $60 each. I had the tread
machined off by a local re-capping company. This is way cheaper than
Alaska Bush tires and you have a heavier
duty system including the brakes.
A few panels got wrinkled in the flipover so I incorporated some mods
while replacing them. I added
VG's. The aluminum tailspring had been bent straight by the previous
owner
due to a hard tail landing. When I put it in a press to rebend it I
found
it had no "spring"
so I made a spring from some trailer springs. It now has good bounce to
fix landing "mistakes"
I also could not stand the door setup--it seemed I was always "fighting"
the door while getting in the airplane. I like the flip up conversion
much
better. Thats the way the kits should be
produced in my opinion.
I like to fly with doors open as I used to do in Kitfox I once had but
there is too much
buffeting with the Rebel. I installed a solid bulkhead per Bob
Pattersons
suggestion and it did help some

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59852993@N02/


Karl Hipp
Crawford Airpark
Crawford Co
970 963 3755





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Looks neat Karl... just please tell me that the boarding step is bolted to a
tube clamp that goes around that rear drag strut and that those two bolts
aren't thru a hole drilled in the strut.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "karl hipp"<khipp@99victor.com>
To:<rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:25 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fwd: restored and modified Rebel

fellow rebel builders

Here is a link to some pics of my Rebel. It was built in 1996 but had
not flown since 2003. I bought it last spring and brought it home on a
trailer.
It has a 160 HP Subaru engine and Warp Drive prop.
The original wheel on the left "broke" while I was taxiing on rough
ground and it jammed and the plane flipped on it's back.--before I even
flew it-- Bob Patterson told me then that the running gear I had was
"recalled"
--apparently go kart stuff--really way too lightweight--
I used front running gear from a Kawasaki Brute Force 4 wheeler. Some
machining to make bearing housings
and modification of the axle housing and some welding. The rims are
aluminum 4 wheeler rims
Farm implement tires that cost about $60 each. I had the tread
machined off by a local re-capping company. This is way cheaper than
Alaska Bush tires and you have a heavier
duty system including the brakes.
A few panels got wrinkled in the flipover so I incorporated some mods
while replacing them. I added
VG's. The aluminum tailspring had been bent straight by the previous owner
due to a hard tail landing. When I put it in a press to rebend it I found
it had no "spring"
so I made a spring from some trailer springs. It now has good bounce to
fix landing "mistakes"
I also could not stand the door setup--it seemed I was always "fighting"
the door while getting in the airplane. I like the flip up conversion much
better. Thats the way the kits should be
produced in my opinion.
I like to fly with doors open as I used to do in Kitfox I once had but
there is too much
buffeting with the Rebel. I installed a solid bulkhead per Bob Pattersons
suggestion and it did help some

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59852993@N02/


Karl Hipp
Crawford Airpark
Crawford Co
970 963 3755




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The brace strut seems to be a pretty stout piece of alloy aluminum. I
had it off to repair the weak point which is the mounting area for the
tabs the back of the strut attaches to. I replaced the 1 x 1 internal
square tube that is sandwiched between the tabs with a heavier and
longer piece so I could bolt it to the 2 x 2 channel that extends to and
bolts into the forward crosspiece. I disagree that bolt holes thru the
strut might weaken it. By bolting (actually large rivets) the step to
the main strut, and bolting it to the drag strut,I believe it actually
makes the assembly stronger. I weigh 220 pounds. I can jump on the step
with no deflection of any components.

Karl


On 3/2/2011 7:24 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Looks neat Karl... just please tell me that the boarding step is bolted
to a
tube clamp that goes around that rear drag strut and that those two bolts
aren't thru a hole drilled in the strut.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "karl hipp"<khipp@99victor.com>
To:<rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:25 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fwd: restored and modified Rebel

fellow rebel builders

Here is a link to some pics of my Rebel. It was built in 1996 but had
not flown since 2003. I bought it last spring and brought it home on a
trailer.
It has a 160 HP Subaru engine and Warp Drive prop.
The original wheel on the left "broke" while I was taxiing on rough
ground and it jammed and the plane flipped on it's back.--before I even
flew it-- Bob Patterson told me then that the running gear I had was
"recalled"
--apparently go kart stuff--really way too lightweight--
I used front running gear from a Kawasaki Brute Force 4 wheeler. Some
machining to make bearing housings
and modification of the axle housing and some welding. The rims are
aluminum 4 wheeler rims
Farm implement tires that cost about $60 each. I had the tread
machined off by a local re-capping company. This is way cheaper than
Alaska Bush tires and you have a heavier
duty system including the brakes.
A few panels got wrinkled in the flipover so I incorporated some mods
while replacing them. I added
VG's. The aluminum tailspring had been bent straight by the previous
owner
due to a hard tail landing. When I put it in a press to rebend it I
found
it had no "spring"
so I made a spring from some trailer springs. It now has good bounce to
fix landing "mistakes"
I also could not stand the door setup--it seemed I was always "fighting"
the door while getting in the airplane. I like the flip up conversion
much
better. Thats the way the kits should be
produced in my opinion.
I like to fly with doors open as I used to do in Kitfox I once had but
there is too much
buffeting with the Rebel. I installed a solid bulkhead per Bob
Pattersons
suggestion and it did help some

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59852993@N02/


Karl Hipp
Crawford Airpark
Crawford Co
970 963 3755




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Not gonna argue with your Karl.. just offering advise based on the pile of
mangled gear leg assembies (that I never seem to throw out) in the far
corner of the shop. A 16 year collection of others misfortunes.

You say you can jump on that step without any deflection of any compenets,
like the drag strut or wear and tear on that 1/4" bolt hole and bracket
that's holding same to the back side of the axle gusset... I'm sorry but I'm
gonna say bullshit!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "karl hipp"<khipp@99victor.com>
To:<rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Fwd: restored and modified Rebel

The brace strut seems to be a pretty stout piece of alloy aluminum. I
had it off to repair the weak point which is the mounting area for the
tabs the back of the strut attaches to. I replaced the 1 x 1 internal
square tube that is sandwiched between the tabs with a heavier and
longer piece so I could bolt it to the 2 x 2 channel that extends to and
bolts into the forward crosspiece. I disagree that bolt holes thru the
strut might weaken it. By bolting (actually large rivets) the step to
the main strut, and bolting it to the drag strut,I believe it actually
makes the assembly stronger. I weigh 220 pounds. I can jump on the step
with no deflection of any components.

Karl


On 3/2/2011 7:24 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Looks neat Karl... just please tell me that the boarding step is bolted
to a
tube clamp that goes around that rear drag strut and that those two bolts
aren't thru a hole drilled in the strut.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "karl hipp"<khipp@99victor.com>
To:<rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:25 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fwd: restored and modified Rebel


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Hello Wayne

My comment is in reference to your reply to Karl's boarding strut. I realize
no holes should be drilled thru the aluminum drag strut but I was surprised
to hear the strut could even take the side loads if used for boarding. I
have your die spring gear and I am 5' - 7" and a senior citizen (for a long,
long time) and I have difficulties climbing in and out. My wife (copilot)
who is only 5' - 1" and 105 Lbs. keeps asking me how she is going to get in
and out of the Rebel. So far I have just ignored the question but is this
even an option? Up to now I though I would just fabricate a portable light
weight step and keep it in the plane. Would appreciate any thoughts and
suggestions?

Charlie E. 802R

Mike Ash has a plastic stepstool that he carries in his rebel for his
vertically challenged wife. It's very gentlemanly the way he helps her
in before walking around and storing the step and getting in himself.

On 03/03/2011 10:40 AM, Charlie Eubanks wrote:

Hello Wayne

My comment is in reference to your reply to Karl's boarding strut. I realize
no holes should be drilled thru the aluminum drag strut but I was surprised
to hear the strut could even take the side loads if used for boarding. I
have your die spring gear and I am 5' - 7" and a senior citizen (for a long,
long time) and I have difficulties climbing in and out. My wife (copilot)
who is only 5' - 1" and 105 Lbs. keeps asking me how she is going to get in
and out of the Rebel. So far I have just ignored the question but is this
even an option? Up to now I though I would just fabricate a portable light
weight step and keep it in the plane. Would appreciate any thoughts and
suggestions?

Charlie E. 802R

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Mike Ash has a plastic stepstool that he carries in his rebel for his
vertically challenged wife. It's very gentlemanly the way he helps her
in before walking around and storing the step and getting in himself.

On 03/03/2011 10:40 AM, Charlie Eubanks wrote:

Hello Wayne

My comment is in reference to your reply to Karl's boarding strut. I realize
no holes should be drilled thru the aluminum drag strut but I was surprised
to hear the strut could even take the side loads if used for boarding. I
have your die spring gear and I am 5' - 7" and a senior citizen (for a long,
long time) and I have difficulties climbing in and out. My wife (copilot)
who is only 5' - 1" and 105 Lbs. keeps asking me how she is going to get in
and out of the Rebel. So far I have just ignored the question but is this
even an option? Up to now I though I would just fabricate a portable light
weight step and keep it in the plane. Would appreciate any thoughts and
suggestions?

Charlie E. 802R

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3478 - Release Date: 03/02/11

Hmm, I replied to this post but it appears to have vanished when my ISP
went off air.

I adopted a similar approach early last year, while I was suffering
plantar fasciitis in my right heel. That made it very painful when
trying to step up onto the wingroot of my Jodel D18. The height above
ground was not great but too far for the pain barrier.

A trip to Bunnings, our version of Lowes or Home Depot, revealed a cheap
Chinese plastic single-step folding stool at $17.99, rated at 100kgs.
This proved just the right height on first tests, so I drilled two
diagonally opposed holes in the corners, near the outer edge but missing
the reinforcing ribs. I then passed the ends of a length of blind cord
through each hole and tied large knots on the end of the cord, under the
stool. This both prevents the cord from pulling back through the holes
and also means the stool can be lifted by the cord while remaining
unfolded.

Once aboard, it is a simple task to retrieve the stool via the cord,
fold and stow it away. On arrival, the process is reversed, with the
stool unfolded and lowered to the ground ready for use. It worked so
well that although I no longer need it, at least unless the plantar
fasciitis returns, I now keep it in the plane to assist other less
mobile crew members. It is also very handy when filling the main tank
ahead of the instrument panel and also when working on the engine once
the cowls are removed, both as a step-up and as a seat.

Bill,
either 735R or 753R, I currently forget which.

Bill, can you point me to one of these plastic wonders of which you so
glowingly speak? Googling "plastic folding stool" and similar constructions
yields a number of things, but I don't want just any old "plastic [Chinese]
folding stool". I want the one that's already been tried and pilot-tested!
:-)

Ron


On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 5:12 PM, Bill Maxwell<wrmaxwell@bigpond.com> wrote:

Hmm, I replied to this post but it appears to have vanished when my ISP
went off air.

I adopted a similar approach early last year, while I was suffering
plantar fasciitis in my right heel. That made it very painful when
trying to step up onto the wingroot of my Jodel D18. The height above
ground was not great but too far for the pain barrier.

A trip to Bunnings, our version of Lowes or Home Depot, revealed a cheap
Chinese plastic single-step folding stool at $17.99, rated at 100kgs.
This proved just the right height on first tests, so I drilled two
diagonally opposed holes in the corners, near the outer edge but missing
the reinforcing ribs. I then passed the ends of a length of blind cord
through each hole and tied large knots on the end of the cord, under the
stool. This both prevents the cord from pulling back through the holes
and also means the stool can be lifted by the cord while remaining
unfolded.

Once aboard, it is a simple task to retrieve the stool via the cord,
fold and stow it away. On arrival, the process is reversed, with the
stool unfolded and lowered to the ground ready for use. It worked so
well that although I no longer need it, at least unless the plantar
fasciitis returns, I now keep it in the plane to assist other less
mobile crew members. It is also very handy when filling the main tank
ahead of the instrument panel and also when working on the engine once
the cowls are removed, both as a step-up and as a seat.

Bill,
either 735R or 753R, I currently forget which.

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3479 - Release Date: 03/03/11

My wife got one of these at WalMart

Rated at 300 pounds and the inside is like honey combed

http://towerstool.com/plasticstools.html





On 3/3/2011 7:30 PM, wrmaxwell@bigpond.com wrote to rebel-builders:

-> Hi Ron
->
-> It no longer appears on Bunning's webpage catalog, unfortunately,
-> although it has been available here for some years. We bought our first
-> example in about 2007 for use in our motor home, something I had
-> forgotten until I found them again in the store.
->
-> eBay item 360320377160 looks similar, although it suggests a higher
-> loading maximum than mine. eBay item 300532243044 might be even a
more
-> rugged version, if the maximum loading is any guide.
->
-> The construction of mine features a lattice rib structure, in diamond
-> formation, on the underneath surface of each panel, with a flat exterior
-> surfaces, if that helps.
->
-> Bill
->
-> On 4/03/2011 2:34 PM, Ron Shannon wrote:
-> > Bill, can you point me to one of these plastic wonders of which you so
-> > glowingly speak? Googling "plastic folding stool" and similar constructions
-> > yields a number of things, but I don't want just any old "plastic [Chinese]
-> > folding stool". I want the one that's already been tried and pilot-tested!
-> > :-)
-> >
-> > Ron
-> >
-> >
-> > On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 5:12 PM, Bill Maxwell<wrmaxwell@bigpond.com>
wrote:
-> >
-> >> Hmm, I replied to this post but it appears to have vanished when my
ISP
-> >> went off air.
-> >>
-> >> I adopted a similar approach early last year, while I was suffering
-> >> plantar fasciitis in my right heel. That made it very painful when
-> >> trying to step up onto the wingroot of my Jodel D18. The height above
-> >> ground was not great but too far for the pain barrier.
-> >>
-> >> A trip to Bunnings, our version of Lowes or Home Depot, revealed a
cheap
-> >> Chinese plastic single-step folding stool at $17.99, rated at 100kgs.
-> >> This proved just the right height on first tests, so I drilled two
-> >> diagonally opposed holes in the corners, near the outer edge but
missing
-> >> the reinforcing ribs. I then passed the ends of a length of blind cord
-> >> through each hole and tied large knots on the end of the cord, under
the
-> >> stool. This both prevents the cord from pulling back through the holes
-> >> and also means the stool can be lifted by the cord while remaining
-> >> unfolded.
-> >>
-> >> Once aboard, it is a simple task to retrieve the stool via the cord,
-> >> fold and stow it away. On arrival, the process is reversed, with the
-> >> stool unfolded and lowered to the ground ready for use. It worked so
-> >> well that although I no longer need it, at least unless the plantar
-> >> fasciitis returns, I now keep it in the plane to assist other less
-> >> mobile crew members. It is also very handy when filling the main tank
-> >> ahead of the instrument panel and also when working on the engine
once
-> >> the cowls are removed, both as a step-up and as a seat.
-> >>
-> >> Bill,
-> >> either 735R or 753R, I currently forget which.
-> >>
-> >>
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----
-> > No virus found in this message.
-> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
-> > Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3479 - Release Date:
03/03/11
-> >
-> >




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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3479 - Release Date: 03/03/11