I have just started the firewall forward of a straight mounted (conical mount) Lyc 0 320A into my rebel with a standard nose bowl cowling . Couple of questions what is the minimum distance required between the fly wheel and the cowling?
What is the recomended distance between the prop and the cowling to allow adequate cooling air into the engine ?
I understand too close disrupts the air flow.
I have cut the firewall back 3" and would like to fit the prop as close as possible to the engine. I hadn't intended fitting a spinner.
Peter Kempthorne
Rebel 387
New Zealand
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Cowling dimensions
-
Drew and Jan
Cowling dimensions
Peter I am using a nose bowl off a piper tri-pacer. I just split the
difference between the prop and the flywheel. It's working just fine so
far. You might want to rethink using a spinner though as it will definately
help cool the engine by directing the air into the cowl smoothly.
Drew
At 05:42 PM 1/13/01 +1300, you wrote:
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difference between the prop and the flywheel. It's working just fine so
far. You might want to rethink using a spinner though as it will definately
help cool the engine by directing the air into the cowl smoothly.
Drew
At 05:42 PM 1/13/01 +1300, you wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------Not sure if this got thru when I sent it last time. Would welcome any
help. ................ mount) questions what is the minimum distance
required between the fly wheel and the cowling? What is the recomended
distance between the prop and the cowling to allow adequate cooling air
into the engine ? I understand too close disrupts the air flow. fitting
a spinner. Peter Kempthorne Rebel 387 New Zealand
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Bob Patterson
Cowling dimensions
Hi Peter !
You probably will be ok if you leave at least 1/2" clearance
from the flywheel (don't forget the end of the starter, too).
Spinner - I agree with Drew, especially if you are going to
use a Warp-Drive prop. There's a lot of drag and airflow disruption from
that hub ! I found that even a little 'skull-cap' spinner helped
cooling considerably, with a McCauley metal prop. What kind of
engine & prop are you using ?
If you want a really neat cowl, you might want to run a
strip of about 2" wide .020 aluminum all around the inside rear of
the nose bowl, and rivet it on (approx. 1" spacing). Leave 1" inside
the nose bowl, and 1" clear at the back. The aluminum will greatly
stiffen the fiberglass & help prevent cracking. It also allows
you to trim the top cowl back so it sits on the strip instead of
the fiberglass (with anti-chafe tape between them). This gives a
tidy, flush cowl, and prevents the top from cutting into the
fiberglass.
If you move the side channels up a little closer to horizontal
than the sketch shows, and put piano hinges on the top AND bottom of
the channels, as well as the channel down by the carb air intake,
you can have REALLY easy access to the whole engine, just by pulling
the 2 side pins !! The center pins should be longer at the front,
and bent in an 'S' shape, so they can be snapped behind bolts at
the front, to stop them from coming forward with vibration. Both
ends of the other pins are bent or flared for the same reason.
Just a thought ..... hope it helps !
.....bobp
--------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 11:59 PM 1/12/01 -0500, you wrote:
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You probably will be ok if you leave at least 1/2" clearance
from the flywheel (don't forget the end of the starter, too).
Spinner - I agree with Drew, especially if you are going to
use a Warp-Drive prop. There's a lot of drag and airflow disruption from
that hub ! I found that even a little 'skull-cap' spinner helped
cooling considerably, with a McCauley metal prop. What kind of
engine & prop are you using ?
If you want a really neat cowl, you might want to run a
strip of about 2" wide .020 aluminum all around the inside rear of
the nose bowl, and rivet it on (approx. 1" spacing). Leave 1" inside
the nose bowl, and 1" clear at the back. The aluminum will greatly
stiffen the fiberglass & help prevent cracking. It also allows
you to trim the top cowl back so it sits on the strip instead of
the fiberglass (with anti-chafe tape between them). This gives a
tidy, flush cowl, and prevents the top from cutting into the
fiberglass.
If you move the side channels up a little closer to horizontal
than the sketch shows, and put piano hinges on the top AND bottom of
the channels, as well as the channel down by the carb air intake,
you can have REALLY easy access to the whole engine, just by pulling
the 2 side pins !! The center pins should be longer at the front,
and bent in an 'S' shape, so they can be snapped behind bolts at
the front, to stop them from coming forward with vibration. Both
ends of the other pins are bent or flared for the same reason.
Just a thought ..... hope it helps !
.....bobp
--------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 11:59 PM 1/12/01 -0500, you wrote:
---------*Peter I am using a nose bowl off a piper tri-pacer. I just split the
difference between the prop and the flywheel. It's working just fine so
far. You might want to rethink using a spinner though as it will definately
help cool the engine by directing the air into the cowl smoothly.
Drew
At 05:42 PM 1/13/01 +1300, you wrote:-----------------------------------------------------Not sure if this got thru when I sent it last time. Would welcome any
help. ................ mount) questions what is the minimum distance
required between the fly wheel and the cowling? What is the recomended
distance between the prop and the cowling to allow adequate cooling air
into the engine ? I understand too close disrupts the air flow. fitting
a spinner. Peter Kempthorne Rebel 387 New Zealand
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
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A N Allan
Cowling dimensions
Not sure if this got thru when I sent it last time. Would welcome any help.
................
I have just started the firewall forward of a straight mounted (conical mount) Lyc 0 320A into my rebel with a standard nose bowl cowling . Couple of questions what is the minimum distance required between the fly wheel and the cowling?
What is the recomended distance between the prop and the cowling to allow adequate cooling air into the engine ?
I understand too close disrupts the air flow.
I have cut the firewall back 3" and would like to fit the prop as close as possible to the engine. I hadn't intended fitting a spinner.
Peter Kempthorne
Rebel 387
New Zealand
................
I have just started the firewall forward of a straight mounted (conical mount) Lyc 0 320A into my rebel with a standard nose bowl cowling . Couple of questions what is the minimum distance required between the fly wheel and the cowling?
What is the recomended distance between the prop and the cowling to allow adequate cooling air into the engine ?
I understand too close disrupts the air flow.
I have cut the firewall back 3" and would like to fit the prop as close as possible to the engine. I hadn't intended fitting a spinner.
Peter Kempthorne
Rebel 387
New Zealand
-
rebelair
Cowling dimensions
Bob etc.
I would not make that 2" strip you are talking about with such a light
material. I don't think it will last very long. My minimum is 0.032" which
allows for wear & gives some stiffness to the setup etc.
Brian #328R
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 5:47 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: Cowling dimensions
Hi Peter !
You probably will be ok if you leave at least 1/2" clearance
from the flywheel (don't forget the end of the starter, too).
Spinner - I agree with Drew, especially if you are going to
use a Warp-Drive prop. There's a lot of drag and airflow disruption from
that hub ! I found that even a little 'skull-cap' spinner helped
cooling considerably, with a McCauley metal prop. What kind of
engine & prop are you using ?
If you want a really neat cowl, you might want to run a
strip of about 2" wide .020 aluminum all around the inside rear of
the nose bowl, and rivet it on (approx. 1" spacing). Leave 1" inside
the nose bowl, and 1" clear at the back. The aluminum will greatly
stiffen the fiberglass & help prevent cracking. It also allows
you to trim the top cowl back so it sits on the strip instead of
the fiberglass (with anti-chafe tape between them). This gives a
tidy, flush cowl, and prevents the top from cutting into the
fiberglass.
If you move the side channels up a little closer to horizontal
than the sketch shows, and put piano hinges on the top AND bottom of
the channels, as well as the channel down by the carb air intake,
you can have REALLY easy access to the whole engine, just by pulling
the 2 side pins !! The center pins should be longer at the front,
and bent in an 'S' shape, so they can be snapped behind bolts at
the front, to stop them from coming forward with vibration. Both
ends of the other pins are bent or flared for the same reason.
Just a thought ..... hope it helps !
.....bobp
--------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 11:59 PM 1/12/01 -0500, you wrote:
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I would not make that 2" strip you are talking about with such a light
material. I don't think it will last very long. My minimum is 0.032" which
allows for wear & gives some stiffness to the setup etc.
Brian #328R
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 5:47 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: Cowling dimensions
Hi Peter !
You probably will be ok if you leave at least 1/2" clearance
from the flywheel (don't forget the end of the starter, too).
Spinner - I agree with Drew, especially if you are going to
use a Warp-Drive prop. There's a lot of drag and airflow disruption from
that hub ! I found that even a little 'skull-cap' spinner helped
cooling considerably, with a McCauley metal prop. What kind of
engine & prop are you using ?
If you want a really neat cowl, you might want to run a
strip of about 2" wide .020 aluminum all around the inside rear of
the nose bowl, and rivet it on (approx. 1" spacing). Leave 1" inside
the nose bowl, and 1" clear at the back. The aluminum will greatly
stiffen the fiberglass & help prevent cracking. It also allows
you to trim the top cowl back so it sits on the strip instead of
the fiberglass (with anti-chafe tape between them). This gives a
tidy, flush cowl, and prevents the top from cutting into the
fiberglass.
If you move the side channels up a little closer to horizontal
than the sketch shows, and put piano hinges on the top AND bottom of
the channels, as well as the channel down by the carb air intake,
you can have REALLY easy access to the whole engine, just by pulling
the 2 side pins !! The center pins should be longer at the front,
and bent in an 'S' shape, so they can be snapped behind bolts at
the front, to stop them from coming forward with vibration. Both
ends of the other pins are bent or flared for the same reason.
Just a thought ..... hope it helps !
.....bobp
--------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 11:59 PM 1/12/01 -0500, you wrote:
---------*Peter I am using a nose bowl off a piper tri-pacer. I just split the
difference between the prop and the flywheel. It's working just fine so
far. You might want to rethink using a spinner though as it will definately
help cool the engine by directing the air into the cowl smoothly.
Drew
At 05:42 PM 1/13/01 +1300, you wrote:-----------------------------------------------------Not sure if this got thru when I sent it last time. Would welcome any
help. ................ mount) questions what is the minimum distance
required between the fly wheel and the cowling? What is the recomended
distance between the prop and the cowling to allow adequate cooling air
into the engine ? I understand too close disrupts the air flow. fitting
a spinner. Peter Kempthorne Rebel 387 New Zealand
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/contributors.htm
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Archives located at:
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Bob Patterson
Cowling dimensions
You're right, Brian ! That was a typo - I meant to say .025,
just so it'd be easier to work, but .032 would be even better.
.....bobp
------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 07:06 PM 1/16/01 -0500, you wrote:
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just so it'd be easier to work, but .032 would be even better.
.....bobp
------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 07:06 PM 1/16/01 -0500, you wrote:
---------*Bob etc.
I would not make that 2" strip you are talking about with such a light
material. I don't think it will last very long. My minimum is 0.032" which
allows for wear & gives some stiffness to the setup etc.
Brian #328R
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 5:47 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: Cowling dimensions
Hi Peter !
You probably will be ok if you leave at least 1/2" clearance
from the flywheel (don't forget the end of the starter, too).
Spinner - I agree with Drew, especially if you are going to
use a Warp-Drive prop. There's a lot of drag and airflow disruption from
that hub ! I found that even a little 'skull-cap' spinner helped
cooling considerably, with a McCauley metal prop. What kind of
engine & prop are you using ?
If you want a really neat cowl, you might want to run a
strip of about 2" wide .020 aluminum all around the inside rear of
the nose bowl, and rivet it on (approx. 1" spacing). Leave 1" inside
the nose bowl, and 1" clear at the back. The aluminum will greatly
stiffen the fiberglass & help prevent cracking. It also allows
you to trim the top cowl back so it sits on the strip instead of
the fiberglass (with anti-chafe tape between them). This gives a
tidy, flush cowl, and prevents the top from cutting into the
fiberglass.
If you move the side channels up a little closer to horizontal
than the sketch shows, and put piano hinges on the top AND bottom of
the channels, as well as the channel down by the carb air intake,
you can have REALLY easy access to the whole engine, just by pulling
the 2 side pins !! The center pins should be longer at the front,
and bent in an 'S' shape, so they can be snapped behind bolts at
the front, to stop them from coming forward with vibration. Both
ends of the other pins are bent or flared for the same reason.
Just a thought ..... hope it helps !
.....bobp
--------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 11:59 PM 1/12/01 -0500, you wrote:---------*Peter I am using a nose bowl off a piper tri-pacer. I just split the
difference between the prop and the flywheel. It's working just fine so
far. You might want to rethink using a spinner though as it will definately
help cool the engine by directing the air into the cowl smoothly.
Drew
At 05:42 PM 1/13/01 +1300, you wrote:-----------------------------------------------------Not sure if this got thru when I sent it last time. Would welcome any
help. ................ mount) questions what is the minimum distance
required between the fly wheel and the cowling? What is the recomended
distance between the prop and the cowling to allow adequate cooling air
into the engine ? I understand too close disrupts the air flow. fitting
a spinner. Peter Kempthorne Rebel 387 New Zealand
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*Contributors' page at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/contributors.htm
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