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[rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders First Flight...has happened!

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:41 pm
by Roland Kriening
Jesse,

Congrats ! Thanks for the video and first flight analysis. Looks like an
elevator to me!

I haven't built my doors yet, but it appears to me that you have built a
sliding window... or is it just an illusion.

Roland
R56



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jesse
Jenks
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 11:50 AM
To: Builders list
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders First Flight...has
happened!


Bob,
I just talked to the Bushwheels guy again and he says three things: angle of
the pivot in relation to horizontal must be positive 1 or 2 degrees, tire
pressure matters (mine is too high), tighten the pivot nut as you say Bob. I
think I have a positive angle, but will check for sure, and I'll tighten the
pivot and lower tire pressure and see what happens. I asked him about
steering springs tension, and he says he has seen tight springs shimmy as
bad as loose ones.
From: bobp@prosumers.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders First Flight...has
happened!
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 11:43:38 -0500


Hi Jesse !

That's odd - if it is a clone of the Scott, they definitely use
tension springs, snug, or they won't steer right & will shimmy ...

I have had to cut an inch or more off the back end of later
fiberglass springs to bring the tailwheel shaft to vertical - they
were supplied longer... Might be too long & wiggly, leaving
the shaft sloping back too far ... Shimmy is serious stuff -
can cause a lot of damage in the tail section.

If it is a clone of the Scott, there should be a large nut on
the bottom, secured with a cotter pin. If you remove the pin &
tighten it, it increases friction, and should prevent shimmy ...
try it snug, & replace the pin... Should feel stiff to move by
hand... then give it a shot of grease... Hope that works !

--

......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson

Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender
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Any action taken as a result of the contents of this email is totally
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responsibility of the reader.


On February 16, 2011 01:30:37 am Jesse Jenks wrote:
Thanks Bob,
Tailwheel is the baby bushwheel. It is a scott 3200 body with a larger
fork
and fat tire. I have the fiberglass tailspring. The steering springs are
from Murphy and the chains are a bit slack. I rigged them that way at
the
direction of a guy at Alaskan Bushwheels. He said to make sure the
chains
are not so tight that when the thing is hard over the outside chain gets
real tight and prevents it from breaking loose without a bunch of force.
I
think you're right though, they probably need to be tighter. I'll try
unplugging my static lines and see what that does. It seems like you
wouldn't get a reliable pressure that way either, but I know I have
heard
you and others say that before. A static mast would be easy to do at
this
point too. Hopefully will have a youtube link before too long
From: bobp@prosumers.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders First Flight...has
happened! Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 00:32:06 -0500

Congrats Jesse !

More fun to come !!

You can safely use 2 notches of flap for both - as Ken says,

I always use full flapperon for takeoff & landing -- but I bleed off
to 2 notches for climb.

Tailwheel shimmy - hmmmm - got a steel leaf spring ?? ;-)

Or a Maule tailwheel ?? ;-)

If it really is a Scott 3200, be sure you have the proper

Scott springs, and tight.... no slack in chains. All others should
have about 1/4"+ slack ...

Easy fix for static - snip the hoses & use cabin air - MANY

builders end up that way -- works fine, other than a little needle
flutter when you open or close a window ... :-)

How about some pics ??? :-)
ports
complete
would
may
neutral.

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