[rebel-builders] Another Click-Bond nutplate Convert
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:35 pm
You're most welcome of course, Ben. Glad to hear you like them.
A reminder, especially for installing these in what will later be truly
inaccessible places:
Make sure A) the metal surface is well prepared (scoured brite and well
cleaned -- I use Acetone first, then finish with the supplied special
solvent/cleaner) and B) don't use Click Bond (CB) epoxy that has an expired
date. If you always keep it in a frig, it will probably be fine for an
additional 4-5 months past the date. Once it's been mixed, you'll only have
a few minutes before the epoxy kicks off and is too thick to apply properly
to the base. Let the epoxy fully cure for at least 24 hrs. as directed,
before loading them up.
Don't use them FWF, or where temps will exceed 250F. If they get real hot,
the nutplate attachment won't fail, but the base will loosen and turn when
you try to unscrew the fastener. I do use them on the rear side of the FW to
mount things on the forward side (including the battery box, regulators,
solenoids, etc.) thinking that the only time the FW will get to 250F+ is in
a fire... in which case I'll have more serious issues to worry about if I
get a chance to do repairs.
Out of hundreds I've installed, I have had a couple fail; one because I had
used some outdated, unrefrigerated CB adhesive (I kinda knew it was bad --
it didn't have that wonderful fry-your-brains-aroma of the fresh stuff) and
the other because I had gotten sloppy on surface prep in a hard to reach
location under the panel.
It's also probably prudent to not put a _whole_ lot of downward force on
your screw or bolt as you put it in, thereby pushing the nutplate base
directly away from its mounting surface, but.... here's another tale,
illustrating how strong the darn things really are.
At one point I put one of the 10-32 stud fixtures on the forward face of the
lower carry through, under the pilot knees. It has a roughly 1-1/2" dia.
ceramic base that is glued to the surface. I was going to bolt something
onto it, then decided not to use it, and wanted to take it off. The normal
procedure to remove one of these fixtures is to heat it with a heat
gun (well above the 250F limit spec) while pulling. (Take care, because thin
metal can get distorted doing this, of course.) In this case, I could not
possibly get the area hot enough to loosen up the CB epoxy, because the
carry through is such a whopper heat sink.
So, in some frustration, and knowing the carry through was plenty strong, I
took a whack at the ~1-1/2" long 10-32 stud with a hammer, trying to snap it
off -- but no joy. Even with leverage the base wouldn't budge, and neither
would the stud. Then I took a cold chisel to the edge of the base and tried
to chisel it off with another couple of stout whacks -- still no joy. The
chisel just bounced off the ceramic base material, leaving barely a scratch
in it. Eventually, I just cut the stud down to about 1/2" -- thinking I
might dream up something to mount there in the future after all -- and it's
still there! It will always be there, unless I deploy a torch. [Not.]
There are at least two morals to this story: 1) properly applied, these
things are _real_ strong, and 2) be sure you put it where you want it the
first time. With the nutplates that's more of a no brainer -- you will have
already drilled the hole for the fastener, of course. With the other
fixtures -- tie wrap bases, studs, threaded standoffs, etc. -- you don't
want to have to take them off. They're designed to stay, and stay they will.
Ron
PS1 - Search http://n254mr.com for "Click Bond" for more info.
PS2 - Because people always ask: CB's are available in the US through
http://www.theflightshop.com -- and no, I don't own any stock. Yet. :-)
On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 11:59 AM, <bransom@dcsol.com> wrote:
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A reminder, especially for installing these in what will later be truly
inaccessible places:
Make sure A) the metal surface is well prepared (scoured brite and well
cleaned -- I use Acetone first, then finish with the supplied special
solvent/cleaner) and B) don't use Click Bond (CB) epoxy that has an expired
date. If you always keep it in a frig, it will probably be fine for an
additional 4-5 months past the date. Once it's been mixed, you'll only have
a few minutes before the epoxy kicks off and is too thick to apply properly
to the base. Let the epoxy fully cure for at least 24 hrs. as directed,
before loading them up.
Don't use them FWF, or where temps will exceed 250F. If they get real hot,
the nutplate attachment won't fail, but the base will loosen and turn when
you try to unscrew the fastener. I do use them on the rear side of the FW to
mount things on the forward side (including the battery box, regulators,
solenoids, etc.) thinking that the only time the FW will get to 250F+ is in
a fire... in which case I'll have more serious issues to worry about if I
get a chance to do repairs.
Out of hundreds I've installed, I have had a couple fail; one because I had
used some outdated, unrefrigerated CB adhesive (I kinda knew it was bad --
it didn't have that wonderful fry-your-brains-aroma of the fresh stuff) and
the other because I had gotten sloppy on surface prep in a hard to reach
location under the panel.
It's also probably prudent to not put a _whole_ lot of downward force on
your screw or bolt as you put it in, thereby pushing the nutplate base
directly away from its mounting surface, but.... here's another tale,
illustrating how strong the darn things really are.
At one point I put one of the 10-32 stud fixtures on the forward face of the
lower carry through, under the pilot knees. It has a roughly 1-1/2" dia.
ceramic base that is glued to the surface. I was going to bolt something
onto it, then decided not to use it, and wanted to take it off. The normal
procedure to remove one of these fixtures is to heat it with a heat
gun (well above the 250F limit spec) while pulling. (Take care, because thin
metal can get distorted doing this, of course.) In this case, I could not
possibly get the area hot enough to loosen up the CB epoxy, because the
carry through is such a whopper heat sink.
So, in some frustration, and knowing the carry through was plenty strong, I
took a whack at the ~1-1/2" long 10-32 stud with a hammer, trying to snap it
off -- but no joy. Even with leverage the base wouldn't budge, and neither
would the stud. Then I took a cold chisel to the edge of the base and tried
to chisel it off with another couple of stout whacks -- still no joy. The
chisel just bounced off the ceramic base material, leaving barely a scratch
in it. Eventually, I just cut the stud down to about 1/2" -- thinking I
might dream up something to mount there in the future after all -- and it's
still there! It will always be there, unless I deploy a torch. [Not.]
There are at least two morals to this story: 1) properly applied, these
things are _real_ strong, and 2) be sure you put it where you want it the
first time. With the nutplates that's more of a no brainer -- you will have
already drilled the hole for the fastener, of course. With the other
fixtures -- tie wrap bases, studs, threaded standoffs, etc. -- you don't
want to have to take them off. They're designed to stay, and stay they will.
Ron
PS1 - Search http://n254mr.com for "Click Bond" for more info.
PS2 - Because people always ask: CB's are available in the US through
http://www.theflightshop.com -- and no, I don't own any stock. Yet. :-)
On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 11:59 AM, <bransom@dcsol.com> wrote:
I've been taking care of some loose ends, as well as trying to catch up on
some of my build documentation. One of the loose ends was finding a
solution to the control column bracket attachment. I had elected to bolt
the
brackets to allow removal for access under the panel, rather than surgery
to
modify my back to lay there.
The solution: Click Bond nutplates. Thank you, RON!
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/Murphy/2011/2011.html
-Ben
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