The Murphy Builders Site

Do not use slosh coat what ever you do. I would go over the seems with A2.

Andrew E Burr XIV
Vertical performance LLc
Po Box 213
Cassville MO 65625


VPHelo, LLc has paid for the design and engineering for every component and
holds ownership of all intellectual property for each component.




________________________________
From: Harry DeBruhl <harrydebruhl@yahoo.com>
To: Rebel Builders <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tue, January 4, 2011 6:06:15 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Sealing fuel tanks

Happy New Year !

I have my bottom tank skins on and leak checked. Before I put the top skins on,
I was wondering if it would be wise to "double seal" the tanks by brushing on
another sealant on the entire inside of the tank such as Aircraft Spruce's
PR-1005-L BUNA-N Slosh Coating (PN 09-00324). This cures to a film that they
say adhears to the aluminum and pro-seal, unlike other slosh coatings that are
non-drying (which seems to be the ones people are having later trouble with). I
would rather do over-kill now than chase a leak later. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Harry DeBruhl
Rebel 732R






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Putting a coat of brusheable proseal over the seams and rivets might be
a good thing to do but PR-1005 is a very bad idea IMO. Buna is not
alcohol compatible and who knows what will be in avgas 5 years from now.
There are already reports of it failing with avgas.

BTW most leaks seem to occur on the top of the tank so I cut an access
hole in the bottom of the tank to also brush the top with brusheable
proseal before putting any gas in the tank.

Ken

Harry DeBruhl wrote:

Happy New Year !

I have my bottom tank skins on and leak checked. Before I put the
top skins on, I was wondering if it would be wise to "double seal"
the tanks by brushing on another sealant on the entire inside of the
tank such as Aircraft Spruce's PR-1005-L BUNA-N Slosh Coating (PN
09-00324). This cures to a film that they say adhears to the
aluminum and pro-seal, unlike other slosh coatings that are
non-drying (which seems to be the ones people are having later
trouble with). I would rather do over-kill now than chase a leak
later. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Harry DeBruhl Rebel 732R

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Do not use any sloshing compounds. I have a friend who used
a sloshing compound (on a magnum) and he is paying the
price as he now has to remove the tanks and replace them.
Not a fun job. There are a number of emails from Wayne chastising
Anyone who uses a sloshing compound. DON'T



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Harry
DeBruhl
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 7:06 PM
To: Rebel Builders
Subject: [rebel-builders] Sealing fuel tanks

Happy New Year !

Do it as you described. I had a leak in the final skin (botttom) that I had to remove covers and try sealing three times before I finally got it. A real pain in the A%$.

Tom Tonner

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 16:06:15 -0800
From: harrydebruhl@yahoo.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Sealing fuel tanks
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com

Happy New Year !

I have my bottom tank skins on and leak checked. Before I put the top skins on, I was wondering if it would be wise to "double seal" the tanks by brushing on another sealant on the entire inside of the tank such as Aircraft Spruce's PR-1005-L BUNA-N Slosh Coating (PN 09-00324). This cures to a film that they say adhears to the aluminum and pro-seal, unlike other slosh coatings that are non-drying (which seems to be the ones people are having later trouble with). I would rather do over-kill now than chase a leak later. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Harry DeBruhl
Rebel 732R






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Here is my reply, from last week, to a gentleman that was considering
building welded tanks vs doing the wet wing tanks!
..........................................................
I will NOT slosh a fuel tank... PERIOD. Build it right with
PRC/Proseal/Chemseal only. Slosh is just a ticking time bomb. The use of
"more" Proseal doesn't do anything to make it not leak. I've seen guys waste
3 quarts per wing tank and have it leak. I generally use about 3/4 of a
quart, if that, per tank. Proper fitting or parts.. proper surface
preperation and some forethought into where fuel could run to. Most common
leaks are out the rear bulkheads in the joggle that fits under the rib
flange and the upper stringers going out thru the outboard rib. Guys slap
the proseal to them and try to do the top tank skin all at the same time....
and this does not work.. as it will slump away and leave a pin hole or
similar in the "J" of the stringer. The rear tank bulkheads need to be
totally sealed and you build a dam across the joggle to rib flange area and
let it set before the top skin goes down, with everything else nicely
filleted with a popcicle stick. On the top wing skin and tank skin I get
every thing drilled and located and then use spacing plates, cleco'd between
the wing skin and the outboard tank rib, to hold the rib in place so the
stringers can be worked and sealed from both sides of the rib. Then I put
the tank skin down after that has set up. IE: the stringers get riveted to
the wing skin and then the wing skin gets riveted to all the ribs outboard
of the fuel tank..... then the rear spar and then the leading edge skin gets
riveted overtop of the spar and top skin, leaving just enough rivets out
towards the tank to allow the tank skin to be slid in between the spar and
the leading edge skin. After you have put enough clecos in various
positions to locate the top tank skin you butter the Proseal on both sides
of the tank skin sealing surfaces (spar and le skin) and anywhere else that
looks like it needs it. Then you lay out a layer of proseal on top of all
the ribs, stringers and rear bulkheads etc and place the top tank skin and
carefully work the cleco's in as much as is needed to get all the holes to
line up. Dip/roll every rivet before they are placed and pull at minimal air
pressure so they pull slowly to seat the proseal and not crack the rivet
shop end.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry DeBruhl" <harrydebruhl@yahoo.com>
To: "Rebel Builders" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 7:06 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Sealing fuel tanks

Happy New Year !

I have my bottom tank skins on and leak checked. Before I put the top
skins on, I was wondering if it would be wise to "double seal" the tanks
by brushing on another sealant on the entire inside of the tank such as
Aircraft Spruce's PR-1005-L BUNA-N Slosh Coating (PN 09-00324). This cures
to a film that they say adhears to the aluminum and pro-seal, unlike other
slosh coatings that are non-drying (which seems to be the ones people are
having later trouble with). I would rather do over-kill now than chase a
leak later. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Harry DeBruhl
Rebel 732R






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