[rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:34 pm
Jerry,
I chromate all mating surfaces for sure. Generally, though I know it adds
(some?) weight, I fully chromate all aluminum. For a time, I also had
dipped each rivet tail in Stits EP-420/EP-430 primer before pulling the
rivet (I know several builders who have done this). While this last "dip"
step sure makes for a much better/stronger rivet, it also makes it darn near
impossible to later drill out any of those rivets in a clean manner without
enlarging the diameter of the original hole--so I do no longer recommend
this "dipping" step.
To make your work easier, I started to debur and prime all parts before
assembling a structure. In other words, if I were doing the rudder, for
instance, I'd lay out all the rudder parts, including the skin, and
debur/prime everything. That way I had a mini-inventory at hand, didn't
have to go searching for this or that in the midst of construction, and had
everything ready to go together without waiting for a part to dry.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jerald
Folkerts
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 7:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate
Gentlemen,
I'm getting ready to pull the first rivets within the next
couple of weeks. I've been reading the Vans Air Force Forum lists on
pro-seal, automotive primers, or chromates and have found a variety of
opinions. It's not my intent to start a controversial discussion, but would
like to hear your opinions as to the best quality (something that will hold
up over time) and efficient method of sealing seams/rivets. In addition,
are there any techniques for your preferred method that would make my work
easier?
Happy New Year
Jerry Folkerts
SR2500 #093
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I chromate all mating surfaces for sure. Generally, though I know it adds
(some?) weight, I fully chromate all aluminum. For a time, I also had
dipped each rivet tail in Stits EP-420/EP-430 primer before pulling the
rivet (I know several builders who have done this). While this last "dip"
step sure makes for a much better/stronger rivet, it also makes it darn near
impossible to later drill out any of those rivets in a clean manner without
enlarging the diameter of the original hole--so I do no longer recommend
this "dipping" step.
To make your work easier, I started to debur and prime all parts before
assembling a structure. In other words, if I were doing the rudder, for
instance, I'd lay out all the rudder parts, including the skin, and
debur/prime everything. That way I had a mini-inventory at hand, didn't
have to go searching for this or that in the midst of construction, and had
everything ready to go together without waiting for a part to dry.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jerald
Folkerts
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 7:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate
Gentlemen,
I'm getting ready to pull the first rivets within the next
couple of weeks. I've been reading the Vans Air Force Forum lists on
pro-seal, automotive primers, or chromates and have found a variety of
opinions. It's not my intent to start a controversial discussion, but would
like to hear your opinions as to the best quality (something that will hold
up over time) and efficient method of sealing seams/rivets. In addition,
are there any techniques for your preferred method that would make my work
easier?
Happy New Year
Jerry Folkerts
SR2500 #093
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