Rudder Cable Fairing form

[Charlie Eubanks]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Eubanks" <charlie@troyairpark.com>
To: <schaumr@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: Rudder Cable Fairing form

Rob
The dimensions of the blocks were 4" x 5". The bottom was 1-1/2" thick
with a tappered pocket milled in it, the top was 3/4" MDF with a !/2" wide
x 3-1/4" lg slot to guide a 1/2" dia. tube. The form block was clamped
together in a vice and the 1/2" pipe was forced against the alum with a
large drift pin and a hammer untill seated to the tappered slot. The parts
are trimmed to size and require additional hand forming to fit the
fuselage. The whole process is very simple (some what crude actually) The
wood form blocks have a very short life (3 or 4 sets) untill it looses
defination. If I were to do it again I think I would check out the ones
ACS has in their catalog.
Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: <schaumr@dcsol.com>
To: <charlie@troyairpark.com>
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 12:35 PM
Subject: Rudder Cable Fairing form

Hi Charlie,

Ron Shannon shared some pictures of your rudder cable fairing form block,
which obviously produces terrific results! I was trying to duplicate it,
but my
first attempt (using 2 x 4 stock and a 7/8" pipe) cracked the wood
longitudinally when used with some 0.020" sheet. Are you able to share
the
dimentions (and materials) of the form block(s) and also let me know
whether
or not you hammer the pieces together, or compress in a vise? The top
block
looks like it's MDF....is that correct?

Any advice you've gleaned from the experience would be much appreciated.

Thanks so much,

Rob

Rebel786

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[schaumr]

Thanks Charlie...This helps a lot!
By the way, the ACS fairings are too small.

Your technique is as important as the dimensions you provide, as I tried to
duplicate your results by compressing the two blocks together with the pipe
and aluminum blank in between. Let's just say the outcome was not very
inspiring :)

I will re-tool (top block split) and try this again.

Rob


On 10/5/2010 2:18 PM, charlie@troyairpark.com wrote to rebel-builders:

->
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: "Charlie Eubanks" <charlie@troyairpark.com>
-> To: <schaumr@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 7:10 AM
-> Subject: Re: Rudder Cable Fairing form
->
->
-> > Rob
-> > The dimensions of the blocks were 4" x 5". The bottom was 1-1/2" thick
-> > with a tappered pocket milled in it, the top was 3/4" MDF with a !/2"
wide
-> > x 3-1/4" lg slot to guide a 1/2" dia. tube. The form block was clamped
-> > together in a vice and the 1/2" pipe was forced against the alum with a
-> > large drift pin and a hammer untill seated to the tappered slot. The parts
-> > are trimmed to size and require additional hand forming to fit the
-> > fuselage. The whole process is very simple (some what crude actually)
The
-> > wood form blocks have a very short life (3 or 4 sets) untill it looses
-> > defination. If I were to do it again I think I would check out the ones
-> > ACS has in their catalog.
-> > Charlie
-> > ----- Original Message -----
-> > From: <schaumr@dcsol.com>
-> > To: <charlie@troyairpark.com>
-> > Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 12:35 PM
-> > Subject: Rudder Cable Fairing form
-> >
-> >
-> >> Hi Charlie,
-> >>
-> >> Ron Shannon shared some pictures of your rudder cable fairing form
block,
-> >> which obviously produces terrific results! I was trying to duplicate it,
-> >> but my
-> >> first attempt (using 2 x 4 stock and a 7/8" pipe) cracked the wood
-> >> longitudinally when used with some 0.020" sheet. Are you able to
share
-> >> the
-> >> dimentions (and materials) of the form block(s) and also let me know
-> >> whether
-> >> or not you hammer the pieces together, or compress in a vise? The
top
-> >> block
-> >> looks like it's MDF....is that correct?
-> >>
-> >> Any advice you've gleaned from the experience would be much
appreciated.
-> >>
-> >> Thanks so much,
-> >>
-> >> Rob
-> >>
-> >> Rebel786
-> >>
-> >>
-> >>
-> >
->




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