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murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 17:02:36 on 24 Dec 2000.
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Thanks for the "plug" Bob, but I have had only one person interested in a
long time due to everyone going to the "Cessna leaf" spring gear or
building their own compression struts in various configurations (Sorry guys,
but with some I've seen that don't look too safe I must add), so I still
can't be bothered to bring 4130 up from Dillsburg PA for one or two sets of
struts. It's not worth the bother at this point as I need about 10 sets to
make it worth ordering raw material, shipping, cutting, milling slots, etc.
If I do Ten (10) sets at a time, I can keep the price down to $500 Cdn/set.
If someone only wants one set right now the cost will be $750 Cdn to cover
the higher 4130 tube costs from local suppliers, set up costs (and the
bother of stopping work on 2 refurbs and a complete new Rebel fuselage) to
do a single set of struts. If you think that's too expensive, go out and
price the dozen bungee loops you need in premade form from an A/C supplier.
The newest ones Bob P. left here when we did the A/C "swap" are tagged at
$103.00 for a pair from Aerospares! That would be $618 for bungees and you
have to replace them every now and again. The only thing that needs to be
replaced on the die spring struts I manufacture is (possibly) the ($1.50)
AN5 bolt that slides in the travel slot. I recommend it be removed and
checked once per year and reports so far are that they have always been put
back and not replaced as they were not worn at all. My personal set have had
no maintenance, other than the odd shot of oil and grease, over the last 5 +
years and I haven't even taken my own advice and checked the slider bolt for
wear (I call it a Quality Control check, not laziness!). Now that I've said
that I will go out and change the bolts, as I know they will let me down
now!!
As Bob P. says, the Gord Mhor gear mods are a REALLY good compliment to the
die spring struts, but I would also recommend them to everyone that is using
bungees as well (as I haven't seen a set yet that didn't move almost as
much, or more, as the die springs do)! I will add however that <I DO NOT
HAVE> Gords mods on my gear legs (although I have installed them on Charles
D's and Bob P's Rebels). Since I don't have Gord's solid blocks/bushings, I
have had my main gear legs oval the top hole from hard landings etc, but
mostly from the demanding stresses induced from ski flying with my, scratch
built, fixed penetration skis that are approx 22 " wide x 60" long (about
the size of a set of 4200's, but I can sit ON TOP of 5 feet of powder snow
with them and they give me about 200 FPM more climb due to the "wing"
area!). When I did my engine change I removed my gear legs and installed
full length sleeves (bushings) by drilling the holes oversize to fit the
sleeve and bring the hole back to the original bolt size. When I'm done
"beating up" my Rebel this winter, I will pull the legs and see how they
have held up. If Gord gets a call, it will because they have worn out again!
As for the "any old spring" line, I can't agree more with Bob P. (too bad it
took me 5+ years to get him flying on a set of die spring struts though!).
After 16+ years of co-owning a couple of Plastic Injection Moulding
Companies, We will not even deal with a tool shop that insists on installing
square coil springs in the injection molds they build for us. We have found
that the square ones will break after about a week or two and when we
replace them with the "rounded" coils they will last for years. Main leg and
strut angles, A/C gross (and empty) weights all play a part in the
calculations of gear forces, spring preload, strut unloaded length etc. The
springs I use cost me over $35.00 each, wholesale, through my plastics
plant.
Sorry for the length,
A Merry Christmas and a Happy (and Prosperous) New Year to ALL,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <
bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2000 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: Old Bungee and an gear question.
Hi Scott !
The die spring gear that Wayne supplies works great ! It gives
THE best ride of ANY gear for the Rebel !! Nicer than the spring gear,
and stronger, too.
A couple of caveats, though ;
You MUST install the gear bolt bushing sets that Gord Mohr sells,
as all of the bolts are always moving with the die springs, unlike
the bungee gear, which is only supposed to move to prevent airframe
damage (the tires are the primary shock absorbers).
AND - be very careful NOT to use just 'any old springs' - if
the compression rate and travel are not set up correctly for the Rebel,
you can cause structural damage. (This is the reason I have always
opposed this type of gear. Wayne DID take the time to do the numbers,
so I'm comfortable with HIS gear mods !)
All that said, the bungee gear is still the simplest, lightest,
cheapest way to go !
.....bobp
------------------------------orig.--------------------------------------
At 07:26 AM 12/24/00 -0800, you wrote:
Rick, you are up early or late! Yes, I would love AutoCad drawings. I
can work with any version except 2000. Thank you very much. I am
making my 2nd (of 12) bungee now, so maybe the die springs will save me
some time.
--
Merry Christmas,
Scott Hibbs
hibbs@pacifier.com
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