The Murphy Builders Site

From what everyone has told me, I am surprised too, I lasted this long
before the sill gave out on me. I have definitely not babied my airplane,
and it's seen a lot of rough water. It's the landings on rough water that
seem to take the biggest beating, so am a little surprised that it happened
on a take-off with me. Anyway, it was a quick fix, and didn't lose much
flying time. I will do the other side in the winter.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 4:16 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] float fuselage damage

Drew did you do anything other than thicker sills?

I've seen a Rebel with some witches hat running between the aft wing
mount and the aft float mount but that would go right through the window
behind my doors. I don't think that would stop the damage that Walter
and Angus have anyway. So far I don't have any fuselage panels that are
oil canning as some have mentioned in past posts.

Ken

I repaired both my sills long ago. You and Walter are far superior

pilots

to have gone this long without damage. If I was smarter I would have done
both sides at the same time. I think it would be a lot easier if starting
with straight metal.

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I replaced the panel beneath the door with .0320 and there was some
wrinkling in the outside floor skin just behind the main carrythrough. So I
installed .0320 triangular doublers with sikaflex and solid rivets. BTW I
managed to do all my damage while on wheels.

At 07:15 PM 16/09/2010 -0400, you wrote:

Drew did you do anything other than thicker sills?

I've seen a Rebel with some witches hat running between the aft wing
mount and the aft float mount but that would go right through the window
behind my doors. I don't think that would stop the damage that Walter
and Angus have anyway. So far I don't have any fuselage panels that are
oil canning as some have mentioned in past posts.

Ken

I repaired both my sills long ago. You and Walter are far superior pilots
to have gone this long without damage. If I was smarter I would have done
both sides at the same time. I think it would be a lot easier if starting
with straight metal.

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Drew



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Drew

You'll remember, I too, did all that to mine while it was on wheels. Buckled the rear gear mount area and outer floor/belly skin trying to treat it like my Champ. Made .032 doublers for the stringers and replaced the whole cabin/belly area with .032. Plus .032 cornerwraps, etc., etc.....



Floats have been on for 7 years now. Last year I replaced all the lines with stainless, replaced all wheel bearings and tires. Plus rebuilt all the cylinders so this next refurb will be all structural.

Would like to lower the float gear 4" like the Rebel Ed Peck just did but that would be an extraordinary amount of work.



Ken, next time I'm at the hangar I will try and remember to look at the RV anti-freeze I've used and see what kind it is.



I have to work Sunday so can't make it to bobp's Rebel Bash at Brampton..........Angus

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:00:36 -0400
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
From: drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] float fuselage damage

I replaced the panel beneath the door with .0320 and there was some
wrinkling in the outside floor skin just behind the main carrythrough. So I
installed .0320 triangular doublers with sikaflex and solid rivets. BTW I
managed to do all my damage while on wheels.

At 07:15 PM 16/09/2010 -0400, you wrote:

Drew did you do anything other than thicker sills?

I've seen a Rebel with some witches hat running between the aft wing
mount and the aft float mount but that would go right through the window
behind my doors. I don't think that would stop the damage that Walter
and Angus have anyway. So far I don't have any fuselage panels that are
oil canning as some have mentioned in past posts.

Ken

I repaired both my sills long ago. You and Walter are far superior pilots
to have gone this long without damage. If I was smarter I would have done
both sides at the same time. I think it would be a lot easier if starting
with straight metal.

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Drew



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