[rebel-builders] Lycoming 0-320 in storage
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 6:31 pm
The big thing is not really rust in the cylinders. It's rust on the CAM.
Any rust on the cam will shorten the life of the engine from thousands to
hundreds (maybe only dozens) of hours.
No way to tell if there is rust on the cam without cracking the case.
Just my two cents.
If the engine was built with all yellow tagged parts and got a "return to
service" form, then, if it was pickled properly, it might be OK.
It's a real roll of the dice, though.
If it were me, I'd buy it at a discount and have it disassembled, inspected
and reassembled before trusting it.
Just my two cents.
JP
On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 15:41:45 -0400, kriening wrote
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Any rust on the cam will shorten the life of the engine from thousands to
hundreds (maybe only dozens) of hours.
No way to tell if there is rust on the cam without cracking the case.
Just my two cents.
If the engine was built with all yellow tagged parts and got a "return to
service" form, then, if it was pickled properly, it might be OK.
It's a real roll of the dice, though.
If it were me, I'd buy it at a discount and have it disassembled, inspected
and reassembled before trusting it.
Just my two cents.
JP
On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 15:41:45 -0400, kriening wrote
Thought I would tap the vast amount of experience on this site and
get some opinions on the following.
I have come across a 0-320 E2A that was 0 timed by a professional
shop in 1999. The builder has it in storage since then and is now
selling it. The engine is being sold without accessories. The engine
was sealed for storage by the shop including a dehumidifying plug
at the time as the builder did not know how long the build would
take. The seller indicated to me... "The engine is
sealed....boroscoped last year by an A&P/IA and the result was that
it looked like it was overhauled yesterday. Everything still had
oil on it and no trace of a problem."
Not being an AME / AP, I am wondering what else I should be watching
for before the purchase. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Roland
R56
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Burr" <verticalperformance@yahoo.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Fw: Fuel tank screen
-----------------------------------------------------------------Dave,
Thanks, so far I'm 8 hours in to cleaning the tank and still more to go. I
like to land at a lot of rivers were Avgas is unavailable but Mogas is.
Andrew E Burr XIV
Vertical performance LLc
Po Box 213
Cassville MO 65625
VPHelo, LLc has paid for the design and engineering for every component
and holds ownership of all intellectual property for each component.
--- On Sun, 8/8/10, David A. Ricker <daricker@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
From: David A. Ricker <daricker@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Fw: Fuel tank screen
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Sunday, August 8, 2010, 11:48 PM
Hi Andrew
There's a lot of discussion in the mailing list archive about Pro-Seal,
Mogas and sloshing compound. I believe there are Proseal/Sealmaster
etc. compounds made especially for Mogas. Lots of discussion about
reasons to not use sloshing compound too.
You will probably find more info there than you will ever want to read
through ;-)
Cheers,
Dave
Elite583.cjb.net
Andrew Burr wrote:Can any one tell me were to buy the fuel tank screen fittings. I'm in the
process of fixing my one fuel tank. One of the previous owners used tank
sloshing sealer on the tank and the screen is coated with the sealer.
Word of advise don't use tank sloshing sealant on your tanks. luckily
most of it is pealing off but what a mess. I also need to know if Pro
seal will hold up to car gas and ethanol. Some of the places I fly to
don't always have Avgas.
Andrew E Burr XIV
Vertical performance LLc
Po Box 213
Cassville MO 65625
VPHelo, LLc has paid for the design and engineering for every component
and holds ownership of all intellectual property for each component.
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