[rebel-builders] rebel aileron torque tubes
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 6:23 pm
Reasonable question, Mike.
Incidentally, even though when you're looking at that nut you're about to
make inaccessible for good, it seems counter intuitive -- I'd recommend
that you not tighten the connecting bolt nut (whether fiber, per manual, or
castle) very hard. Mine is too tight. Due to the dihedral angle issue,
something has to give to move around the 2 deg. combined dihedral change.
Over time some combination of bolt, bushing, end cap hole or hangar wear is
inevitable, most likely one of the latter two. In the meantime, no matter
how carefully you set things up for minimal binding, if the bolt is too
tight there can be more control friction than one would suspect, and you may
not feel the full extent of it until after you've riveted the end caps.
Doing it again, I'd grease the bolt in the bushings and snug the nut down
just hand tight plus 1/2-1 turn.
Obviously it's a critical structure and I'm no engineer, but there's got to
be a better way to accommodate a 2 deg. angle change that only rotates
through ~30 deg. Maybe just a light sanding of the bolt shank and a 1/2 deg.
bevel of the inside bushing ends and/or a thin shim washer between the
bushings and hangar or, best of all, a really cool bulletproof planetary
gear bearing that's only 3/16" wide. <g>
Ron
254R
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 8:06 AM, Jones, Michael <Michael.Jones@snclavalin.com
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Incidentally, even though when you're looking at that nut you're about to
make inaccessible for good, it seems counter intuitive -- I'd recommend
that you not tighten the connecting bolt nut (whether fiber, per manual, or
castle) very hard. Mine is too tight. Due to the dihedral angle issue,
something has to give to move around the 2 deg. combined dihedral change.
Over time some combination of bolt, bushing, end cap hole or hangar wear is
inevitable, most likely one of the latter two. In the meantime, no matter
how carefully you set things up for minimal binding, if the bolt is too
tight there can be more control friction than one would suspect, and you may
not feel the full extent of it until after you've riveted the end caps.
Doing it again, I'd grease the bolt in the bushings and snug the nut down
just hand tight plus 1/2-1 turn.
Obviously it's a critical structure and I'm no engineer, but there's got to
be a better way to accommodate a 2 deg. angle change that only rotates
through ~30 deg. Maybe just a light sanding of the bolt shank and a 1/2 deg.
bevel of the inside bushing ends and/or a thin shim washer between the
bushings and hangar or, best of all, a really cool bulletproof planetary
gear bearing that's only 3/16" wide. <g>
Ron
254R
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 8:06 AM, Jones, Michael <Michael.Jones@snclavalin.com
wrote:
hi all
so as i started to assembled the short and long torque tubes inside the
cabin last night i thought of a question.
the 2 tubes are bolted together with 2 steel bushings pinching the
hanger bracket and the control horn centers pivot on the steel bushings,
why is there not a brass bushing like the flap hinges so that the
aluminun end caps do not wear into bigger holes
just a thought as the torque tubes are supposed to be at same 1deg angle
as wings and so the will be binding
any thoughts
cheers
mike#007
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