The Murphy Builders Site

Your .040 doublers are stronger than what I did. I wouldn't have put
anything on the exterior skin if I'd been able to do what you've already
done. It is a tricky thing to get much benefit from making a doubler
that is thicker than the underlying material and .040 is thicker than
the bulkhead. The rivets or bolts tend to start ripping out of the
thinner material first. As usual though, pay more attention to what MAM
or guys with more experience than me say.

I only remember a bit of flex where the top of the extra bulkhead meets
and rivets together. Nothing that I'd call a bend. No spacer on mine.
The skins also help lock the two parts together.

Ken

Jose & Terry wrote:

Hello fellas, I too am in the middle of installing the float points
and found the mod section pics of the doublers. I should have asked
what thickness material they were ahead of time cause I already made
them out of .040 .I made 4. 2 for each side and left about 13
inchs from center to each end which I plan on riveting to the
bulkheads past the float points. also plan to put the diamond outside
over the float point later. I wonder if this is going to be o.k. or
should i make them again thicker? Oh yes also the part in the manual
that says at the double bulk head end to bend the back one and rivet
it to the other is a little strange to me, seems like the second bulk
is going to go up at a weird angle or is it bent with a spacer
inbetween? any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Jose

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I think how you mount your floats is important too. My rear float struts are
exactly in line with the vertical of the rear cabin at that point.

I don't have those doublers or outside diamond with mine (although strongly
recommend the doublers), but so far no wrinkles or signs of stress. And I
have been in some very rough water, and rough landings, too. Missed the
grass runway once at Langley (more to that story), and thought for sure
something had to bend, but came out of it clean.

I think my main wheel suspension is very good, too, so that probably helps
me. I use the blue Elite nose wheel pucks on mine.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 6:14 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] float points rebel 805r

Your .040 doublers are stronger than what I did. I wouldn't have put
anything on the exterior skin if I'd been able to do what you've already
done. It is a tricky thing to get much benefit from making a doubler
that is thicker than the underlying material and .040 is thicker than
the bulkhead. The rivets or bolts tend to start ripping out of the
thinner material first. As usual though, pay more attention to what MAM
or guys with more experience than me say.

I only remember a bit of flex where the top of the extra bulkhead meets
and rivets together. Nothing that I'd call a bend. No spacer on mine.
The skins also help lock the two parts together.

Ken

Jose & Terry wrote:

Hello fellas, I too am in the middle of installing the float points
and found the mod section pics of the doublers. I should have asked
what thickness material they were ahead of time cause I already made
them out of .040 .I made 4. 2 for each side and left about 13
inchs from center to each end which I plan on riveting to the
bulkheads past the float points. also plan to put the diamond outside
over the float point later. I wonder if this is going to be o.k. or
should i make them again thicker? Oh yes also the part in the manual
that says at the double bulk head end to bend the back one and rivet
it to the other is a little strange to me, seems like the second bulk
is going to go up at a weird angle or is it bent with a spacer
inbetween? any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Jose

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Thanks Ken and Walter for your input. I've left the .040 doublers on and
riveted one side a few minutes ago. It looks really good, I'll try to upload
some pics to the files under 'floats'. As far as the leaning rear bulkhead
your right there is not really any bending it just sort of leans
automatically into the front one. Does this sound right to you? If so I
guess the riveting on the outside will go up at a slight angle? just want to
be sure before I do this, actually I would rather the bulkhead go up
straight with a space, rivet in place even with outside bulkhead and do the
strip thing on the inside, but requires a bit of pull on the bulkhead to do
this. Don't like that part much. ahh what to do what to do.

Jose


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] float points rebel 805r

Your .040 doublers are stronger than what I did. I wouldn't have put
anything on the exterior skin if I'd been able to do what you've already
done. It is a tricky thing to get much benefit from making a doubler
that is thicker than the underlying material and .040 is thicker than
the bulkhead. The rivets or bolts tend to start ripping out of the
thinner material first. As usual though, pay more attention to what MAM
or guys with more experience than me say.

I only remember a bit of flex where the top of the extra bulkhead meets
and rivets together. Nothing that I'd call a bend. No spacer on mine.
The skins also help lock the two parts together.

Ken

Jose & Terry wrote:

Hello fellas, I too am in the middle of installing the float points
and found the mod section pics of the doublers. I should have asked
what thickness material they were ahead of time cause I already made
them out of .040 .I made 4. 2 for each side and left about 13
inchs from center to each end which I plan on riveting to the
bulkheads past the float points. also plan to put the diamond outside
over the float point later. I wonder if this is going to be o.k. or
should i make them again thicker? Oh yes also the part in the manual
that says at the double bulk head end to bend the back one and rivet
it to the other is a little strange to me, seems like the second bulk
is going to go up at a weird angle or is it bent with a spacer
inbetween? any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Jose

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