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[rebel-builders] Torqueing Lock Nuts

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:46 pm
by Ron Shannon
I don't believe there's a special torque value for those. Standard torque
for -3 bolts would be ~20-25 in/lbs. If you don't already have an
inspection/maintenance hole to get at the nut, this would be a good time to
get out the step drill and make one, as spec'd in the manual. Even if the
bolt threads are stripped, you may be able to get hold of and remove the nut
without having to drill out the whole bolt.

Ron


On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 11:54 AM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:
I tried to remove a couple of the nuts holding on the aileron hinge
bracket... the nuts kept spinning. My guess is they are stripped... and I
will have to drill them out. Are these nuts to be torqued to as specific
setting?

Roland
R56


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[rebel-builders] Torqueing Lock Nuts

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:46 pm
by craig
Roland, if it's not too much trouble, nut plates back there are much easier
to work with than nuts. You'd have to CS the rivet(s) that hold them in
place because they're under the hinge bases but I think it's worth it.
Craig




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[rebel-builders] Torqueing Lock Nuts

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:46 pm
by Ron Shannon
Or better yet, IMHO, use Click Bond nutplates. Just one hole required, no
countersinking, etc. ACS stocks the 10/32 (-3) size, as does the US retail
outlet for all the Click Bond components: http://theflightshop.com

Ron


... You'd have to CS the rivet(s) that hold them in
place because they're under the hinge bases but I think it's worth it.
Craig



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[rebel-builders] Torqueing Lock Nuts

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:46 pm
by Jeff Micheal
Hi Roland,

One thing to check is the length of the bolts. Nuts/bolts usually strip
because of bottoming out and of coarse over torquing. A recheck of the
proper bolt length would be a good idea at this time.

Cheers,
Jeff


On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 11:54 AM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:
I tried to remove a couple of the nuts holding on the aileron hinge
bracket... the nuts kept spinning. My guess is they are stripped... and I
will have to drill them out. Are these nuts to be torqued to as specific
setting?

Roland
R56

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Micheal
Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 12:38 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE:
=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re=3A_=5Brebel=2Dbuilders=5D_He

Hi Bernard,

Here's the link for Sensenich and their recommendations for AC Type /
Engine
combination, http://www.sensenich.com/direct/murphy.htm But as always,
actual flight information may be the best source.

There are other options for propellers other than metal. Just ask the
rebel list, they can tell you what has and has not worked for their AC /
Engine combination.

Cheers,
Jeff


On Fri, Nov 13, 2009 at 1:58 PM, <bernard.liagre@dcsol.com> wrote:
thank you Jeff,
I read with pleasure what you've written, especially since it's rather
good
news.
Can you tell me what propeller should be better for an amphibious Elite,
I
think a senssenich, but for which O 320 A2B

Bernard


On 11/13/2009 10:45 AM, westcoastkitplanes@gmail.com wrote to rebel-
builders:

-> Hi Guys,
->
-> To the best of my knowledge (which is sometime good), there is only
one
cowl
-> (fiberglass) for the Elite and Rebel. The factory (MAM) did a change
up a
-> few years back to make one cowl fit both applications....... Elite and
-> Rebel.
->
-> Cheers,
-> Jeff
->
->
-> On Fri, Nov 13, 2009 at 10:28 AM, <bernard.liagre@dcsol.com> wrote:
->
-> > Hi Dennis
-> > thank you for your reply
-> > you confirm that there are specific caps for the Elite
-> > my engine is a 0 320
-> >
-> > Bernard
-> >
-> >
-> > On 11/13/2009 8:12 AM, croydonmac@gmail.com wrote to
rebel-builders:
-> >
-> > -> Hi Bernard
-> > -> Be careful that you get the newest model of cowl for the elite
not
a
-> > -> rebel cowl if you are using the O-360 thay are different and when
-> > -> fitting made sure you make the inlet openings as large as
possible
and
-> > -> make sure you have a large anofe exit area.
-> > ->
-> > ->
-> > ->
-> > -> Dennis Finley
-> > ->
-> > -> Elite Amphib C-FDYF
-> > ->
-> > ->
-> > ->
-> > ->
-> > -> 2009/11/13 <bernard.liagre@dcsol.com>:
-> > -> > Hello All,
-> > -> > I am on this list for several days, I read your messages, and I
must
-> > say
-> > that
-> > -> > from where I am, it feels good.
-> > -> > I built an Elite No 801, I am based in Biscarrosse in France
and
-> > outside a
-> > small
-> > -> > group of people, I feel very alone and far.
-> > -> > I share the same problems as many of you and I have many
technical
-> > issues
-> > -> > and the parts you have.
-> > -> > I should not have been able to join Murphy in recent months,
and
-> > thanks
-> > to
-> > -> > you, I understood why.
-> > -> > ССI have not come on this site to complain because I can
understand the
-> > -> > difficulties faced by Murphy and I will retain their
willingness
to
-> > help
-> > builders
-> > -> > complete their aircraft.
-> > -> > in France there is little seaplane and I fell in love with the
Elite
-> > for that. I
-> > -> > hope to fly with my Elite Floats and hopefully will have enough
for
-> > that
-> > (if my
-> > -> > wife has not left the by) ... I'm joking
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> > Question: I want to buy engine cowls for the Elite, is that
someone
-> > can
-> > tell
-> > -> > me if they agree Rebel
-> > -> >
-> > -> > thank you
-> > -> > Regards
-> > -> > Bernard
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
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-> > -> > ССList administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -> >
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-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
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-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
->




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