Thanks Ken. That must be an interesting design Steve has.
I find that with this wing, getting altitude loss is not much of a
problem - unless you get too much : ). Getting slower - if more flap
will do that - is a good and worthy objective.
Garry
Ken wrote:
[quote]Yes Steve can drop flaps and ailerons independently.
I might be seeing a similar power thing as you in that I'm likely
turning the Warp slower than it was really designed for. But it is nice
and quiet.
Ken
Garry Wright wrote:
[quote]Thanks Ken. I will check out these things and may make some adjustments.
I've never had a crosswind problem with mine and we do get lots of wind
around here. Probably as windy here as anywhere in Canada.
With my prop, I used to use EGT/CHT indications for leaning and
essentially tried to control fuel consumption and limit it to 7.3 gph
with limited success(O320 150 HP). It usually meant holding rpm to about
2350 at which point you can't get fast enough to use reflex effectively
on floats. With Walter's lead on fuel flow guages I installed one and
now run at my targeted fuel flow with lots of power and higher rpm
(around 2450 to as high as 2600 depending on altitude). That allows full
reflex of course and the gains inherent in that. I won't want to give up
any reflex to gain full downward deflection so my task might be tricky.
Your comment makes it sound like Steve can drop flaps and ailerons
independently - is that correct?
Garry
Ken wrote:
[quote]The bulletin with control movement specs says 15 degrees max flaperon
and I get 15 to 18 in flight as long as I slow to about 65 knots or
less. In the zero flap position they hang down at least an inch on the
ground. I have to select reflex to get them to fare with the wing in
order to install control locks on the ground. Mostly just a matter of
installing the cable tight enough so you have the room to adjust things.
The mixer lever arm has to be tight enough in the slot that it doesn't
twist too much. If you notice the outer teleflex moving sideways it
doesn't hurt to tie wrap it to the airframe ceiling where possible but
that is very minor. With my slow cruising speed I very rarely use reflex
but they do still reflex almost an inch at the trailing edge.
There is another thing going on on my aircraft. Perhaps my 3 blade Warp
prop in inefficient or something but the more power I have on, the more
the flaperons want to deflect with the spiraling prop wash and roll the
aircraft to the left. That and P factor, and a bit of engine torque,
sometimes surprises other pilots during takeoff. It also means that I
need right aileron trim in cruise to keep the flaperon deflection
neutral. This is heresy here but I think I'd like separate flaps as long
as I could still drop the ailerons like Steve Sloan does. That would
also reduce the required stick force to get full aileron deflection and
harmonize the controls better during crosswind ops IMO.
Ken
Garry Wright wrote:
[quote]Ken,
Can you elaborate a bit on the last paragraph on being sure the teleflex
cable is tensioned. I don't get full extension in flight and it is a
common complaint of rebel drivers - not that affects its flight that
much. I get full extension until the flaperons are wind loaded then
probably less than half.
Garry
Ken wrote:
[quote]Charlie
The archives has info on the mixer but sounds like Jeff has answered
that. I would not have remembered which way it goes but I do remember
working out the geometry at the time.
My curiosity about modifying the forward bellcrank would only apply if
the bellcrank was not centered on the control tube. It would be offset a
bit if I just drill a new hole and don't move the bellcrank. My
elevators are very light to move and fairly sensitive but it takes firm
side pressure to get full aileron in flight when the flaperons are down.
So just drilling the new hole might produce a tendency to move the
control stick forward or aft a bit when I apply aileron. That's my
excuse for not doing it yet anyway ;)
I would not be too concerned about perfection here. A half inch is not
very significant. I should take my own advice eh? Might be annoying when
you extend the flaps if the stick moves sideways but you probably
wouldn't notice after awhile. It is important to make sure the teleflex
cable is tensioned when you rig them though. ie don't rig them with the
teleflex holding the flaperons up or you will not get anywhere near full
extension in flight.
Ken
Charlie Eubanks wrote:
[quote]Hi Ken
You are right in that there are a number of things that could contribute to
the unevenness and difficultly in getting the controls properly rigged. I
followed all the steps in the manual I thought but it still a head
scratchier. My smaller push rods and the 2" torque tubes in the fuselage are
just clecoed so I can still do some adjusting, if I can figure out what to
do next.
The other item in your message about the mixer bell crank was a BIG surprise
to me. I can find nowhere in my manual any mention of the mixer bell crank
having a uneven hole pattern or that it could be installed backwards. I
assumed it to be symmetrical. I just checked the hole pattern and you are
correct. The holes for the two smaller push rods are a 1/8" different in
distance from the hole for the 1" push rod. If this info is a factor in the
successful rigging of the controls, on which side does it go? Was there
somewhere in the Rebel files an alert posted I may have missed? I guess it
still not to late but this info may have saved a lot of time and head aches
had I have known.
Sorry I can't answer your question about the modified bell cranks effect on
the elevator. I have yet to install the elevator or rudder cables. I would
be interested in your concern however.
Thanks for the heads up on the mixer bell crank.
Charlie E. 802R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <
klehman@albedo.net>
To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Adjusting Aileron/Flaps
[quote]A few other guys have mentioned this as well Charlie.
It might be due to the aileron horns being riveted on in slightly
different positions or the horns on the torque tube riveted on in
slightly different positions. If that is the case you may have to live
with it. Markedly different length push rods on the aileron horns will
also do it.
Another thing that could do it is if the mixer bellcrank is backwards.
That bellcrank is not quite symetrical and it is easy to install it
backwards.
On a separate issue:
With your modified bellcrank, do you notice any affect on the elevator
when you go full left or right aileron. I have been hesitant to make
that mod.
Ken
Charlie Eubanks wrote:
[quote]Hello all
I have a question on flap deployment.
Thanks to Ron Shannon I now have the correct length of Teleflex cable
installed in my Rebel. After modifying the hole location from 2-3/8" to
2"
on the newer bell crank I am now able to get 4" up (16.7