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[rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:37 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
It's because MAM made a new Rudder horn that was thicker than the
original... and then never changed the dimensions shown to build the fin to.

Is your fin already on the fuselage Joel? If not you can slot the existing
holes that the bottom hinge is bolted to... so you can move it down an 1/8th
or so...and make a little doubler to go behind the fin spar with clean holes
to hold the hinge there and rivet this doubler to the spar with a few
rivets. If the fin is already on the fuselage..... and I've done it a few
times over the years... take a piece of raw stock angle and make a new upper
hinge with a longer bolt face.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj7499@gmail.com>
To: "Rebel Builders" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:17 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Either that or my hinges are to close together. I can shove it in but
it's a tight fit and has lots of drag. Even tighter with the plastic
washer Wayne sent me some time back. looking for options to fix it. I
could remove the top hinge and use a small round file to make the spar
holes into 'slots' for a bit of adjustment. I could grind a small
amount off the faces of both hinges. Or maybe I should bite the bullet
and fab a new top hinge that has more clearance. What do you guys
think? Anyone dealt with this? Thanks much,
Joel
Rebel #416



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[rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:37 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
..or drill off the rudder horn and mill a few thou off of the contact area
and re-rivet it on.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

It's because MAM made a new Rudder horn that was thicker than the
original... and then never changed the dimensions shown to build the fin
to.

Is your fin already on the fuselage Joel? If not you can slot the existing
holes that the bottom hinge is bolted to... so you can move it down an
1/8th
or so...and make a little doubler to go behind the fin spar with clean
holes
to hold the hinge there and rivet this doubler to the spar with a few
rivets. If the fin is already on the fuselage..... and I've done it a few
times over the years... take a piece of raw stock angle and make a new
upper
hinge with a longer bolt face.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj7499@gmail.com>
To: "Rebel Builders" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:17 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Either that or my hinges are to close together. I can shove it in but
it's a tight fit and has lots of drag. Even tighter with the plastic
washer Wayne sent me some time back. looking for options to fix it. I
could remove the top hinge and use a small round file to make the spar
holes into 'slots' for a bit of adjustment. I could grind a small
amount off the faces of both hinges. Or maybe I should bite the bullet
and fab a new top hinge that has more clearance. What do you guys
think? Anyone dealt with this? Thanks much,
Joel
Rebel #416



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[rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:37 pm
by Joel Jacobs
Thanks for the ideas Wayne. The fin is already installed. I'm leaning
toward making a new top hinge.
Joel

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
..or drill off the rudder horn and mill a few thou off of the contact area
and re-rivet it on.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rudder is too long


It's because MAM made a new Rudder horn that was thicker than the
original... and then never changed the dimensions shown to build the fin
to.

Is your fin already on the fuselage Joel? If not you can slot the existing
holes that the bottom hinge is bolted to... so you can move it down an
1/8th
or so...and make a little doubler to go behind the fin spar with clean
holes
to hold the hinge there and rivet this doubler to the spar with a few
rivets. If the fin is already on the fuselage..... and I've done it a few
times over the years... take a piece of raw stock angle and make a new
upper
hinge with a longer bolt face.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj7499@gmail.com>
To: "Rebel Builders" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:17 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Rudder is too long


Either that or my hinges are to close together. I can shove it in but
it's a tight fit and has lots of drag. Even tighter with the plastic
washer Wayne sent me some time back. looking for options to fix it. I
could remove the top hinge and use a small round file to make the spar
holes into 'slots' for a bit of adjustment. I could grind a small
amount off the faces of both hinges. Or maybe I should bite the bullet
and fab a new top hinge that has more clearance. What do you guys
think? Anyone dealt with this? Thanks much,
Joel
Rebel #416



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[rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:37 pm
by Ken
Joel

FWIW I found that using a nylon washer that fit inside the rivet circle
on the bottom of the rudder instead of Wayne's large washer gave me
sufficient clearance. I keep an eye to may sure nothing rubs but it's
been fine.

Highly recommend that you incorporate a bronze bushing in the bottom
hinge if/when you change anything. All the foot pressure on the rudder
pedals pull on that bearing. Even my lightly loaded and frequently oiled
elevator pivots are starting to loosen up a bit at 300 hours so
eventually I will bush them as well.

Ken

Joel Jacobs wrote:
Thanks for the ideas Wayne. The fin is already installed. I'm leaning
toward making a new top hinge.
Joel

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
..or drill off the rudder horn and mill a few thou off of the contact area
and re-rivet it on.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rudder is too long


It's because MAM made a new Rudder horn that was thicker than the
original... and then never changed the dimensions shown to build the fin
to.

Is your fin already on the fuselage Joel? If not you can slot the existing
holes that the bottom hinge is bolted to... so you can move it down an
1/8th
or so...and make a little doubler to go behind the fin spar with clean
holes
to hold the hinge there and rivet this doubler to the spar with a few
rivets. If the fin is already on the fuselage..... and I've done it a few
times over the years... take a piece of raw stock angle and make a new
upper
hinge with a longer bolt face.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj7499@gmail.com>
To: "Rebel Builders" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:17 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Rudder is too long



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[rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:37 pm
by Joel Jacobs
Hmm, I have some bushing stock. Maybe I could make one with a
shoulder on top that would fit inside the rivet circle and not use the
washer.

Joel

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 4:50 PM, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:
[quote]Joel

FWIW I found that using a nylon washer that fit inside the rivet circle
on the bottom of the rudder instead of Wayne's large washer gave me
sufficient clearance. I keep an eye to may sure nothing rubs but it's
been fine.

Highly recommend that you incorporate a bronze bushing in the bottom
hinge if/when you change anything. All the foot pressure on the rudder
pedals pull on that bearing. Even my lightly loaded and frequently oiled
elevator pivots are starting to loosen up a bit at 300 hours so
eventually I will bush them as well.

Ken

Joel Jacobs wrote:
[quote]Thanks for the ideas Wayne.

[rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:37 pm
by Jeff Micheal
Joel,

Bushing is a great idea, but it's purpose is to prevent elongating the hole
in the bottom hinge bracket; I believe you will still need a nylon washer on
the bottom to prevent rubbing of the two parts.

Cheers,
Jeff


On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 2:56 PM, Joel Jacobs <jj7499@gmail.com> wrote:
Hmm, I have some bushing stock. Maybe I could make one with a
shoulder on top that would fit inside the rivet circle and not use the
washer.

Joel

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 4:50 PM, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:
Joel

FWIW I found that using a nylon washer that fit inside the rivet circle
on the bottom of the rudder instead of Wayne's large washer gave me
sufficient clearance. I keep an eye to may sure nothing rubs but it's
been fine.

Highly recommend that you incorporate a bronze bushing in the bottom
hinge if/when you change anything. All the foot pressure on the rudder
pedals pull on that bearing. Even my lightly loaded and frequently oiled
elevator pivots are starting to loosen up a bit at 300 hours so
eventually I will bush them as well.

Ken

Joel Jacobs wrote:
Thanks for the ideas Wayne. The fin is already installed. I'm leaning
toward making a new top hinge.
Joel

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
area
fin
existing
few
but
I
spar
bullet

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[rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:37 pm
by Joel Jacobs
Hi Jeff,
What I meant was to machine the bushing with a shoulder on top that
would fit just inside the rivet circle on the rudder. It would be
kinda like a bronze washer that would be part of the bushing. I will
have to get creative to get it pressed in though because my fin is
mounted and there is no way to get the hinge off now...

Joel

On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 7:29 PM, Jeff Micheal
<westcoastkitplanes@gmail.com> wrote:
[quote]Joel,

Bushing is a great idea, but it's purpose is to prevent elongating the hole
in the bottom hinge bracket; I believe you will still need a nylon washer on
the bottom to prevent rubbing of the two parts.

Cheers,
Jeff


On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 2:56 PM, Joel Jacobs <jj7499@gmail.com> wrote:

[quote]Hmm, I have some bushing stock.

[rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:37 pm
by Ken
Joel

I just stumbled across some 0.027" thick nylon washers that I used under
my rudder and possibly on the ailerons as well. 0.88"od x .25id. It is a
pain to grind/file the inner hole out to 3/8" but I'd be happy to drop
some in an envelope if you like. I also have some with a 3/8" id hole
and 0.063 thick. I must have bought a hundred of each when I was
mounting the controls so let me know if you think they would help.

Ken



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[rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:37 pm
by craig
Hi Ken,

I'm going to need some of those washer/pogs for mounting my controls. Can
you give me a source? Thanks, Craig




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[rebel-builders] Rudder is too long

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:37 pm
by Ken
Craig
I got the small nylon washers from Spaenaur. Places like MSC also should
have them. The only source for the large "pogs" is Wayne or scrapped
seat belt retractors AFAIK. The "pogs" were convenient to insert but
smaller diameter nylon washers work fine as long as you get enough of
them in to prevent the rivets in the end of the elevator horns etc. from
rubbing on the hinges. I can mail a few of the smaller ones if anyone
needs them but of course you won't know what you need until you assemble
them. Actually the small thin ones that I have look to be about the same
thing as the washers that MAM shipped with my kit for fabric vents on
the flaperons.
Ken

craig wrote:
Hi Ken,

I'm going to need some of those washer/pogs for mounting my controls. Can
you give me a source? Thanks, Craig

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