Rebel amphib question
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:36 pm
It been a while seen I have last flown my rebel. The snag list was getting to
long and I have finally gotten around to most of them.
Elevator trim horn doubler _ that one was the only easy one
Tail spar mod - Had to buy a used pancake drill and modify a riveter to get
that one done, and yes the 3 1/8 rivets were sheared. It really stiffened up
the horizontal stab when done.
Crack on door sill and skin fus 15 and fus 25 - replaced with .032. I ended
up buying a cheapo brake to make the channel since dealing with MAM
seemed like it was going to work. The steel pressing plate that came with it
made to sharp a bend even when moved back. To get the right radius on the
channel I filed a 3/16 alum flat bar to get the right 1/4" radius. Took a bit of
practice but worked out really well. I got my rivets from Matco and they
were great to deal with.
My aphib main gear had the cracks in the skins by the lower bolt. I put a
doubler of .032 on the cracks and 1/2x1/2 x 1 1/8 channel from the bolt to
the top of the rail. I had to peel back the bottom skin to do it. The floats
were still on the plane. This was a big job and would probably take 1/10 the
time to do while at the building stage. I also did the die spring mod so I
hope this will take care of the problem.
After reinstalling the gear the tire retracts about 1" above the bottom of the
keel. Is that high enough? I also had a bent cylinder shaft at the threaded
part. It straighten quite easily and to reinforce it I used one of the long nuts
used with redi rod cut down to the right length.
The bulkhead in front of the the front float strut had buckled. I pounded this
flat and reinforced it with .032 doubler and replace a few of the bottom
stiffeners. I did this through the deck plate openings but I think it would
have been easier to peel back the bottom skin.
I will post some pics in the file section
Ray
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long and I have finally gotten around to most of them.
Elevator trim horn doubler _ that one was the only easy one
Tail spar mod - Had to buy a used pancake drill and modify a riveter to get
that one done, and yes the 3 1/8 rivets were sheared. It really stiffened up
the horizontal stab when done.
Crack on door sill and skin fus 15 and fus 25 - replaced with .032. I ended
up buying a cheapo brake to make the channel since dealing with MAM
seemed like it was going to work. The steel pressing plate that came with it
made to sharp a bend even when moved back. To get the right radius on the
channel I filed a 3/16 alum flat bar to get the right 1/4" radius. Took a bit of
practice but worked out really well. I got my rivets from Matco and they
were great to deal with.
My aphib main gear had the cracks in the skins by the lower bolt. I put a
doubler of .032 on the cracks and 1/2x1/2 x 1 1/8 channel from the bolt to
the top of the rail. I had to peel back the bottom skin to do it. The floats
were still on the plane. This was a big job and would probably take 1/10 the
time to do while at the building stage. I also did the die spring mod so I
hope this will take care of the problem.
After reinstalling the gear the tire retracts about 1" above the bottom of the
keel. Is that high enough? I also had a bent cylinder shaft at the threaded
part. It straighten quite easily and to reinforce it I used one of the long nuts
used with redi rod cut down to the right length.
The bulkhead in front of the the front float strut had buckled. I pounded this
flat and reinforced it with .032 doubler and replace a few of the bottom
stiffeners. I did this through the deck plate openings but I think it would
have been easier to peel back the bottom skin.
I will post some pics in the file section
Ray
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username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
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