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Your following message has been delivered to the 162 members of
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Walter, it is the drilled axles and filling the entire wheel assembly with
grease, that makes the difference. If the wheel is not full of grease, it
will be full of water. If full of water, it works like a centrifuge and
washes the grease off of the bearings so they run bare, steel on steel! If
you keep the wheel right full of grease, the water can not get in! Howard's
were Chrome Plated right from the start (as supplied from MAM in the
Cleveland wheels) and the first set only lasted 3 months (about 6 landings
and take offs on land). Maybe the steel ones <would> hold up if the wheel
was full of grease, but I'm not going to take the chance. FWIW your
pre-built floats should come with Chrome plated bearings in the wheels
anyway (if MAM is still buying and supplying this wheel model). You will
know for sure when you pull the axles out, to drill them for grease nipples!
I don't know why MAM doesn't do this with the supplied axles. It only takes
about 20 minutes to drill the tee shaped grease channels and tap the pair
for grease nipples!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@home.com>
To: "(Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 9:00 AM
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Amphib Wheel Bearings]

Looks like my email had been dropped from the list server and I wasn't
getting any messages for a few days. I "joined" again, and am resending
this previous post, as I don't believe it got through.

It's a question for Wayne O., if you could just read below.


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Amphib Wheel Bearings
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 2000 10:34:46 -0800
From: Walter Klatt <Walter.Klatt@home.com>
Organization: @Home Network
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>

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Wayne, would you attribute the bearings lasting 3 years more to the use
of the chrome
plated upgrade or to the drilled axles? Has there been any experience
with drilled axles
using regular steel bearings?

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

Bob (and All),

Lots of places (including my local guy) stock the 08125 bearings in

plain

steel, but since Howard's Chrome plated ones have lasted 3 years without

any

problem (since I drilled his axles to fill the wheels with grease), I

don't

want to try plain steel ones like the disintigrated ones I removed from
FOKM. I would rather spend the extra $340 on bearings ($100.00/bearing

vs

about $15.00 for steel) than the labour TWICE per summer to change them

if

using plain steel! Stainless may even be better if available, I should

look

into that and see if they are available (and at what cost)!

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Just a comment to the wheel bearings. In a Lake amphib with the axles and
wheel full of grease I still had to replace bearings. Grease did become mixed
with water, what a gooey mess, and I couldn't believe the added weight! I'm
not sure how long it had been since the grease had been changed before, but
each time after that it was just as bad(at annual) although we didn't have to
replace any bearings. Bill Kelly, my partner in building, did a bearing study
for General Motors. The basic conclusion was that the bearing that had to
much grease went bad almost as fast as a bearing with no grease! Apparently
the bearing oxidization is as much a part of the lurication as the grease. I
guess it another example of to much of a good thing. I am interested in the
stainless bearing idea though, as those properly lubed sound like they will
go a long way. Food for thought, have you ever heard of a someone with a
trailer with the buddy bearing system having to replace the bearings? I have,
and the guy was always adding ju
st a little more grease to them. It's not just the grease. My .02 Curt N97MR

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Your following message has been delivered to the 164 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 17:17:17 on 10 Nov 2000.
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But was the guy using the proper water proof synthetic grease for boat
trailer bearings in his bearing buddies, or just some chassis grease that he
had in a grease gun on the garage wall???? I just completed Howard's annual
after another season of "water playing". About 10 shots of grease (that when
new is a reddish/pink colour) made about the same amount of pinky/orange
grease come out the other side. Yes this grease had a bit of moisture in it,
but definitely wasn't a mushy/gooey mess. The wheel bearings are still
rolling fine after 3 full summers of use, with lots take offs/landing in the
water and on land. Compare that to the 3 months they lasted the first time
and I will stick with this method. It seems to work so why change until
someone finds a better method. FWIW, the aircraft also has a DEDICATED
grease gun that rides in the a/c at all times. This alleviates any
temptation to use someone else's unknown grease (like the A&P/AME's
Aeroshell #5 or #6 that is for chassis and c/s props, but not engineered for
underwater use) or the use of the A/C's grease gun for other things around
the house!

If you don't fill the wheel with grease the bearings will be spin washed
clean, from the water that fills the wheel. There is no way to do anything
in between, filling the wheel or just greasing the bearing, without changing
to a "proper" amphib wheel like you see on some certified amphibs (kind of a
spoked wheel with sealed bearing cavities). And FWIW, a wheel full of water
is smidgen heavier than a wheel full of grease!

See ya Sunday Curt (and others)!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebflyer@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2000 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Amphib Wheel Bearings]

Just a comment to the wheel bearings. In a Lake amphib with the axles and
wheel full of grease I still had to replace bearings. Grease did become

mixed

with water, what a gooey mess, and I couldn't believe the added weight!

I'm

not sure how long it had been since the grease had been changed before,

but

each time after that it was just as bad(at annual) although we didn't have

to

replace any bearings. Bill Kelly, my partner in building, did a bearing

study

for General Motors. The basic conclusion was that the bearing that had to
much grease went bad almost as fast as a bearing with no grease!

Apparently

the bearing oxidization is as much a part of the lurication as the grease.

I

guess it another example of to much of a good thing. I am interested in

the

stainless bearing idea though, as those properly lubed sound like they

will

go a long way. Food for thought, have you ever heard of a someone with a
trailer with the buddy bearing system having to replace the bearings? I

have,

and the guy was always adding ju
st a little more grease to them. It's not just the grease. My .02 Curt

N97MR
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Your following message has been delivered to the 167 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 12:58:43 on 22 Nov 2000.
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Hello ALL,

Just in case anyone is <actually> taking my suggestion to drill the main
axles (on the Amphib floats) for grease fittings, I though I had better add
this BEFORE I received any C4 or "ticking" packages in the mail!

There is an aluminum spacer that goes under the axle nut and washer. This
spacer must be turned down from the 1 3/4" size that allows it to seal off
the dust felt, to about 1 5/8" O.D. If you don't put this 1/16th" clearance
between this spacer and the dust felt you will blow the felts, washers and
retainer rings out of the wheels when you fill the wheel with grease! I
reminded myself of this small modification, this morning, the HARD WAY!

Easy to turn them down if you have access to a lathe and a 1" diameter bolt
and nut to mount the spacers on. Chuck in the lathe and turn them down.

Tips on the initial wheel grease filling are to use a tongue depressor (or
similar) and fill the wheel cavity around the perimeter with grease up to
the bearing cones. Then hand pack the taper bearings and install them on the
brake side of the wheel. Dust felt washer, dust felt and another washer,
then the retainer ring. Install the axle and then the bearing, dust felts
etc on the nut side. Install the spacer, washer, axle nut and tighten by
hand while rotating the assembly. Then snug up the nut and cotter pin in
place. Then slowly pump grease through the nipple WHILE rotating the
assembly, until some grease starts to ozz out at the nut side. You will find
that grease will continue to ozz out for awhile, even after you have cleaned
it off once or twice. If it doesn't ozz after cleaning, then the wheel is
not full of grease and has air pockets in it. Give it a few more pumps of
grease and once again rotate it a few turns to help the grease ozz by the
retainer nut washer. It only takes about 2 grease cartridges to fully fill
BOTH wheels, although I would buy a total of 6 so you have the same grease
for that DEDICATED grease gun to cover you for a few years down the "Lake"
(as you had better not be on the road!).

Yes, I obviously <FINALLY> got my Chrome Plated 08125-CP taper bearings and
08231-CP cones on Monday after a FOUR and a HALF MONTH wait. Ordered them
July the 5th. Sure glad it wasn't a customers Rebel that had come in for a
quick bearing change in the Summer, as we have now received just about 3
feet of snow since Friday (and it's still coming down) UGGGH! I don't think
C-FOKM is going to get the new motor broken in this year, so now I have to
figure out how to corrosion proof all that nice bare steel on it's $20,000
ZERO'd engine!

Can anyone (Curt maybe) that is building a set of MAM amphibs right now
confirm what bearings they received with their kit, in the Clevland wheels.
If they are Chrome plated, the bearing with have a CP after the 08125. The
CP can be nice letters, done like like the part number, or just engraved in
someones hand writting. If there is no CP, then you have steel bearings.
FWIW, the steel bearings are only about $10Cdn and available the same day
you walk into the bearing supply house. The Chrome Plated ones (my OEM cost)
are $70 bearing and $30 cone. That's $200 per wheel for the bearings. They
took 4 1/2 months to get this time, the last set I bought (3 years ago) took
3 weeks to get. Thank god I ordered two sets this time, so I am ready with
the next set when (if) they are needed!

It all depends what you time is worth guys and gals! Would you rather be
flying it, or lying under it changing steel wheel bearings twice a year? My
2 cents! (or should I say $400)

Blue skies (hopefully soon!),
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca




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Your following message has been delivered to the 167 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 17:07:01 on 22 Nov 2000.
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Just to add, one other very good reason for giving the grease a place to
ooze (note that my wife corrected my spelling, again!) out on the nut side
by relieving the spacer. This will make sure that the grease does not ooze
out on the brake disc side. It would be very hard to clean up on that side,
and you definitely don't want any grease getting onto the brake disc and
pads!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca


----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Amphib Wheel Bearings]

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Your following message has been delivered to the 167 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 12:58:43 on 22 Nov 2000.
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Hello ALL,

Just in case anyone is <actually> taking my suggestion to drill the main
axles (on the Amphib floats) for grease fittings, I though I had better

add

this BEFORE I received any C4 or "ticking" packages in the mail!

There is an aluminum spacer that goes under the axle nut and washer. This
spacer must be turned down from the 1 3/4" size that allows it to seal off
the dust felt, to about 1 5/8" O.D. If you don't put this 1/16th"

clearance

between this spacer and the dust felt you will blow the felts, washers and
retainer rings out of the wheels when you fill the wheel with grease! I
reminded myself of this small modification, this morning, the HARD WAY!

Easy to turn them down if you have access to a lathe and a 1" diameter

bolt

and nut to mount the spacers on. Chuck in the lathe and turn them down.

Tips on the initial wheel grease filling are to use a tongue depressor (or
similar) and fill the wheel cavity around the perimeter with grease up to
the bearing cones. Then hand pack the taper bearings and install them on

the

brake side of the wheel. Dust felt washer, dust felt and another washer,
then the retainer ring. Install the axle and then the bearing, dust felts
etc on the nut side. Install the spacer, washer, axle nut and tighten by
hand while rotating the assembly. Then snug up the nut and cotter pin in
place. Then slowly pump grease through the nipple WHILE rotating the
assembly, until some grease starts to ozz out at the nut side. You will

find

that grease will continue to ozz out for awhile, even after you have

cleaned

it off once or twice. If it doesn't ozz after cleaning, then the wheel is
not full of grease and has air pockets in it. Give it a few more pumps of
grease and once again rotate it a few turns to help the grease ozz by the
retainer nut washer. It only takes about 2 grease cartridges to fully fill
BOTH wheels, although I would buy a total of 6 so you have the same grease
for that DEDICATED grease gun to cover you for a few years down the "Lake"
(as you had better not be on the road!).

Yes, I obviously <FINALLY> got my Chrome Plated 08125-CP taper bearings

and

08231-CP cones on Monday after a FOUR and a HALF MONTH wait. Ordered them
July the 5th. Sure glad it wasn't a customers Rebel that had come in for a
quick bearing change in the Summer, as we have now received just about 3
feet of snow since Friday (and it's still coming down) UGGGH! I don't

think

C-FOKM is going to get the new motor broken in this year, so now I have to
figure out how to corrosion proof all that nice bare steel on it's $20,000
ZERO'd engine!

Can anyone (Curt maybe) that is building a set of MAM amphibs right now
confirm what bearings they received with their kit, in the Clevland

wheels.

If they are Chrome plated, the bearing with have a CP after the 08125. The
CP can be nice letters, done like like the part number, or just engraved

in

someones hand writting. If there is no CP, then you have steel bearings.
FWIW, the steel bearings are only about $10Cdn and available the same day
you walk into the bearing supply house. The Chrome Plated ones (my OEM

cost)

are $70 bearing and $30 cone. That's $200 per wheel for the bearings. They
took 4 1/2 months to get this time, the last set I bought (3 years ago)

took

3 weeks to get. Thank god I ordered two sets this time, so I am ready with
the next set when (if) they are needed!

It all depends what you time is worth guys and gals! Would you rather be
flying it, or lying under it changing steel wheel bearings twice a year?

My

2 cents! (or should I say $400)

Blue skies (hopefully soon!),
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

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Wayne

Yup float kit 43 of Mar98 has the CP bearings (etched by hand) installed
in a set of 500x5 Cleveland wheels. Cleveland or MAM have got to be
getting a substantial discount on the price.

Ken

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

snip>
Can anyone (Curt maybe) that is building a set of MAM amphibs right now
confirm what bearings they received with their kit, in the Clevland wheels.

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Your following message has been delivered to the 167 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 17:19:51 on 23 Nov 2000.
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Ken and ALL,

MAM must be buying the wheels this way from Cleveland, as I know MAM does
not sell the bearings. That was my first place to try when I ordered all the
MAM parts I needed to refurb C-FOKM and I got a "don't carry" from Elaine. I
would imagine that the wheels with the CP bearings already installed are
costing MAM at least $250Cdn more per set, than wheels with standard steel
bearings (but of course I could be wrong!). If you look in A/C spruce's
catalogue, they try to sell you "lower priced" (at $775 U.S a set, I may
add) Clevelands with steel bearings "as they are a low cost alternative for
homebuilts" instead of buying Cleveland wheels with chrome plated bearings.
Isn't it funny how inferior stuff is always "suitable for homebuilt use"!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: <klehman@albedo.net>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: Amphib Wheel Bearings]

Wayne

Yup float kit 43 of Mar98 has the CP bearings (etched by hand) installed
in a set of 500x5 Cleveland wheels. Cleveland or MAM have got to be
getting a substantial discount on the price.

Ken

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

snip>
Can anyone (Curt maybe) that is building a set of MAM amphibs right now
confirm what bearings they received with their kit, in the Clevland

wheels.
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Well I'm feeling a little ripped off now I've got plain steel bearings with
kit #82 that I received aug.18 I guess thats what you get when you buy your
floats on sale. By the way my front wheel bearings are chinese 1628RS which
I assume are plain steel as well. How well are nosewheel bearings standing
up? Wayne do you drill the front axles too?
Drew Dalgleish

At 12:53 PM 11/22/00 -0500, you wrote:

Hello ALL,

Just in case anyone is <actually> taking my suggestion to drill the main
axles (on the Amphib floats) for grease fittings, I though I had better add
this BEFORE I received any C4 or "ticking" packages in the mail!

There is an aluminum spacer that goes under the axle nut and washer. This
spacer must be turned down from the 1 3/4" size that allows it to seal off
the dust felt, to about 1 5/8" O.D. If you don't put this 1/16th" clearance
between this spacer and the dust felt you will blow the felts, washers and
retainer rings out of the wheels when you fill the wheel with grease! I
reminded myself of this small modification, this morning, the HARD WAY!

Easy to turn them down if you have access to a lathe and a 1" diameter bolt
and nut to mount the spacers on. Chuck in the lathe and turn them down.

Tips on the initial wheel grease filling are to use a tongue depressor (or
similar) and fill the wheel cavity around the perimeter with grease up to
the bearing cones. Then hand pack the taper bearings and install them on the
brake side of the wheel. Dust felt washer, dust felt and another washer,
then the retainer ring. Install the axle and then the bearing, dust felts
etc on the nut side. Install the spacer, washer, axle nut and tighten by
hand while rotating the assembly. Then snug up the nut and cotter pin in
place. Then slowly pump grease through the nipple WHILE rotating the
assembly, until some grease starts to ozz out at the nut side. You will find
that grease will continue to ozz out for awhile, even after you have cleaned
it off once or twice. If it doesn't ozz after cleaning, then the wheel is
not full of grease and has air pockets in it. Give it a few more pumps of
grease and once again rotate it a few turns to help the grease ozz by the
retainer nut washer. It only takes about 2 grease cartridges to fully fill
BOTH wheels, although I would buy a total of 6 so you have the same grease
for that DEDICATED grease gun to cover you for a few years down the "Lake"
(as you had better not be on the road!).

Yes, I obviously <FINALLY> got my Chrome Plated 08125-CP taper bearings and
08231-CP cones on Monday after a FOUR and a HALF MONTH wait. Ordered them
July the 5th. Sure glad it wasn't a customers Rebel that had come in for a
quick bearing change in the Summer, as we have now received just about 3
feet of snow since Friday (and it's still coming down) UGGGH! I don't think
C-FOKM is going to get the new motor broken in this year, so now I have to
figure out how to corrosion proof all that nice bare steel on it's $20,000
ZERO'd engine!

Can anyone (Curt maybe) that is building a set of MAM amphibs right now
confirm what bearings they received with their kit, in the Clevland wheels.
If they are Chrome plated, the bearing with have a CP after the 08125. The
CP can be nice letters, done like like the part number, or just engraved in
someones hand writting. If there is no CP, then you have steel bearings.
FWIW, the steel bearings are only about $10Cdn and available the same day
you walk into the bearing supply house. The Chrome Plated ones (my OEM cost)
are $70 bearing and $30 cone. That's $200 per wheel for the bearings. They
took 4 1/2 months to get this time, the last set I bought (3 years ago) took
3 weeks to get. Thank god I ordered two sets this time, so I am ready with
the next set when (if) they are needed!

It all depends what you time is worth guys and gals! Would you rather be
flying it, or lying under it changing steel wheel bearings twice a year? My
2 cents! (or should I say $400)

Blue skies (hopefully soon!),
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca




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Hi Wayne
Is this aluminum spacer part of the kit because I didn't get one and grant
tells me it's not required. Theres about 3/16" gap between the felt and the
axle nut. I think the felt might squish into the middle once I start
pumping grease into the axle.
Drew

At 12:53 PM 11/22/00 -0500, you wrote:

Hello ALL,

Just in case anyone is <actually> taking my suggestion to drill the main
axles (on the Amphib floats) for grease fittings, I though I had better add
this BEFORE I received any C4 or "ticking" packages in the mail!

There is an aluminum spacer that goes under the axle nut and washer. This
spacer must be turned down from the 1 3/4" size that allows it to seal off
the dust felt, to about 1 5/8" O.D. If you don't put this 1/16th" clearance
between this spacer and the dust felt you will blow the felts, washers and
retainer rings out of the wheels when you fill the wheel with grease! I
reminded myself of this small modification, this morning, the HARD WAY!

Easy to turn them down if you have access to a lathe and a 1" diameter bolt
and nut to mount the spacers on. Chuck in the lathe and turn them down.

Tips on the initial wheel grease filling are to use a tongue depressor (or
similar) and fill the wheel cavity around the perimeter with grease up to
the bearing cones. Then hand pack the taper bearings and install them on the
brake side of the wheel. Dust felt washer, dust felt and another washer,
then the retainer ring. Install the axle and then the bearing, dust felts
etc on the nut side. Install the spacer, washer, axle nut and tighten by
hand while rotating the assembly. Then snug up the nut and cotter pin in
place. Then slowly pump grease through the nipple WHILE rotating the
assembly, until some grease starts to ozz out at the nut side. You will find
that grease will continue to ozz out for awhile, even after you have cleaned
it off once or twice. If it doesn't ozz after cleaning, then the wheel is
not full of grease and has air pockets in it. Give it a few more pumps of
grease and once again rotate it a few turns to help the grease ozz by the
retainer nut washer. It only takes about 2 grease cartridges to fully fill
BOTH wheels, although I would buy a total of 6 so you have the same grease
for that DEDICATED grease gun to cover you for a few years down the "Lake"
(as you had better not be on the road!).

Yes, I obviously <FINALLY> got my Chrome Plated 08125-CP taper bearings and
08231-CP cones on Monday after a FOUR and a HALF MONTH wait. Ordered them
July the 5th. Sure glad it wasn't a customers Rebel that had come in for a
quick bearing change in the Summer, as we have now received just about 3
feet of snow since Friday (and it's still coming down) UGGGH! I don't think
C-FOKM is going to get the new motor broken in this year, so now I have to
figure out how to corrosion proof all that nice bare steel on it's $20,000
ZERO'd engine!

Can anyone (Curt maybe) that is building a set of MAM amphibs right now
confirm what bearings they received with their kit, in the Clevland wheels.
If they are Chrome plated, the bearing with have a CP after the 08125. The
CP can be nice letters, done like like the part number, or just engraved in
someones hand writting. If there is no CP, then you have steel bearings.
FWIW, the steel bearings are only about $10Cdn and available the same day
you walk into the bearing supply house. The Chrome Plated ones (my OEM cost)
are $70 bearing and $30 cone. That's $200 per wheel for the bearings. They
took 4 1/2 months to get this time, the last set I bought (3 years ago) took
3 weeks to get. Thank god I ordered two sets this time, so I am ready with
the next set when (if) they are needed!

It all depends what you time is worth guys and gals! Would you rather be
flying it, or lying under it changing steel wheel bearings twice a year? My
2 cents! (or should I say $400)

Blue skies (hopefully soon!),
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca




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Your following message has been delivered to the 184 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 16:51:14 on 15 Feb 2001.
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Drew, They came in the early kits (and it is shown in the original assembly
drawings). On Howard's however, the spacers that we received were quite a
bit undersize and we just figured MAM had supplied the wrong ones. We had a
guy make new (larger O.D.) ones up from bar stock. I figure what's the sense
of even having the "dust" seal if you don't use it (ie: leaving a 3/16" gap
defeats it purpose totally). The grease won't blow the seal out because of
the 3/16 gap. It will actually let the grease flow around it really easy.
HOWEVER, it WILL allow the water/sand/seaweed etc to flow in to the bearings
with ease also!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew and Jan" <drewjan@execulink.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Amphib Wheel Bearings]

Hi Wayne
Is this aluminum spacer part of the kit because I didn't get one and grant
tells me it's not required. Theres about 3/16" gap between the felt and

the

axle nut. I think the felt might squish into the middle once I start
pumping grease into the axle.
Drew

At 12:53 PM 11/22/00 -0500, you wrote:

Hello ALL,

Just in case anyone is <actually> taking my suggestion to drill the main
axles (on the Amphib floats) for grease fittings, I though I had better

add

this BEFORE I received any C4 or "ticking" packages in the mail!

There is an aluminum spacer that goes under the axle nut and washer. This
spacer must be turned down from the 1 3/4" size that allows it to seal

off

the dust felt, to about 1 5/8" O.D. If you don't put this 1/16th"

clearance

between this spacer and the dust felt you will blow the felts, washers

and

retainer rings out of the wheels when you fill the wheel with grease! I
reminded myself of this small modification, this morning, the HARD WAY!

Easy to turn them down if you have access to a lathe and a 1" diameter

bolt

and nut to mount the spacers on. Chuck in the lathe and turn them down.

Tips on the initial wheel grease filling are to use a tongue depressor

(or

similar) and fill the wheel cavity around the perimeter with grease up to
the bearing cones. Then hand pack the taper bearings and install them on

the

brake side of the wheel. Dust felt washer, dust felt and another washer,
then the retainer ring. Install the axle and then the bearing, dust felts
etc on the nut side. Install the spacer, washer, axle nut and tighten by
hand while rotating the assembly. Then snug up the nut and cotter pin in
place. Then slowly pump grease through the nipple WHILE rotating the
assembly, until some grease starts to ozz out at the nut side. You will

find

that grease will continue to ozz out for awhile, even after you have

cleaned

it off once or twice. If it doesn't ozz after cleaning, then the wheel is
not full of grease and has air pockets in it. Give it a few more pumps of
grease and once again rotate it a few turns to help the grease ozz by the
retainer nut washer. It only takes about 2 grease cartridges to fully

fill

BOTH wheels, although I would buy a total of 6 so you have the same

grease

for that DEDICATED grease gun to cover you for a few years down the

"Lake"

(as you had better not be on the road!).

Yes, I obviously <FINALLY> got my Chrome Plated 08125-CP taper bearings

and

08231-CP cones on Monday after a FOUR and a HALF MONTH wait. Ordered them
July the 5th. Sure glad it wasn't a customers Rebel that had come in for

a

quick bearing change in the Summer, as we have now received just about 3
feet of snow since Friday (and it's still coming down) UGGGH! I don't

think

C-FOKM is going to get the new motor broken in this year, so now I have

to

figure out how to corrosion proof all that nice bare steel on it's

$20,000

ZERO'd engine!

Can anyone (Curt maybe) that is building a set of MAM amphibs right now
confirm what bearings they received with their kit, in the Clevland

wheels.

If they are Chrome plated, the bearing with have a CP after the 08125.

The

CP can be nice letters, done like like the part number, or just engraved

in

someones hand writting. If there is no CP, then you have steel bearings.
FWIW, the steel bearings are only about $10Cdn and available the same day
you walk into the bearing supply house. The Chrome Plated ones (my OEM

cost)

are $70 bearing and $30 cone. That's $200 per wheel for the bearings.

They

took 4 1/2 months to get this time, the last set I bought (3 years ago)

took

3 weeks to get. Thank god I ordered two sets this time, so I am ready

with

the next set when (if) they are needed!

It all depends what you time is worth guys and gals! Would you rather be
flying it, or lying under it changing steel wheel bearings twice a year?

My

2 cents! (or should I say $400)

Blue skies (hopefully soon!),
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

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The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
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---------*
-----------------------------------------------------
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Thanks Wayne I found a peice of radiator hose that fits tight on the nut
and fills the gap nicely. I just finished pumping the wheel full of grease
and everything worked out fine.
Drew


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