--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 161 members of
the list
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 19:50:15 on 5 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHAT'S A REAMER??
Seriously, there really isn't anywhere on the Rebel/Elite to get too worried
about, or carried away, reaming holes. Mostly just a waste of time, if using
good drill bits. All those spar cap holes etc, just drill, debur, EP420 (or
what have you), coat the bolt shank, insert in hole, washer(s) and nut, then
tighten. The epoxy will fill the extra <minor> spaces and also keep the
moisture/corrosion out! The #12 hole may get a little tight on the 1/2" plus
distance on the spar cap strips so you may have to use a #11 drill, but #12
works really good on things like the stab attach brackets etc, that get
bolted in, to take any play out of the assembly. May not be too many of
these on the Elite's cantilever tail though, as compared to the Rebel's
"foldable" tail feathers.
Thanks for the comment about the Trumpeter Swan article. I found it read a
little choppy after Garth did his editorial "hacking", but I guess he had to
make it fit the page. I think the article was beneficial all around, for the
Swan program, for Homebuilders, free advertising for me AND Murphy Aircraft!
Also a good place for the story to be displayed to show the certified owners
some of the benefits to flying a high quality Homebuilt (if they bother to
read that section!). I don't know of any "Spam Can" that can do NINETY
degree bank turns to circle a swan, at a height that I probably could have
trolled for fish from, while the A/S indicator was pegged at ZERO (lets just
say that the picture of the swans <COULD> have been taken from the air,
<WITHOUT> a telephoto lens!). As long as the engine is making power in my
Rebel (and I presume most of the others), it will not stall or roll over on
it's back like a Cessna would!
Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ricker" <
ricker@dbis.ns.ca>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2000 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: Aileron/Flap Hinge Mount Fit?
Hi Wayne
Yeah, it is hard to not approach this like an Engineer since we are
programmed to think
that way! That said, it does seem unusual that the spar and the hinge
would be
fabricated on CNC (very precise) tooling and not come out with the same
spacing.....I am
sure these things would save Murphy some time on the tech support line.
Your answer though is exactly what I was looking for, a method that has
been proven to
work. I was concerned that if the hinge was biased one way or the other
there would be
interference problems etc. I was also doing the Engineer thing and being
cautious before
cutting metal! I'll try your suggestion for the #12 drill for the bolts
also. By the
way, do you also do this where a reamed hole is called for, since it would
be quicker?
Interesting your comment about Murphy responding to inquires, lately I
have been
disappointed in the quantity and quality of response I have received to
tech inquiries
via e-mail. I'll leave it at that but perhaps a gentle question or two
from Bob P., our
"inside" connection would shed some light on this.......is that possible
Bob? (Bob, if
you want to talk details, we can do it off - line.)
BTW, nice write-up in the latest COPA News, by the sound of it not only
are you
cultivating a good flock of Rebels but the other amphib fliers have found
a nice home
there too!
Thanks again,
Dave R.
Elite 583
Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
Dave, I know it's hard for us engineering types, but you need to set
aside
your vernier and use it just to verify sheet thickness', when making
parts
from unmarked sheets. I think to quote Darryl is "we are not building a
Swiss watch, but we are not building a bridge either!"
As for the hinges, I always drill the top hole and then bolt the hinge
bracket in place. Then I use the hinge bracket as a guide to drill the
bottom hole to #12. It is not a necessity if you don't have a full # bit
set, but you will find a #12 leaves no "slop" for a bolt compared to a
#11
hole. I always use a #12 drill for bolts and a #11 for rivets.
Since you have not drilled your holes out yet, you have nothing to worry
about. Drill the top hole, bolt the bracket in place and, using the
bracket
as a guide, drill the bottom hole the .028 lower than that predrilled
#40
hole (that will be gone once you drill the #12 or #11 hole).
As for MAM "giving" me something for my time spent helping builders,
Colleen
is pretty good to me when I need stuff for refurbs and rebuilds (and
that
covers a <VERY> small portion of my time spent on this list server),
although what I would really like is a link from MAM's website to mine
to
sell finished/flying Rebels, but Darryl can't be bothered to respond to
my
requests or e-mails. Sometimes I wonder why I bother, but it is a GREAT
little aircraft and I just can't seem to turn my back on it!
Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ricker" <
ricker@dbis.ns.ca>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 1:35 PM
Subject: Aileron/Flap Hinge Mount Fit?
Hi Folks
We are in the process of building the first wing of our Elite and have
a
question about
the fit of the Aileron/Flap Hinge Mount (W125), I am pretty sure this
applies to all
Rebels and not just the Elite though.
Specifically the manual tells us to drill the hinge mounting points in
the
backing plates
out to #11, presumably to match the hinges. The problem comes in the
match up to the
hinges, the centre distance of the existing holes in the rear spar is
3.940" while the
mounting holes in hinge are 3.968 a difference of .028", which is the
correct spacing and
how have you resolved this? I see the options to be: a) file the spar
centres out to the
correct spacing of the hinges since the holes are still "40, or b)
bend
the hinges to
meet the spar. I am concerned at making the wrong adjustment and
having a
poor fit of
the flap/ailerons.
Any suggestions? Has anyone else had this problem and how did you
resolve
it? Wayne,
you have probably built more Rebel wings as anyone here, any
suggestions?
(Murphy should
give you something for the time you spend helping builders but perhaps
more about that
later...)
Thanks
Dave R.
--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
DARTEC Engineering Inc.
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
DARTEC Engineering Inc.
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at:
https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe:
rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator:
mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------