[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

[Rebecca Brownell]

Thanks Craig ,they are sold
Jason
On 19-Aug-08, at 4:12 AM, Craig Walls wrote:

Jason,
There was a built set of MAM 1800 amphibs for sale 2 weeks ago in
Dowagiac
MI. (close to Kalamazoo) $23,000. I saw the add on Barnstormers
and can't
find it now but they may still be out there. It's a start.... Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Rebecca Brownell
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 3:54 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Hi all
does anyone know of a set of 1800 amphibs out there that may be
available?New,used, built, not built,doesn't matter.
I'm on the "list" to get a set if there are 9 others who want them but
I hate the thought of going without floats for very long
after the plane is done.Will take them immediately if I can find
them.Or if anyone knows of a suitable alternative that
weighs about the same as the 1800 please let me know.

Thanks so much
Jason
817R



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[Randy McCallum]

Hi JasonI have a pair of 1800 Aerocomp super float amphibs for sale. They came off of a Taylorcraft and I was going to put them on my Rebel but I have both the plane and the floats for sale. The floats are in great shape but would have to be rigged for your Rebel. You can get more information on the floats from their website http://compairasia.com/floats/photo4.htm & http://mireley.net/glcompair/floats.htm I am asking $11,900 for them. They are in my hanger at Burlington Air Park, Ontario, Canada. If you want any more information let me know.Randy52R

From: brownell@candlelight.ca> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com> Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs> Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 19:53:35 -0400> > Hi all> does anyone know of a set of 1800 amphibs out there that may be > available?New,used, built, not built,doesn't matter.> I'm on the "list" to get a set if there are 9 others who want them but > I hate the thought of going without floats for very long> after the plane is done.Will take them immediately if I can find > them.Or if anyone knows of a suitable alternative that> weighs about the same as the 1800 please let me know.> > Thanks so much> Jason> 817R> > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------> List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login> username "rebel" password "builder"> Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com> List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com> -----------------------------------------------------------------> > >

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[Ken]

Jason

I have an older 1995 manual.

If you mean bulkhead LB, I have a diagram (fig. 16f) that measures down
the middle 16 1/4 to the bend line. It also shows up the side edge 3 1/8
to the cut line with the bend line being 5/8 above that at the side edge
of the bulkhead.

I used those measurement without difficulty. The only important
measurement is the 16 1/4 down which is given in the text as well as
that diagram. All the bottom V angles are the same and you want a 5/8
flange on the bottom after you bend it.

The only problem I had with cut down bulkheads was bulkhead I as in
india which was about .1" too short top to bottom for some reason. I put
a .1" thick aluminum bar between the bottom skin and the bottom of the
bulkhead to fix that and keep the bottom skin flat.

Oh one more caution. Keep the flanges as tight to the bottom outboard
corner of the bulkheads as you can. I had a few places where I had to
put doublers in the corners as the rivet holes did not have adequate
edge distance. Trim the corners of the flanges after you bend the bottom
flanges and don't trim them at 90 degrees if an angle will let them
extend further into the corner. Especially important on the front
bulkheads from about A to C.

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Hi all.In the manual for the floats,Fig.3.8.1 landing gear bulkhead.In
the written text it says measure down from the top 16 1/4 and measure
up 3 1/8.In the drawing for this step it shows 15 15/16 down and 3 3/8
up.This step is for cutting the bulkhead to size.Has anyone else
figured out which is the correct measurement.Ken?The manual has been
really good so far,must be a correction from a later date.Any help
would be appreciated.
Jason Brownell
817R

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[Rebecca Brownell]

Thanks Ken.16 1/4 it is.Did you have to trim the gap at the very
bottom of your bulkheads to 5/8 as described in the manual.Can't
figure out why this is done.?
Thanks again
Jason
On 8-Nov-09, at 8:03 PM, Ken wrote:

Jason

I have an older 1995 manual.

If you mean bulkhead LB, I have a diagram (fig. 16f) that measures
down
the middle 16 1/4 to the bend line. It also shows up the side edge 3
1/8
to the cut line with the bend line being 5/8 above that at the side
edge
of the bulkhead.

I used those measurement without difficulty. The only important
measurement is the 16 1/4 down which is given in the text as well as
that diagram. All the bottom V angles are the same and you want a 5/8
flange on the bottom after you bend it.

The only problem I had with cut down bulkheads was bulkhead I as in
india which was about .1" too short top to bottom for some reason. I
put
a .1" thick aluminum bar between the bottom skin and the bottom of the
bulkhead to fix that and keep the bottom skin flat.

Oh one more caution. Keep the flanges as tight to the bottom outboard
corner of the bulkheads as you can. I had a few places where I had to
put doublers in the corners as the rivet holes did not have adequate
edge distance. Trim the corners of the flanges after you bend the
bottom
flanges and don't trim them at 90 degrees if an angle will let them
extend further into the corner. Especially important on the front
bulkheads from about A to C.

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Hi all.In the manual for the floats,Fig.3.8.1 landing gear
bulkhead.In
the written text it says measure down from the top 16 1/4 and measure
up 3 1/8.In the drawing for this step it shows 15 15/16 down and 3
3/8
up.This step is for cutting the bulkhead to size.Has anyone else
figured out which is the correct measurement.Ken?The manual has been
really good so far,must be a correction from a later date.Any help
would be appreciated.
Jason Brownell
817R

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[Ken]

When you get around to installing the forward keel you will notice that
it is flat about 5/8" wide across the bottom. A wear or rub strip bolts
onto the bottom of that flat section.

The rear keel is V shaped. There were a few things that I scratched my
head over while building the floats as well ;)

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Thanks Ken.16 1/4 it is.Did you have to trim the gap at the very
bottom of your bulkheads to 5/8 as described in the manual.Can't
figure out why this is done.?
Thanks again
Jason

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[Rebecca Brownell]

Rodger that,thanks
JB
On 8-Nov-09, at 9:29 PM, Ken wrote:

When you get around to installing the forward keel you will notice
that
it is flat about 5/8" wide across the bottom. A wear or rub strip
bolts
onto the bottom of that flat section.

The rear keel is V shaped. There were a few things that I scratched my
head over while building the floats as well ;)

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Thanks Ken.16 1/4 it is.Did you have to trim the gap at the very
bottom of your bulkheads to 5/8 as described in the manual.Can't
figure out why this is done.?
Thanks again
Jason

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[Ken]

I believe there was a change as to how to mount the rear of the channel
against bulkhead C depending on your serial number. Originally you bent
flanges on the aft end of the channel. I used extruded aluminum angle
instead of bending flanges (which I think is the current method) and I
may well have trimmed the length.

Before you install the tracks that the front gear rides in make certain
the plastic rollers fit in the slot for the entire length without
binding because it was a pain to deal with that after assembly. Mine
needed some filing for the entire length. If the track is a tiny bit
wider at the aft end it will let you shim the gear against side movement
when it is down and it won't binding during retraction.

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Could anyone who has built a set of floats tell me if they had to trim
the length on FL 209?It's the channel for the front gear.Looks like I
need to trim 1/2 inch off the front end but it doesn't mention having
to trim.Thought I'd check first.
Thanks
Jason
817R

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[Rebecca Brownell]

Thanks Ken,the flanges were made from angle in my manual.I guess i'll
trim the length.Shim against side movement?Not sure what you mean there.
Thanks Jason
On 13-Nov-09, at 5:51 PM, Ken wrote:

I believe there was a change as to how to mount the rear of the
channel
against bulkhead C depending on your serial number. Originally you
bent
flanges on the aft end of the channel. I used extruded aluminum angle
instead of bending flanges (which I think is the current method) and I
may well have trimmed the length.

Before you install the tracks that the front gear rides in make
certain
the plastic rollers fit in the slot for the entire length without
binding because it was a pain to deal with that after assembly. Mine
needed some filing for the entire length. If the track is a tiny bit
wider at the aft end it will let you shim the gear against side
movement
when it is down and it won't binding during retraction.

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Could anyone who has built a set of floats tell me if they had to
trim
the length on FL 209?It's the channel for the front gear.Looks like I
need to trim 1/2 inch off the front end but it doesn't mention having
to trim.Thought I'd check first.
Thanks
Jason
817R

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[Ken]

Jason
If the front gear tracks are vertically parallel on the front vertical
part then you can shim (with washers) the front gear leg to minimize
side to side play of the gear leg. But you won't be able to retract the
front gear if the tracks are narrower (closer to each other) at the rear
of the tracks. No problem at all if they are a tiny bit wider at the
rear though. If there is too much side to side play of the gear leg it
is going to be very difficult to control wheel shimmy.
Make sense now?
Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Thanks Ken,the flanges were made from angle in my manual.I guess i'll
trim the length.Shim against side movement?Not sure what you mean there.
Thanks Jason
On 13-Nov-09, at 5:51 PM, Ken wrote:

I believe there was a change as to how to mount the rear of the
channel
against bulkhead C depending on your serial number. Originally you
bent
flanges on the aft end of the channel. I used extruded aluminum angle
instead of bending flanges (which I think is the current method) and I
may well have trimmed the length.

Before you install the tracks that the front gear rides in make
certain
the plastic rollers fit in the slot for the entire length without
binding because it was a pain to deal with that after assembly. Mine
needed some filing for the entire length. If the track is a tiny bit
wider at the aft end it will let you shim the gear against side
movement
when it is down and it won't binding during retraction.

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Could anyone who has built a set of floats tell me if they had to
trim
the length on FL 209?It's the channel for the front gear.Looks like I
need to trim 1/2 inch off the front end but it doesn't mention having
to trim.Thought I'd check first.
Thanks
Jason
817R

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[Rebecca Brownell]

Yes Ken I think so,I'll let you know how it goes.Thanks for your time.
Jason
On 13-Nov-09, at 9:41 PM, Ken wrote:

Jason
If the front gear tracks are vertically parallel on the front vertical
part then you can shim (with washers) the front gear leg to minimize
side to side play of the gear leg. But you won't be able to retract
the
front gear if the tracks are narrower (closer to each other) at the
rear
of the tracks. No problem at all if they are a tiny bit wider at the
rear though. If there is too much side to side play of the gear leg it
is going to be very difficult to control wheel shimmy.
Make sense now?
Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Thanks Ken,the flanges were made from angle in my manual.I guess i'll
trim the length.Shim against side movement?Not sure what you mean
there.
Thanks Jason
On 13-Nov-09, at 5:51 PM, Ken wrote:

I believe there was a change as to how to mount the rear of the
channel
against bulkhead C depending on your serial number. Originally you
bent
flanges on the aft end of the channel. I used extruded aluminum
angle
instead of bending flanges (which I think is the current method)
and I
may well have trimmed the length.

Before you install the tracks that the front gear rides in make
certain
the plastic rollers fit in the slot for the entire length without
binding because it was a pain to deal with that after assembly. Mine
needed some filing for the entire length. If the track is a tiny bit
wider at the aft end it will let you shim the gear against side
movement
when it is down and it won't binding during retraction.

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

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[Ken]

No doubler that I'm aware of Jason
(Ignore the doubler on Waynes's pic on his CD if that is what you are
looking at as that was a one off thing)

THe two aluminum cover plates for the front two large holes are
described in about the last chapter of the manual for some reason. Think
the chapter is "finishing the top deck" or similar.

I believe you will only use 7 of the plastic covers per float.

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Hello all,I wonder if someone could help me understand something?There
is photo's in the manual for the floats that show the top deck with a
doubler that goes from the front back to at least past the first
inspection hole.It shows a cover plate made from aluminum for the
first two inspection holes.The manual mentions that these holes get
covered with tops made from FL211's wich I have.However there is no
mention of a doubler on the deck and no section on making covers from
the FL211's.I have 19 plastic covers for the floats which is enough to
cover the first two holes as well but I can't see how that would
work.Completely baffled on this point.If anyone could offer some
clarity as to what the finished float looks like up front in that deck
area it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much
Jason
817R

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[Rebecca Brownell]

Thanks Ken.I get thinking I'm missing something .I hate moving ahead
when I don"t have the big picture.There must have been many changes in
the float manual,was there?It's not too bad but not quite as thorough
as the plane manual.Thanks again for your time.
Jason
817R
On 17-Nov-09, at 9:36 PM, Ken wrote:

No doubler that I'm aware of Jason
(Ignore the doubler on Waynes's pic on his CD if that is what you are
looking at as that was a one off thing)

THe two aluminum cover plates for the front two large holes are
described in about the last chapter of the manual for some reason.
Think
the chapter is "finishing the top deck" or similar.

I believe you will only use 7 of the plastic covers per float.

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Hello all,I wonder if someone could help me understand something?
There
is photo's in the manual for the floats that show the top deck with a
doubler that goes from the front back to at least past the first
inspection hole.It shows a cover plate made from aluminum for the
first two inspection holes.The manual mentions that these holes get
covered with tops made from FL211's wich I have.However there is no
mention of a doubler on the deck and no section on making covers from
the FL211's.I have 19 plastic covers for the floats which is enough
to
cover the first two holes as well but I can't see how that would
work.Completely baffled on this point.If anyone could offer some
clarity as to what the finished float looks like up front in that
deck
area it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much
Jason
817R

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

There have been NO changes in the float manual that I know of since the
first kit I aquired in the early 90's.. As you know Jason and as Ken
mentioned... I do have a complete build CD with over 1200 pictures that come
up like a slide show. Step by step in the order they are built, not in the
order the manual spells out.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rebecca Brownell" <brownell@cottagecountry.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Thanks Ken.I get thinking I'm missing something .I hate moving ahead
when I don"t have the big picture.There must have been many changes in
the float manual,was there?It's not too bad but not quite as thorough
as the plane manual.Thanks again for your time.
Jason
817R
On 17-Nov-09, at 9:36 PM, Ken wrote:

No doubler that I'm aware of Jason
(Ignore the doubler on Waynes's pic on his CD if that is what you are
looking at as that was a one off thing)

THe two aluminum cover plates for the front two large holes are
described in about the last chapter of the manual for some reason.
Think
the chapter is "finishing the top deck" or similar.

I believe you will only use 7 of the plastic covers per float.

Ken

Rebecca Brownell wrote:

Hello all,I wonder if someone could help me understand something?
There
is photo's in the manual for the floats that show the top deck with a
doubler that goes from the front back to at least past the first
inspection hole.It shows a cover plate made from aluminum for the
first two inspection holes.The manual mentions that these holes get
covered with tops made from FL211's wich I have.However there is no
mention of a doubler on the deck and no section on making covers from
the FL211's.I have 19 plastic covers for the floats which is enough
to
cover the first two holes as well but I can't see how that would
work.Completely baffled on this point.If anyone could offer some
clarity as to what the finished float looks like up front in that
deck
area it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much
Jason
817R

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

MAM sent you T rails for 1500 floats... they are about 21 inches shorter
than the 1800's !

Funny you have 6 though... you should only have 4 x 16' pieces of T rail.



----- Original Message -----
From: "Rebecca Brownell" <brownell@cottagecountry.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 5:28 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Here we go again.Are the top rails not supposed to be the full length
of the float?One piece aprox 15'9".I have 5 pieces 14'2" long.The way
I read the manual It's supposed to be one piece and trim off the
extra.What the.........?
Jason
817R



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[Rebecca Brownell]

Hi Wayne I have 5 14'pieces.What the he.. do I do now?
On 19-Nov-09, at 5:32 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

MAM sent you T rails for 1500 floats... they are about 21 inches
shorter
than the 1800's !

Funny you have 6 though... you should only have 4 x 16' pieces of T
rail.



----- Original Message -----
From: "Rebecca Brownell" <brownell@cottagecountry.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 5:28 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Here we go again.Are the top rails not supposed to be the full length
of the float?One piece aprox 15'9".I have 5 pieces 14'2" long.The way
I read the manual It's supposed to be one piece and trim off the
extra.What the.........?
Jason
817R



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