PROSEAL

[David Ricker]

Steve

Try your local Aviall dealer for the tank sealer, they carry the Flamemaster
brand.

I wouldn't worry about which brand you get as long as it meets the AMS-S-8802A.
This spec. demands that products from any company adhere to any other, including
after cure I would recommend that you get the 2 hour mix vs. faster as you have
more tie to work at your leisure vs hurrying.

Cheers,

Dave R.
elite583.cjb.net


Steve Halvorsen wrote:

Just rec'd our fast build MOOSE kit last night after waiting a YEAR for it.
Lots of parts! ! !

Can anyone suggest about how many quarts of Proseal would be req'd to finish
the kit and the best place to purchase from ????

Now to do the inventory of what was sent. They already started a back order
list of things that were not sent.

Steve H
Moose 213

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[David Ricker]

Guys,

We get Flamemaster brand of the AMS-S- 8802A from Aviall at $68.14CDN, tax &
shipping inc.

Cheers,

Dave R.

capete@golden.net wrote:

Hey Steve congrats!

How much of the tanks to seal? 80 or 120 gal? What stage of completion are
the tanks on your fast build? Elaine from MAM quoted us $85 for a quart, I
am assuming that is canadian dollars. Aircraft Spruce also sells pro-seal,
approx. $75 USD.

Peter & Monica
SR003Moose

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Halvorsen" <shalvorsen@dataflo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 7:03 PM
Subject: ProSeal

Just rec'd our fast build MOOSE kit last night after waiting a YEAR for

it.

Lots of parts! ! !

Can anyone suggest about how many quarts of Proseal would be req'd to

finish

the kit and the best place to purchase from ????

Now to do the inventory of what was sent. They already started a back

order

list of things that were not sent.

Steve H
Moose 213

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Steve Halvorsen]

Thanks for all the info on ProSeal. Some of the remarks were that if the
tanks don't leak we wouldn't need any. I thought that ProSeal was used on
all the seams when assembling any of the skins or do you just use zinc
chromate on the seams?

Will be doing inventory tomorrow to see what's missing and the get that on
back order.

Steve H
Moose 213

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
David Ricker
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 9:37 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: ProSeal


Guys,

We get Flamemaster brand of the AMS-S- 8802A from Aviall at $68.14CDN, tax &
shipping inc.

Cheers,

Dave R.

capete@golden.net wrote:

Hey Steve congrats!

How much of the tanks to seal? 80 or 120 gal? What stage of completion

are

the tanks on your fast build? Elaine from MAM quoted us $85 for a quart, I
am assuming that is canadian dollars. Aircraft Spruce also sells

pro-seal,

approx. $75 USD.

Peter & Monica
SR003Moose

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Halvorsen" <shalvorsen@dataflo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 7:03 PM
Subject: ProSeal

Just rec'd our fast build MOOSE kit last night after waiting a YEAR for

it.

Lots of parts! ! !

Can anyone suggest about how many quarts of Proseal would be req'd to

finish

the kit and the best place to purchase from ????

Now to do the inventory of what was sent. They already started a back

order

list of things that were not sent.

Steve H
Moose 213

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*







*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Tim Mattice]

Bob,

I probably already know the answer to this question based upon your second
and third motion but...... Is Epoxy Primer rather than Pro-Seal your
recommendation for the corner wraps where they overlap the tail cone skins
as well? I am just getting ready to rivet those in place and I don't want
any water getting through to the interior when she's sitting out in the
rain.

Tim Mattice
Anchorage, AK
167SR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: ProSeal

Hi Steve !

I'll second (and third!!) Ken's comments !! Do yourself
a BIG favour and just use the Polyfiber Epoxy Primer, like the
manual, and years of research & experience says !! Dip the rivets
before inserting & pulling, and brush the EP on both sides of
parts and assemble WET ! This will give the maximum bonding
and corrosion protection.

Don't know why this 'thing' about using Pro-Seal is so
prevalent - it's impossible to separate parts later for repairs,
and it's a bear to work with !! The epoxy primer will flow
much better, to fill & seal gaps.

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 03:46 PM 9/27/03 -0400, you wrote:

Steve

For several reasons I'd recommend you follow the manual and assemble
joints with wet epoxy chromate. Dipping the tip of the rivets before
assembly is a good idea too. The manual has a section on basic
procedures I believe.

One or two guys have assembled with proseal but to me that seems
pointless, expensive, unbelievably messy, stinky, slow, etc....

A number of guys don't even use proseal on the floats anymore although
they do use a one part urethane sealer on those.

Ken

Steve Halvorsen wrote:

Thanks for all the info on ProSeal. Some of the remarks were that if

the

tanks don't leak we wouldn't need any. I thought that ProSeal was used

on

all the seams when assembling any of the skins or do you just use zinc
chromate on the seams?

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[klehman]

Steve

For several reasons I'd recommend you follow the manual and assemble
joints with wet epoxy chromate. Dipping the tip of the rivets before
assembly is a good idea too. The manual has a section on basic
procedures I believe.

One or two guys have assembled with proseal but to me that seems
pointless, expensive, unbelievably messy, stinky, slow, etc....

A number of guys don't even use proseal on the floats anymore although
they do use a one part urethane sealer on those.

Ken

Steve Halvorsen wrote:

Thanks for all the info on ProSeal. Some of the remarks were that if the
tanks don't leak we wouldn't need any. I thought that ProSeal was used on
all the seams when assembling any of the skins or do you just use zinc
chromate on the seams?

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Al & Deb Paxhia]

Tim,
I used epoxy primer on the skins, seals good. I find that if the airplane is
outside moisture condenses on the inside of the tail cone, I drilled drain
holes at each bulkhead. Same goes for the wings but just the rib outboard of
the fuel tanks.
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Mattice" <t.mattice@gci.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: ProSeal

Bob,

I probably already know the answer to this question based upon your second
and third motion but...... Is Epoxy Primer rather than Pro-Seal your
recommendation for the corner wraps where they overlap the tail cone skins
as well? I am just getting ready to rivet those in place and I don't want
any water getting through to the interior when she's sitting out in the
rain.

Tim Mattice
Anchorage, AK
167SR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: ProSeal

Hi Steve !

I'll second (and third!!) Ken's comments !! Do yourself
a BIG favour and just use the Polyfiber Epoxy Primer, like the
manual, and years of research & experience says !! Dip the rivets
before inserting & pulling, and brush the EP on both sides of
parts and assemble WET ! This will give the maximum bonding
and corrosion protection.

Don't know why this 'thing' about using Pro-Seal is so
prevalent - it's impossible to separate parts later for repairs,
and it's a bear to work with !! The epoxy primer will flow
much better, to fill & seal gaps.

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 03:46 PM 9/27/03 -0400, you wrote:

Steve

For several reasons I'd recommend you follow the manual and assemble
joints with wet epoxy chromate. Dipping the tip of the rivets before
assembly is a good idea too. The manual has a section on basic
procedures I believe.

One or two guys have assembled with proseal but to me that seems
pointless, expensive, unbelievably messy, stinky, slow, etc....

A number of guys don't even use proseal on the floats anymore although
they do use a one part urethane sealer on those.

Ken

Steve Halvorsen wrote:

the

used

on

zinc

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Patterson]

Hi Steve !

I'll second (and third!!) Ken's comments !! Do yourself
a BIG favour and just use the Polyfiber Epoxy Primer, like the
manual, and years of research & experience says !! Dip the rivets
before inserting & pulling, and brush the EP on both sides of
parts and assemble WET ! This will give the maximum bonding
and corrosion protection.

Don't know why this 'thing' about using Pro-Seal is so
prevalent - it's impossible to separate parts later for repairs,
and it's a bear to work with !! The epoxy primer will flow
much better, to fill & seal gaps.

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 03:46 PM 9/27/03 -0400, you wrote:

Steve

For several reasons I'd recommend you follow the manual and assemble
joints with wet epoxy chromate. Dipping the tip of the rivets before
assembly is a good idea too. The manual has a section on basic
procedures I believe.

One or two guys have assembled with proseal but to me that seems
pointless, expensive, unbelievably messy, stinky, slow, etc....

A number of guys don't even use proseal on the floats anymore although
they do use a one part urethane sealer on those.

Ken

Steve Halvorsen wrote:

Thanks for all the info on ProSeal. Some of the remarks were that if the
tanks don't leak we wouldn't need any. I thought that ProSeal was used on
all the seams when assembling any of the skins or do you just use zinc
chromate on the seams?

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Murray and Carol Cherkas]

Steve:

I spoke to Brian Godden about sealing skins. Being that someday I may be on
floats on salt water someday he suggested that I use Sikaflex 1A between
mating surfaces at least on the underside of the fuselodge. I zinc chromated
all my skins prior to assembly. Instead of recoating the mating surfaces
with zinc chromate in order to put them together wet, I applied two thin
beads of Sikaflex 1A between the mating surfaces. Use lots of cleco's and
pull the rivets slow in order to pull the parts together. I would suggest
discussing this with MAM before you proceed.

Good Luck
Murray

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Steve Halvorsen
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 4:13 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: ProSeal


Thanks for all the info on ProSeal. Some of the remarks were that if the
tanks don't leak we wouldn't need any. I thought that ProSeal was used on
all the seams when assembling any of the skins or do you just use zinc
chromate on the seams?

Will be doing inventory tomorrow to see what's missing and the get that on
back order.

Steve H
Moose 213

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
David Ricker
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 9:37 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: ProSeal


Guys,

We get Flamemaster brand of the AMS-S- 8802A from Aviall at $68.14CDN, tax &
shipping inc.

Cheers,

Dave R.

capete@golden.net wrote:

Hey Steve congrats!

How much of the tanks to seal? 80 or 120 gal? What stage of completion

are

the tanks on your fast build? Elaine from MAM quoted us $85 for a quart, I
am assuming that is canadian dollars. Aircraft Spruce also sells

pro-seal,

approx. $75 USD.

Peter & Monica
SR003Moose

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Halvorsen" <shalvorsen@dataflo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 7:03 PM
Subject: ProSeal

Just rec'd our fast build MOOSE kit last night after waiting a YEAR for

it.

Lots of parts! ! !

Can anyone suggest about how many quarts of Proseal would be req'd to

finish

the kit and the best place to purchase from ????

Now to do the inventory of what was sent. They already started a back

order

list of things that were not sent.

Steve H
Moose 213

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*







*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Patterson]

Hi Tim !

Absolutely ! If you get a reasonably close fit, the
epoxy primer will fill gaps, preventing capillary action from
sucking water into the joint, and it will bond the parts together
in a way that will allow you to peel them apart (with difficulty)
later, if repairs are necessary. There are chemicals in the e.p.
that help prevent corrosion (no longer zinc chromate, as the EPA
have stopped that, but something equivalent, according to Polyfiber).
So there is a chemical bond to the surface, as opposed to just the
(very strong) mechanical bond from the ProSeal.

The epoxy primer is MUCH easier to brush on and assemble
parts WET - if ProSeal is too thick, you might not get a good
solid mechanical joint ! Note what used to happen to the tops
of fuel tanks before we started pulling them down slowly, with
increasing pressure, to allow the ProSeal to ooze out a bit !!
(Big gaps, weak joins, loose rivets .... )

.....bobp

------------------------------orig.------------------------------
At 01:47 PM 9/27/03 -0800, you wrote:

Bob,

I probably already know the answer to this question based upon your second
and third motion but...... Is Epoxy Primer rather than Pro-Seal your
recommendation for the corner wraps where they overlap the tail cone skins
as well? I am just getting ready to rivet those in place and I don't want
any water getting through to the interior when she's sitting out in the
rain.

Tim Mattice
Anchorage, AK
167SR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: ProSeal

Hi Steve !

I'll second (and third!!) Ken's comments !! Do yourself
a BIG favour and just use the Polyfiber Epoxy Primer, like the
manual, and years of research & experience says !! Dip the rivets
before inserting & pulling, and brush the EP on both sides of
parts and assemble WET ! This will give the maximum bonding
and corrosion protection.

Don't know why this 'thing' about using Pro-Seal is so
prevalent - it's impossible to separate parts later for repairs,
and it's a bear to work with !! The epoxy primer will flow
much better, to fill & seal gaps.

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 03:46 PM 9/27/03 -0400, you wrote:

Steve

For several reasons I'd recommend you follow the manual and assemble
joints with wet epoxy chromate. Dipping the tip of the rivets before
assembly is a good idea too. The manual has a section on basic
procedures I believe.

One or two guys have assembled with proseal but to me that seems
pointless, expensive, unbelievably messy, stinky, slow, etc....

A number of guys don't even use proseal on the floats anymore although
they do use a one part urethane sealer on those.

Ken

Steve Halvorsen wrote:

the

on

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Patterson]

Right on, Al !! No matter how you seal the joints, water
WILL get inside - so it's VERY important to have drain holes to
let it OUT again !!

All the float pilots I've seen who fly on salt water go
to fresh water and rinse the floats and interior as soon as possible,
to get rid of the salt water residue. Many a Beaver gets the whole
interior hosed down regularly ! Really helps with the 'dead fish'
smell, too .... ;-) :-)

Also, in winter, snow will blow into every tiny crack,
thaw in sunshine, and then freeze in a big block near the tail
if there are no drain holes - I found over 20 lb. of ice in
the tail of Rebel No. 001 the first winter !! Promptly drilled
drain holes in front of every bulkhead on the belly !!!

I can really agree with the condensation problem - I used
to find over an inch of water in the amphibs after being parked
in an open hangar on dry land for a week, in humid weather !!

So - sealing the joints on the belly with ProSeal isn't
going to help with water, and it won't give as good a corrosion
protection....

Just MHO - and I know that Brian has his own HO also -
guess that's what makes homebuilding "experimental" !! ;-) :-)

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 07:15 PM 9/27/03 -0700, you wrote:

Tim,
I used epoxy primer on the skins, seals good. I find that if the airplane is
outside moisture condenses on the inside of the tail cone, I drilled drain
holes at each bulkhead. Same goes for the wings but just the rib outboard of
the fuel tanks.
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Mattice" <t.mattice@gci.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: ProSeal

Bob,

I probably already know the answer to this question based upon your second
and third motion but...... Is Epoxy Primer rather than Pro-Seal your
recommendation for the corner wraps where they overlap the tail cone skins
as well? I am just getting ready to rivet those in place and I don't want
any water getting through to the interior when she's sitting out in the
rain.

Tim Mattice
Anchorage, AK
167SR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: ProSeal

Hi Steve !

I'll second (and third!!) Ken's comments !! Do yourself
a BIG favour and just use the Polyfiber Epoxy Primer, like the
manual, and years of research & experience says !! Dip the rivets
before inserting & pulling, and brush the EP on both sides of
parts and assemble WET ! This will give the maximum bonding
and corrosion protection.

Don't know why this 'thing' about using Pro-Seal is so
prevalent - it's impossible to separate parts later for repairs,
and it's a bear to work with !! The epoxy primer will flow
much better, to fill & seal gaps.

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 03:46 PM 9/27/03 -0400, you wrote:

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[N.Smith]

Hi All

I too am planning on having floats eventually, and am zinc chromating all
the parts with Metaflex primer spayed on or dipped for small parts, and
assembly is completed with JC5 or mastinox on the mating surfaces. I guess
here in England we have a different range of product names.

So far so good, and the JC5 is proving much easier to work with than
mastinox, so I'll try to stick with that from now on (no pun intended:-)

Done the stab, flaps, ailerons, fin and rudder so far, and halfway through
the elevator.

Nigel
Elite 745E
G-ONIG

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Murray and Carol Cherkas
Sent: 28 September 2003 05:32
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: ProSeal


Steve:

I spoke to Brian Godden about sealing skins. Being that someday I may be on
floats on salt water someday he suggested that I use Sikaflex 1A between
mating surfaces at least on the underside of the fuselodge. I zinc chromated
all my skins prior to assembly. Instead of recoating the mating surfaces
with zinc chromate in order to put them together wet, I applied two thin
beads of Sikaflex 1A between the mating surfaces. Use lots of cleco's and
pull the rivets slow in order to pull the parts together. I would suggest
discussing this with MAM before you proceed.

Good Luck
Murray

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Steve Halvorsen
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 4:13 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: ProSeal


Thanks for all the info on ProSeal. Some of the remarks were that if the
tanks don't leak we wouldn't need any. I thought that ProSeal was used on
all the seams when assembling any of the skins or do you just use zinc
chromate on the seams?

Will be doing inventory tomorrow to see what's missing and the get that on
back order.

Steve H
Moose 213

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
David Ricker
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 9:37 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: ProSeal


Guys,

We get Flamemaster brand of the AMS-S- 8802A from Aviall at $68.14CDN, tax &
shipping inc.

Cheers,

Dave R.

capete@golden.net wrote:

Hey Steve congrats!

How much of the tanks to seal? 80 or 120 gal? What stage of completion

are

the tanks on your fast build? Elaine from MAM quoted us $85 for a quart, I
am assuming that is canadian dollars. Aircraft Spruce also sells

pro-seal,

approx. $75 USD.

Peter & Monica
SR003Moose

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Halvorsen" <shalvorsen@dataflo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 7:03 PM
Subject: ProSeal

Just rec'd our fast build MOOSE kit last night after waiting a YEAR for

it.

Lots of parts! ! !

Can anyone suggest about how many quarts of Proseal would be req'd to

finish

the kit and the best place to purchase from ????

Now to do the inventory of what was sent. They already started a back

order

list of things that were not sent.

Steve H
Moose 213

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*







*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Joseph Juhnke]

Hi Nigel,

I noticed you mentioned building in England. My Fiancee and I are
considering moving to Europe (Holland) to live in a few years and I was
wondering if you had any idea where I might be able to find out more
about experimental regulations in the EU? I am planning on starting a
MAM (TBD) project in the next year and I understand that European
Air-spaces can be confusing and are heavily regulated (differently
between Countries). Is it even feasible to transport a completed (or
mostly completed) aircraft from North America to Europe?

Cheers,

Joseph


On Sunday, Sep 28, 2003, at 03:38 America/Chicago, N.Smith wrote:

Hi All

I too am planning on having floats eventually, and am zinc chromating
all
the parts with Metaflex primer spayed on or dipped for small parts, and
assembly is completed with JC5 or mastinox on the mating surfaces. I
guess
here in England we have a different range of product names.

So far so good, and the JC5 is proving much easier to work with than
mastinox, so I'll try to stick with that from now on (no pun
intended:-)

Done the stab, flaps, ailerons, fin and rudder so far, and halfway
through
the elevator.

Nigel
Elite 745E
G-ONIG

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Murray and Carol Cherkas
Sent: 28 September 2003 05:32
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: ProSeal


Steve:

I spoke to Brian Godden about sealing skins. Being that someday I may
be on
floats on salt water someday he suggested that I use Sikaflex 1A
between
mating surfaces at least on the underside of the fuselodge. I zinc
chromated
all my skins prior to assembly. Instead of recoating the mating
surfaces
with zinc chromate in order to put them together wet, I applied two
thin
beads of Sikaflex 1A between the mating surfaces. Use lots of cleco's
and
pull the rivets slow in order to pull the parts together. I would
suggest
discussing this with MAM before you proceed.

Good Luck
Murray

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Steve Halvorsen
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 4:13 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: ProSeal


Thanks for all the info on ProSeal. Some of the remarks were that if
the
tanks don't leak we wouldn't need any. I thought that ProSeal was
used on
all the seams when assembling any of the skins or do you just use zinc
chromate on the seams?

Will be doing inventory tomorrow to see what's missing and the get
that on
back order.

Steve H
Moose 213

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
David Ricker
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 9:37 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: ProSeal


Guys,

We get Flamemaster brand of the AMS-S- 8802A from Aviall at $68.14CDN,
tax &
shipping inc.

Cheers,

Dave R.

capete@golden.net wrote:

Hey Steve congrats!

How much of the tanks to seal? 80 or 120 gal? What stage of
completion

are

the tanks on your fast build? Elaine from MAM quoted us $85 for a
quart, I
am assuming that is canadian dollars. Aircraft Spruce also sells

pro-seal,

approx. $75 USD.

Peter & Monica
SR003Moose

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Halvorsen" <shalvorsen@dataflo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 7:03 PM
Subject: ProSeal

Just rec'd our fast build MOOSE kit last night after waiting a YEAR
for

it.

Lots of parts! ! !

Can anyone suggest about how many quarts of Proseal would be req'd to

finish

the kit and the best place to purchase from ????

Now to do the inventory of what was sent. They already started a
back

order

list of things that were not sent.

Steve H
Moose 213

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at
http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada





*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*







*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*





*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*





*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[storchpilot]

Attn.Joseph Juhnke, I was born and raised over there (Holland) and still
visit at least once a year. I hope you are not thinking float plane
version of one of the MAM products? There are more lakes and waterways
in that country, but if you dare to land on any of the waterbodies, you
will get arrested and your aircraft will be confiscated. The regulations
change constantly, but the local AOPA can be very helpful, our own AOPA
can certainly point you in the right direction. Since your airplane
presumably will be US registered and one of the limitations will be "to
be flown over US territory only, unless permission from the foreign
government has been obtained" or words to that effect, I would make very
sure that it can be obtained. In any case, everything is done to
discourage private flying, fuelprices are idiotic, regulations fall
under the same class, there are some crazy landingfees, yet a buddy of
mine near Paris, goes all over with his Glastar. Go figure. The actual
shipping is only a matter of money, containers 20 or 40 footers have
gone way up, the up-to-date prices can be had from a reputable broker
and your destination should be Rotterdam and you they can quote you a
door to door fee for the use of the container. I have no idea where you
live, but from an East Coast USA port to Rotterdam count on $ 5000 at
least. If you leave the engine off, you might get by with a 20 footer,
but in contrast to the old days, when the cost used to be half that, the
price is not all that much cheaper. That country has done itself in by
25 years of unlimited immigration policy, one government after another,
playing super-power and that such a small country. They are now paying
the piper. Roads are very crowded, crime of unreal proportion and so on.
Good luck. Geert Frank


*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

NONE!

I absolutely refuse to play with it and only use as it comes out of the can
mixed with a proper 10 to 1 (by weight) ratio to the catalyst.

I have never found any reason to thin it to use on anything. Spread it out
with a putty knife, between mating seems, and cleco/rivet together.

Cheers,
Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Gilles St-Pierre" <ranchlaseigneurie@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 2:57 PM
Subject: proseal

Wayne
what is the best thinner to dilute proseal
thanks
gilles

_________________________________________________________________
Free yourself from those irritating pop-up ads with MSn Premium. Get

2months

FREE*

http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-ca&pag ... 034&SU=htt
p://hotmail.com/enca&HL=Market_MSNIS_Taglines
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://www.dcsol.com/default.htm
Archives public username "rebel" password "builder"
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://www.dcsol.com/default.htm
Archives public username "rebel" password "builder"
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Gilles St-Pierre]

Wayne
what is the best thinner to dilute proseal
thanks
gilles

_________________________________________________________________
Free yourself from those irritating pop-up ads with MSn Premium. Get 2months
FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-ca&pag ... S_Taglines



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://www.dcsol.com/default.htm
Archives public username "rebel" password "builder"
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------