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[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
Bruce Georgen

[rebel-builders] 1800 Amphibs

Post by Bruce Georgen » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

If you keep your Rebel under 1800 lbs gross they are fine. Maybe 2000 lbs but I've never been that heavy so can't say.

Bruce G

-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Klatt <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Sent: Jun 19, 2006 8:07 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 Amphibs

Not under floated in my opinion. Have had mine loaded up pretty good on the
water, and always got off easily (near sea level that is). I think these
are a perfect match for the Rebel. The problem with larger floats is
weight, and that means you will have to carry less in your plane, so what's
the point.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Clay
Smith
Sent: June 19, 2006 4:46 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 Amphibs

I'm considering the 1800 amphibs build project this winter. I have heard
some say that they're a little under floated for rebel. I'm wondering if
those of you that are flying these floats are satisfied. Thanks for any
comments.

Clay



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Aurele Lavigne

[rebel-builders] 1800 Amphibs

Post by Aurele Lavigne » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

Wayne, u got a laptop in your boat hooked up to a sattelite feed??? LOL

Aurele

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 Amphibs

O-320 powered Rebel sits out of the water just fine on 1800's...even at
2000lbs all up weight. As Walter pointed out the extra weight using
oversized floats = lost useful load or leaving fuel behind. As Alan has
now
pointed out Kinden uses heavier vertical strut material, as the MAM stuff
for the 1800's always looked suspect, BUT I'll tell you and have pictures
and the scrap parts to prove it...you can stretch your Rebel 3" and
shorten
it 2". Crumple the float bottoms up as much as 6" from bow to step, buckle
the top T rails and split the side skins at the step.....and the vertical
struts supplied by MAM and all associated attach fittings are still
perfect
and reusable...so what's the point of heavier struts?

Okay...back to fishing at 7am ! :O)

Wayne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@xplornet.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 8:44 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 Amphibs

Clay:

I had my Elite on Montana 2200s side by side with a Rebel on Murphy
1800s the other day, and there is a very significant difference. Not
only do you get more floatation, but the keel clearance on land is about
3 times as much, and the rigging is much more substantial. I'd say the
1800s would be problematic on the Elite, though they're probably OK on
the Rebel if you keep the weight down. Of course, nothing is free, and
the Montanas are quite a bit heavier.

BTW, I have posted a few Elite pics on users.xplornet.com/~ahepburn

Al






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Clay Smith

[rebel-builders] 1800 Amphibs

Post by Clay Smith » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

Hi Drew, what do you mean by "more freeboard" I'm not familiar with that
term.
Thanks.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 Amphibs

At 09:15 PM 6/19/2006 -0230, you wrote:
I'm considering the 1800 amphibs build project this winter. I have heard
some say that they're a little under floated for rebel. I'm wondering if
those of you that are flying these floats are satisfied. Thanks for any
comments.
Clay
I'm very satisfied with my floats and I think they are large enough for
the
rebel I've more freeboard with my floats than any other plane I've flown.
The only problem I've had is poor quality plumbing materials for the
amphibs that I ended up totally replacing.
Drew



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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] 1800 Amphibs

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

Freeboard is the distance between the gunwale (or the top deck in this
case) and the water when fully loaded. Most planes I've flown tend to
almost submerge the tails once they're loaded up. On my rebel the back of
the floats are still 3or4" out of the water.

At 09:03 AM 6/20/2006 -0230, you wrote:
Hi Drew, what do you mean by "more freeboard" I'm not familiar with that
term.
Thanks.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 Amphibs

At 09:15 PM 6/19/2006 -0230, you wrote:
I'm considering the 1800 amphibs build project this winter. I have heard
some say that they're a little under floated for rebel. I'm wondering if
those of you that are flying these floats are satisfied. Thanks for any
comments.
Clay
I'm very satisfied with my floats and I think they are large enough for
the
rebel I've more freeboard with my floats than any other plane I've flown.
The only problem I've had is poor quality plumbing materials for the
amphibs that I ended up totally replacing.
Drew



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Drew



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Angus McKenzie

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Angus McKenzie » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

Hi Drew and All,
Finally got CFTUJ going on Friday. Finished the new doublers under the rear
door frame.
Did a gear swing Thursday during pre-season maintanence and had a big red
puddle under the right front gear Friday morning. Changed the three O-rings
and got the system functioning BUT now my gear will not stay retracted. Any
thoughts on this from everyone. The pressure seems to be positive on the
Gear-down function but requires 1/2 pump stroke every 1-2 minutes to keep
the wheels up. This quickly becomes a pain while transitioning on water.
Put just over 8 hours on it Sat and Sun and am tired of pumping.
Other than this everything is working great and I really love the plane.
Also should mention fuel usage- with judicious leaning- 37.5 litres/per/hour
OR 8.2 Imp.gal/per/hour OR $455 Cdn dollars for 8 hours..............Angus


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

For Angus you asked to know how I made out rebuilding my nose wheel
cylinder. First try I just replaced the 0-rings and it leaked worse than
when I started. second try I polished the piston with my dremel tool to
get
rid of all the little burrs from machining and a couple from being dropped
or more likely squeezed a little too hard in a vice. I then installed the
next size larger in diameter 0-rings and got it back together with only a
little more difficulty. It still leaks a bit but the pressure holds for
over 5 minutes. There might be a little more stiction in the cylinder but
not much. I'm going to try it like this for a while and if I'm still not
happy I can get a new piston from MAM.
Drew



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bransom

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by bransom » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

Angus,
Seems like a high fuel burn for 0-320. Do you have a different engine, or
any other info about the fuel rate?
Thanks,
-Ben
Hi Drew and All,
Finally got CFTUJ going on Friday. Finished the new doublers under the rear
door frame.
Did a gear swing Thursday during pre-season maintanence and had a big red
puddle under the right front gear Friday morning. Changed the three O-rings
and got the system functioning BUT now my gear will not stay retracted. Any
thoughts on this from everyone. The pressure seems to be positive on the
Gear-down function but requires 1/2 pump stroke every 1-2 minutes to keep
the wheels up. This quickly becomes a pain while transitioning on water.
Put just over 8 hours on it Sat and Sun and am tired of pumping.
Other than this everything is working great and I really love the plane.
Also should mention fuel usage- with judicious leaning- 37.5 litres/per/hour
OR 8.2 Imp.gal/per/hour OR $455 Cdn dollars for 8 hours..............Angus


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

For Angus you asked to know how I made out rebuilding my nose wheel
cylinder. First try I just replaced the 0-rings and it leaked worse than
when I started. second try I polished the piston with my dremel tool to
get
rid of all the little burrs from machining and a couple from being dropped
or more likely squeezed a little too hard in a vice. I then installed the
next size larger in diameter 0-rings and got it back together with only a
little more difficulty. It still leaks a bit but the pressure holds for
over 5 minutes. There might be a little more stiction in the cylinder but
not much. I'm going to try it like this for a while and if I'm still not
happy I can get a new piston from MAM.
Drew



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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

I don't know Ben....I could easily burn 9.5US gal/hr with FOKM on the
'phibs.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Angus,
Seems like a high fuel burn for 0-320. Do you have a different engine, or
any other info about the fuel rate?
Thanks,
-Ben
Hi Drew and All,
Finally got CFTUJ going on Friday. Finished the new doublers under the
rear
door frame.
Did a gear swing Thursday during pre-season maintanence and had a big
red
puddle under the right front gear Friday morning. Changed the three
O-rings
and got the system functioning BUT now my gear will not stay retracted.
Any
thoughts on this from everyone. The pressure seems to be positive on the
Gear-down function but requires 1/2 pump stroke every 1-2 minutes to
keep
the wheels up. This quickly becomes a pain while transitioning on water.
Put just over 8 hours on it Sat and Sun and am tired of pumping.
Other than this everything is working great and I really love the plane.
Also should mention fuel usage- with judicious leaning- 37.5
litres/per/hour
OR 8.2 Imp.gal/per/hour OR $455 Cdn dollars for 8
hours..............Angus

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

For Angus you asked to know how I made out rebuilding my nose wheel
cylinder. First try I just replaced the 0-rings and it leaked worse
than
when I started. second try I polished the piston with my dremel tool
to
get
rid of all the little burrs from machining and a couple from being
dropped
or more likely squeezed a little too hard in a vice. I then installed
the
next size larger in diameter 0-rings and got it back together with onl
y a
little more difficulty. It still leaks a bit but the pressure holds
for
over 5 minutes. There might be a little more stiction in the cylinder
but
not much. I'm going to try it like this for a while and if I'm still
not
happy I can get a new piston from MAM.
Drew



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bransom

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by bransom » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

Oh. I just thought it was slower, but I guess if it means driving around
in high gear (flatter pitch), it is more power, more gas. ...and dangit,
more $, ...like most fun things
I don't know Ben....I could easily burn 9.5US gal/hr with FOKM on the
'phibs.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Angus,
Seems like a high fuel burn for 0-320. Do you have a different engine, or
any other info about the fuel rate?
Thanks,
-Ben
Hi Drew and All,
Finally got CFTUJ going on Friday. Finished the new doublers under the
rear
door frame.
Did a gear swing Thursday during pre-season maintanence and had a big
red
puddle under the right front gear Friday morning. Changed the three
O-rings
and got the system functioning BUT now my gear will not stay retracted.
Any
thoughts on this from everyone. The pressure seems to be positive on the
Gear-down function but requires 1/2 pump stroke every 1-2 minutes to
keep
the wheels up. This quickly becomes a pain while transitioning on water.
Put just over 8 hours on it Sat and Sun and am tired of pumping.
Other than this everything is working great and I really love the plane.
Also should mention fuel usage- with judicious leaning- 37.5
litres/per/hour
OR 8.2 Imp.gal/per/hour OR $455 Cdn dollars for 8
hours..............Angus

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

than
to
dropped
the
y a
for
but
not
5/9/2006




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WALTER KLATT

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by WALTER KLATT » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

This is where my fuel monitor really helps me. It allows me to lean with EGTs, RPM and ASI, to get the most fuel efficiency and smooth running RPM at every altitude. I usually cruise at 7.5 US gph where without this gauge would likely be running at 8 or 8.5 if I just leaned to smooth running. With my carb, all 4 EGTs don't peak at once, so a little playing around is always necessary to get the best compromise.

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: bransom@dcsol.com
Date: Monday, June 26, 2006 11:04 am
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs
Oh. I just thought it was slower, but I guess if it means driving
aroundin high gear (flatter pitch), it is more power, more gas.
...and dangit,
more $, ...like most fun things
I don't know Ben....I could easily burn 9.5US gal/hr with FOKM
on the
'phibs.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Angus,
Seems like a high fuel burn for 0-320. Do you have a
different engine, or
any other info about the fuel rate?
Thanks,
-Ben
under the
rear
had a big
red
the three
O-rings
retracted.> Any
positive on the
minutes to
keep
transitioning on water.
love the plane.
litres/per/hour
hours..............Angus
nose wheel
leaked worse
than
dremel tool
to
from being
dropped
then installed
the
together with onl
y a
pressure holds
for
the cylinder
but
I'm still
not
------
------
5/9/2006




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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

That's about what I burn with mine on the amphibs...7.5usgph I don't push it
and fly around 2475/2500 rpm most of the time and lean by ear.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "WALTER KLATT" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

This is where my fuel monitor really helps me. It allows me to lean with
EGTs, RPM and ASI, to get the most fuel efficiency and smooth running RPM at
every altitude. I usually cruise at 7.5 US gph where without this gauge
would likely be running at 8 or 8.5 if I just leaned to smooth running. With
my carb, all 4 EGTs don't peak at once, so a little playing around is always
necessary to get the best compromise.
Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: bransom@dcsol.com
Date: Monday, June 26, 2006 11:04 am
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs
Oh. I just thought it was slower, but I guess if it means driving
aroundin high gear (flatter pitch), it is more power, more gas.
...and dangit,
more $, ...like most fun things
I don't know Ben....I could easily burn 9.5US gal/hr with FOKM
on the
'phibs.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

different engine, or
under the
rear
had a big
red
the three
O-rings
retracted.> Any
positive on the
minutes to
keep
transitioning on water.
love the plane.
litres/per/hour hours..............Angus
nose wheel
leaked worse
than
dremel tool
to
from being
dropped
then installed
the
together with onl
y a
pressure holds
for
the cylinder
but
I'm still
not
------
------
5/9/2006
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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

Hi Angus The only place in the system that uses a different path for the
oil flow between up and down is the selector valve so that's where I'd be
looking for problems. It seems unlikely that a cylinder would leak
internally in one direction and not the other. I'm assuming that it's not
leaking any oil out of the system.

At 11:24 AM 6/26/2006 -0400, you wrote:
Hi Drew and All,
Finally got CFTUJ going on Friday. Finished the new doublers under the rear
door frame.
Did a gear swing Thursday during pre-season maintanence and had a big red
puddle under the right front gear Friday morning. Changed the three O-rings
and got the system functioning BUT now my gear will not stay retracted. Any
thoughts on this from everyone. The pressure seems to be positive on the
Gear-down function but requires 1/2 pump stroke every 1-2 minutes to keep
the wheels up. This quickly becomes a pain while transitioning on water.
Put just over 8 hours on it Sat and Sun and am tired of pumping.
Other than this everything is working great and I really love the plane.
Also should mention fuel usage- with judicious leaning- 37.5 litres/per/hour
OR 8.2 Imp.gal/per/hour OR $455 Cdn dollars for 8 hours..............Angus


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

For Angus you asked to know how I made out rebuilding my nose wheel
cylinder. First try I just replaced the 0-rings and it leaked worse than
when I started. second try I polished the piston with my dremel tool to
get
rid of all the little burrs from machining and a couple from being dropped
or more likely squeezed a little too hard in a vice. I then installed the
next size larger in diameter 0-rings and got it back together with only a
little more difficulty. It still leaks a bit but the pressure holds for
over 5 minutes. There might be a little more stiction in the cylinder but
not much. I'm going to try it like this for a while and if I'm still not
happy I can get a new piston from MAM.
Drew



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Drew



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Angus McKenzie

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Angus McKenzie » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

Hi Drew
Correct, it is not leaking oil out of the system. Wonder if sitting all
winter could have any effect on components of the selector valve? I'll have
to check my float manual tomorrow morning when I get home from work and see
if theres a parts break down for the selector switch...........Thanks, Angus
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Hi Angus The only place in the system that uses a different path for the
oil flow between up and down is the selector valve so that's where I'd be
looking for problems. It seems unlikely that a cylinder would leak
internally in one direction and not the other. I'm assuming that it's not
leaking any oil out of the system.


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Ken

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Ken » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

Unless that cylinder was damaged or corroded at the aft end where the
piston sits when retracted. I've never worked on Rebel hydraulics like
you guys but I know I've been tricked more than once where replacing a
perfect looking o-ring solved the problem. Does a drop of water ever
collect in a cylinder or valve over the winter and cause corrosion? Is
there enough adjustment that the piston could be set to retract less so
that it sits in a bit different position when full up just to see if it
changes anythng?
Ken

Drew Dalgleish wrote:
Hi Angus The only place in the system that uses a different path for the
oil flow between up and down is the selector valve so that's where I'd be
looking for problems. It seems unlikely that a cylinder would leak
internally in one direction and not the other. I'm assuming that it's not
leaking any oil out of the system.




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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 am

At 09:11 AM 6/27/2006 -0400, you wrote:
Unless that cylinder was damaged or corroded at the aft end where the
piston sits when retracted. I've never worked on Rebel hydraulics like
you guys but I know I've been tricked more than once where replacing a
perfect looking o-ring solved the problem. Does a drop of water ever
collect in a cylinder or valve over the winter and cause corrosion? Is
there enough adjustment that the piston could be set to retract less so
that it sits in a bit different position when full up just to see if it
changes anythng?
Ken
Good point Ken It would be tough to change the rod length on all four
pistons but one way to find if it's a piston or the selector would be to
reverse the lines on the selector. If it still leaks when up it's a
cylinder and if it leaks when it's down then it's probably the selector
valve.
Drew



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Craig Walls

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Craig Walls » Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:51 pm

Jason,
There was a built set of MAM 1800 amphibs for sale 2 weeks ago in Dowagiac
MI. (close to Kalamazoo) $23,000. I saw the add on Barnstormers and can't
find it now but they may still be out there. It's a start.... Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Rebecca Brownell
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 3:54 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Hi all
does anyone know of a set of 1800 amphibs out there that may be
available?New,used, built, not built,doesn't matter.
I'm on the "list" to get a set if there are 9 others who want them but
I hate the thought of going without floats for very long
after the plane is done.Will take them immediately if I can find
them.Or if anyone knows of a suitable alternative that
weighs about the same as the 1800 please let me know.

Thanks so much
Jason
817R



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