Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

N.Smith · Post by **N.Smith** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:23 pm

Hi All

I spoke with a guy at Parker this morning about rated value's for parflex
and similar 1/4" .035 sidewall nylon tubing and he reckons anything above
350-450 PSI is likely to cause problems after a while. He was unaware of a
specific problem related to weakening with UV exposure, but he thought it
quite likely after several years.

I'm definitely going for ali and 601/ae701 hose flexibles in my build. -4
for brake lines, and -6 for fuel and float hydraulics.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bruce Georgen
Sent: 22 November 2005 06:02
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

After blowing my float line in BC last summer, after setting in the hot sun
for several hours while fishing with Walter, I leave my selector in the up
position. When in the neutral position I still get pressure build up.

Bruce

--Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: Nov 21, 2005 11:43 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

...unfortunately MAM is throwing Beige Semi-rigid nylon tube in the amphib
kits now (well at least the one I got last Thur) instead of the ship list
Parker Parflex...me not amused with being expected to try something
different (and I won't be)! I know what you're saying about bubble chasing,
Walter, with the semi-clear parker parflex. Very easy to coax it up the
struts. Once you get it up towards the cabin you can cycle back and forth
partially to get it into the reservoir without pushing the air back down to
the floats.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 11:39 PM
Subject: RE: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

I still have the original MAM plastic brake and hydraulic lines
in mine, and no problems since I solved the original fitting
leaks when first installed. One thing I do with mine that might
help, is I leave the valve lever in the middle/lock position,
which may relieve pressure on my lines.

Another advantage of the plastic lines is that you can see air
bubbles which were easy to get rid of then after installation
without having to bleed any lines. I retracted the front wheels
and then tilted the plane up or down to slowly move the air
bubbles where I wanted them to go.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Angus McKenzie
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 11:03 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

Hi Ken and Drew
The hydraulic lines in the cockpit blew in several
spots and the brake lines
have blown about 3 times once on wheel gear and twice
on floats. So, now we
have braided stainless and solid aluminum from your
feet to the calipers for
the brakes, this made a significant improvement
increasing brake efficiency.
The plastic lines on the hydraulic float pump have
blown on the pressure
side in three spots, (our Rebel will leak oil out of
the fuselage on hot
days for the rest of its life, I should probably
reweigh it and do a W&B
amendment for the spilled oil onboard) anyway, I now
have solid aluminum
from the pump to the floats but still have plastic
lines in the floats,
though I expect to replace that plastic line as well.
My most recent structural "need" is doublers at the
front of the rear corner
wraps under the door sill.
Sorry to have missed the get-together in Brampton on
Sunday-family issues.
Angus..............049R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

At 11:02 PM 11/13/2005 -0500, you wrote:
hydraulic lines.
I ended up replacing all my float hydraulic lines
because of leaks. They
were not as high quality lines or fittings as the
brake lines though. I
thoughr Angus went with all aluminum lines on his
origional instalation.
Drew

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:23 pm

To avoid pressure when static on the air lift at the lake I select gear down
and pump the gear about four strokes down. Then I put the selector in the
gear up posiiton. I first did it with 2 strokes down and the 35 degree days
where enough to retract the gear fully and put 200 psi on the gauge.

In the hangar I just dump the pressure and then reselect gear up and keep an
eye on it and dump again when necessary.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Georgen" <bgeorgen@peoplepc.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

After blowing my float line in BC last summer, after setting in the hot

sun for several hours while fishing with Walter, I leave my selector in the
up position. When in the neutral position I still get pressure build up.

Bruce

--Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: Nov 21, 2005 11:43 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

...unfortunately MAM is throwing Beige Semi-rigid nylon tube in the amphib
kits now (well at least the one I got last Thur) instead of the ship list
Parker Parflex...me not amused with being expected to try something
different (and I won't be)! I know what you're saying about bubble

chasing,

Walter, with the semi-clear parker parflex. Very easy to coax it up the
struts. Once you get it up towards the cabin you can cycle back and forth
partially to get it into the reservoir without pushing the air back down

to

the floats.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 11:39 PM
Subject: RE: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

I still have the original MAM plastic brake and hydraulic lines
in mine, and no problems since I solved the original fitting
leaks when first installed. One thing I do with mine that might
help, is I leave the valve lever in the middle/lock position,
which may relieve pressure on my lines.

Another advantage of the plastic lines is that you can see air
bubbles which were easy to get rid of then after installation
without having to bleed any lines. I retracted the front wheels
and then tilted the plane up or down to slowly move the air
bubbles where I wanted them to go.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Angus McKenzie
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 11:03 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

Hi Ken and Drew
The hydraulic lines in the cockpit blew in several
spots and the brake lines
have blown about 3 times once on wheel gear and twice
on floats. So, now we
have braided stainless and solid aluminum from your
feet to the calipers for
the brakes, this made a significant improvement
increasing brake efficiency.
The plastic lines on the hydraulic float pump have
blown on the pressure
side in three spots, (our Rebel will leak oil out of
the fuselage on hot
days for the rest of its life, I should probably
reweigh it and do a W&B
amendment for the spilled oil onboard) anyway, I now
have solid aluminum
from the pump to the floats but still have plastic
lines in the floats,
though I expect to replace that plastic line as well.
My most recent structural "need" is doublers at the
front of the rear corner
wraps under the door sill.
Sorry to have missed the get-together in Brampton on
Sunday-family issues.
Angus..............049R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

hydraulic lines. because of leaks. They brake lines though. I origional instalation. -------------------------------------------------------
---------- -------------------------------------------------------
---------- Date: 11/8/2004

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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.0.0 - Release
Date: 11/8/2004

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WALTER KLATT · Post by **WALTER KLATT** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:23 pm

The line that blew on Bruce's though, was not the clear plastic, but a fuel line grade from the pump to the selector. He was not supplied the correct line with his initial installation.

I think I might have some blow by in my cyl, too, which might actually help with pressure release. I have to pump mine up a few strokes before every take-off on water.

I do have a leak in one of rear cyl as there are always a few drops in my hangar by one wheel. I haven't been able to pinpoint that one, yet, with all the grease and crap inside the wheel well. I still plan to take them off some time this winter, and do a thorough check of everything.

But all in all, have been very pleased with the MAM amphibs so far.

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 7:40 am
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

To avoid pressure when static on the air lift at the lake I select
gear down
and pump the gear about four strokes down. Then I put the selector
in the
gear up posiiton. I first did it with 2 strokes down and the 35
degree days
where enough to retract the gear fully and put 200 psi on the gauge.

In the hangar I just dump the pressure and then reselect gear up
and keep an
eye on it and dump again when necessary.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Georgen" <bgeorgen@peoplepc.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

After blowing my float line in BC last summer, after setting in
the hot
sun for several hours while fishing with Walter, I leave my
selector in the
up position. When in the neutral position I still get pressure
build up.
Bruce

--Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: Nov 21, 2005 11:43 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

...unfortunately MAM is throwing Beige Semi-rigid nylon tube in
the amphib
kits now (well at least the one I got last Thur) instead of the
ship list
Parker Parflex...me not amused with being expected to try something
different (and I won't be)! I know what you're saying about bubble
chasing,
Walter, with the semi-clear parker parflex. Very easy to coax it
up the
struts. Once you get it up towards the cabin you can cycle back
and forth
partially to get it into the reservoir without pushing the air
back down
to
the floats.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 11:39 PM
Subject: RE: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

I still have the original MAM plastic brake and hydraulic lines
in mine, and no problems since I solved the original fitting
leaks when first installed. One thing I do with mine that might
help, is I leave the valve lever in the middle/lock position,
which may relieve pressure on my lines.

Another advantage of the plastic lines is that you can see air
bubbles which were easy to get rid of then after installation
without having to bleed any lines. I retracted the front wheels
and then tilted the plane up or down to slowly move the air
bubbles where I wanted them to go.

Walter

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Ken · Post by **Ken** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:23 pm

Hi Nigel

I'm staying with the 1/4" parkerflex for the time being as I expect to
operate within that pressure range. You sound like you've made up your
mind so I'll throw a couple of thoughts out. I seem to recall that the
3/16 plastic will take considerably more pressure and I think it is more
commonly used for brakes. That might be the next logical step up to
consider.

Note that the stainless braided teflon hose that Angus mentioned is
dramatically cheaper than the 601/701 series. It also has re-useable
do-it-yourself fittings available. The real expense in this stuff is the
fittings. The hassle is getting the right fittings, clocked correctly so
you don't have to twist the hose, on the right length of hose - so I
have never seriously considered pre-built hose like 601/701. Don't
forget that some fittings usually have to be swivel as well. There is
data on the cheap hose on the web but it seems odd that I haven't found
anyone with it for sale yet however so perhaps it is not readilly
available. I have no idea whether you can use non-certified hose where
you are but it would certainly be a large improvement over non-certified
plastic and probably every bit as good as certified for this application.

Ken

N.Smith wrote:

Hi All

I spoke with a guy at Parker this morning about rated value's for parflex
and similar 1/4" .035 sidewall nylon tubing and he reckons anything above
350-450 PSI is likely to cause problems after a while. He was unaware of a
specific problem related to weakening with UV exposure, but he thought it
quite likely after several years.

I'm definitely going for ali and 601/ae701 hose flexibles in my build. -4
for brake lines, and -6 for fuel and float hydraulics.

Nigel
745E

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Alan Hepburn · Post by **Alan Hepburn** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:23 pm

I just can't imagine why you guys don't fit solid/braided lines and forget
it?! Given the potential consequences of getting the nosewheels stuck half
way, is it worth the risk? The mains (at least on the Montana floats) would
probably drop under gravity, but the nose wheels are going to stay wherever
the are when the hydraulic system fails.

Al

----- Original Message -----
From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 10:11 AM
Subject: RE: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

Hi All

I spoke with a guy at Parker this morning about rated value's for parflex
and similar 1/4" .035 sidewall nylon tubing and he reckons anything above
350-450 PSI is likely to cause problems after a while. He was unaware of a
specific problem related to weakening with UV exposure, but he thought it
quite likely after several years.

I'm definitely going for ali and 601/ae701 hose flexibles in my build. -4
for brake lines, and -6 for fuel and float hydraulics.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bruce Georgen
Sent: 22 November 2005 06:02
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

After blowing my float line in BC last summer, after setting in the hot

sun

for several hours while fishing with Walter, I leave my selector in the up
position. When in the neutral position I still get pressure build up.

Bruce

--Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: Nov 21, 2005 11:43 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

...unfortunately MAM is throwing Beige Semi-rigid nylon tube in the amphib
kits now (well at least the one I got last Thur) instead of the ship list
Parker Parflex...me not amused with being expected to try something
different (and I won't be)! I know what you're saying about bubble

chasing,

Walter, with the semi-clear parker parflex. Very easy to coax it up the
struts. Once you get it up towards the cabin you can cycle back and forth
partially to get it into the reservoir without pushing the air back down

to

the floats.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 11:39 PM
Subject: RE: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

I still have the original MAM plastic brake and hydraulic lines
in mine, and no problems since I solved the original fitting
leaks when first installed. One thing I do with mine that might
help, is I leave the valve lever in the middle/lock position,
which may relieve pressure on my lines.

Another advantage of the plastic lines is that you can see air
bubbles which were easy to get rid of then after installation
without having to bleed any lines. I retracted the front wheels
and then tilted the plane up or down to slowly move the air
bubbles where I wanted them to go.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Angus McKenzie
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 11:03 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

Hi Ken and Drew
The hydraulic lines in the cockpit blew in several
spots and the brake lines
have blown about 3 times once on wheel gear and twice
on floats. So, now we
have braided stainless and solid aluminum from your
feet to the calipers for
the brakes, this made a significant improvement
increasing brake efficiency.
The plastic lines on the hydraulic float pump have
blown on the pressure
side in three spots, (our Rebel will leak oil out of
the fuselage on hot
days for the rest of its life, I should probably
reweigh it and do a W&B
amendment for the spilled oil onboard) anyway, I now
have solid aluminum
from the pump to the floats but still have plastic
lines in the floats,
though I expect to replace that plastic line as well.
My most recent structural "need" is doublers at the
front of the rear corner
wraps under the door sill.
Sorry to have missed the get-together in Brampton on
Sunday-family issues.
Angus..............049R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

hydraulic lines. because of leaks. They brake lines though. I origional instalation. -------------------------------------------------------
---------- -------------------------------------------------------
---------- Date: 11/8/2004

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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.0.0 - Release
Date: 11/8/2004

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Walter Klatt · Post by **Walter Klatt** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:23 pm

That's what grass fields are for, Al... ;>)

Don't know what the solid/braided lines weigh, but that might be
a reason to stay with the Parker.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Alan Hepburn
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 3:52 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

I just can't imagine why you guys don't fit
solid/braided lines and forget
it?! Given the potential consequences of getting the
nosewheels stuck half
way, is it worth the risk? The mains (at least on the
Montana floats) would
probably drop under gravity, but the nose wheels are
going to stay wherever
the are when the hydraulic system fails.

Al

----- Original Message -----
From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 10:11 AM
Subject: RE: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

Hi All

I spoke with a guy at Parker this morning about
rated value's for parflex
and similar 1/4" .035 sidewall nylon tubing and he
reckons anything above
350-450 PSI is likely to cause problems after a
while. He was unaware of a
specific problem related to weakening with UV
exposure, but he thought it
quite likely after several years.

I'm definitely going for ali and 601/ae701 hose
flexibles in my build. -4
for brake lines, and -6 for fuel and float hydraulics.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bruce Georgen
Sent: 22 November 2005 06:02
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

After blowing my float line in BC last summer,
after setting in the hot
sun
for several hours while fishing with Walter, I leave
my selector in the up
position. When in the neutral position I still get
pressure build up.
Bruce

--Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: Nov 21, 2005 11:43 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

...unfortunately MAM is throwing Beige Semi-rigid
nylon tube in the amphib
kits now (well at least the one I got last Thur)
instead of the ship list
Parker Parflex...me not amused with being expected
to try something
different (and I won't be)! I know what you're
saying about bubble
chasing,
Walter, with the semi-clear parker parflex. Very
easy to coax it up the
struts. Once you get it up towards the cabin you can
cycle back and forth
partially to get it into the reservoir without
pushing the air back down
to
the floats.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 11:39 PM
Subject: RE: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

I still have the original MAM plastic brake and
hydraulic lines
in mine, and no problems since I solved the
original fitting
leaks when first installed. One thing I do with
mine that might
help, is I leave the valve lever in the
middle/lock position,
which may relieve pressure on my lines.

Another advantage of the plastic lines is that you
can see air
bubbles which were easy to get rid of then after
installation
without having to bleed any lines. I retracted the
front wheels
and then tilted the plane up or down to slowly move the air
bubbles where I wanted them to go.

Walter

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Bruce Georgen · Post by **Bruce Georgen** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:23 pm

I have a leak in my right front cyl that always leaves its evidence on the hanger floor. It leaks out from a bad o ring when retracting and extending. It leaked from day one and MAM sent me a rebuilt kit for it but I've never used it. I've noticed it gets worse when it's cold. Some day I'll rebuilt it but now I just add half a quart several times a year as the level drops. I have had no problems with either the plastic lines or the amphibs other than the one time when MAM shipped rubber fuel line for the amphib kit instead of hydrolic.

Bruce

-----Original Message-----
From: WALTER KLATT <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Sent: Nov 22, 2005 11:13 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

The line that blew on Bruce's though, was not the clear plastic, but a fuel line grade from the pump to the selector. He was not supplied the correct line with his initial installation.

I think I might have some blow by in my cyl, too, which might actually help with pressure release. I have to pump mine up a few strokes before every take-off on water.

I do have a leak in one of rear cyl as there are always a few drops in my hangar by one wheel. I haven't been able to pinpoint that one, yet, with all the grease and crap inside the wheel well. I still plan to take them off some time this winter, and do a thorough check of everything.

But all in all, have been very pleased with the MAM amphibs so far.

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 7:40 am
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

To avoid pressure when static on the air lift at the lake I select
gear down
and pump the gear about four strokes down. Then I put the selector
in the
gear up posiiton. I first did it with 2 strokes down and the 35
degree days
where enough to retract the gear fully and put 200 psi on the gauge.

In the hangar I just dump the pressure and then reselect gear up
and keep an
eye on it and dump again when necessary.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Georgen" <bgeorgen@peoplepc.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

After blowing my float line in BC last summer, after setting in
the hot
sun for several hours while fishing with Walter, I leave my
selector in the
up position. When in the neutral position I still get pressure
build up.
Bruce

--Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: Nov 21, 2005 11:43 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

...unfortunately MAM is throwing Beige Semi-rigid nylon tube in
the amphib
kits now (well at least the one I got last Thur) instead of the
ship list
Parker Parflex...me not amused with being expected to try something
different (and I won't be)! I know what you're saying about bubble
chasing,
Walter, with the semi-clear parker parflex. Very easy to coax it
up the
struts. Once you get it up towards the cabin you can cycle back
and forth
partially to get it into the reservoir without pushing the air
back down
to
the floats.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 11:39 PM
Subject: RE: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

I still have the original MAM plastic brake and hydraulic lines
in mine, and no problems since I solved the original fitting
leaks when first installed. One thing I do with mine that might
help, is I leave the valve lever in the middle/lock position,
which may relieve pressure on my lines.

Another advantage of the plastic lines is that you can see air
bubbles which were easy to get rid of then after installation
without having to bleed any lines. I retracted the front wheels
and then tilted the plane up or down to slowly move the air
bubbles where I wanted them to go.

Walter

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Drew Dalgleish · Post by **Drew Dalgleish** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:23 pm

Aluminum lines crack and fittings break. I know I see it happen every day
in the mine where I work. To think that there's a permanent solution is not
realistic. the plastic lines can be as reliable as anything else if cared
for. It's also really hard to retrofit aluminum lines into closed up
floats. have an internal leak in one or more of my float cylinders that
lets the pressure bleed off after about 5 min. maybe it's a good thing cuz
I never have to worry about my system becoming overpressurized :)

This started out as a discussion about the plastic brake lines on a wheel
equipped rebel and I still say instal the parker flex stuff it works well
and even if it didn't not having brakes on a rebel is unlikely to cause any
problems.

At 05:54 PM 11/22/2005 -0800, you wrote:

That's what grass fields are for, Al... ;>)

Don't know what the solid/braided lines weigh, but that might be
a reason to stay with the Parker.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Alan Hepburn
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 3:52 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pressure in Rebel/Elite ?

I just can't imagine why you guys don't fit
solid/braided lines and forget
it?! Given the potential consequences of getting the
nosewheels stuck half
way, is it worth the risk? The mains (at least on the
Montana floats) would
probably drop under gravity, but the nose wheels are
going to stay wherever
the are when the hydraulic system fails.

Al

Drew

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