make it real hard boxing in and making the airbox inlet look correct though.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 11:17 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 4 door cowl-air box
Wayne,
Thanks for the reply in what must be a stressful time for you.
I'll have to lower the outlet area to at least 5" anyway to have clearance
for the carb heat scat tube and control linkage. After considering what
you said about the curve making it so you don't get enough outlet area
I'll try to make the center section a bit wider That should increase the
area some, and I think I'll bend a lip into the rear edge of the center
section and the doors before they start to curve too much. That should
help create a low pressure (like Roger Hoffman did). I wish I had my
exhaust in hand so I could see how that is going to interfere with the
center section if I make it too wide. What do you think about maximizing
the width at the aft end and tapering it to the nosebowl? Would require
another set of angles at the hinge line, and would cause the doors to open
into the prop arc a little, but that shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks.
Jesse
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 4 door cowl-air box
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 20:27:47 -0500
Sorry.. was at the daughters. Lowering the airbox area hinges won't buy
you
much extra outlet sq inches due to the way the door wraps around the
lower
edge of the fus/firewall corner. My fix cowl flaps add about 45 sq inches
of
outlet.
As for the hinge/angle combo.. it's just the angle your see.. attaching
on
the outside of the nose bowl lip and the hinge that holds the nut plate
for
the screw and goes on the inside, with the .025 material sandwiched
between
the two that closes off the area ahead and behind the inlet filter.
As for tightness.. you can be pretty snug with a conical mount.. with a
dynafocal you need at LEAST 1/2" all around.. and you'd seal that with
some
really soft weather strip material or silcon baffle seal material.
Conical
mount.. can be almost touching and IMHO doesn't require any seal..
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2010 11:10 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 4 door cowl-air box
Wayne,
Thanks for the pics, that's very helpful. I have also been looking at
your
pics on the archives btw. So, would you advise building the lower cowl
deeper in anticipation of cooling issues on floats, or just wait and
see
what I get? The fixed cowl flaps look fine anyway though, so I wouldn't
mind doing that later. I was planning to put the lower cowl 3 1/2"
below
the firewall. What do you think? I am also putting a lot of work into
the
inlet area/front baffles, so should have a good amount of inlet air.
Regarding your caution about having the airbox too close to the
surrounding cowl, It does look like you have a pretty tight fit. What
would you consider adequate clearance there, like 1/4"? Do you use
something like weatherstripping tape to seal around it, or just leave
an
air gap? You have your channel flanges facing down to create the
contour
around the airbox (which I like), are there additional angle flanges on
the inside of your bottom support?
It looks like you have a carb air temp sensor. Do you find that a
useful
addition?
Hope all my questions aren't too annoying. Thanks again.
Jesse
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