Flamemaster/Proseal/Tank Sealing Experience Questions

[David Ricker]

Hi Guys

"Couple" of questions today on tank sealing. We are about ready to cross that
bridge for the first time in our project and I have a few questions on materials
and approach. BTW I would do some of this research on the Flamemaster web site
but the product pages are off line!

1. We have some tank sealant which has been on the shelf in the basement for
about 5 years, it is labeled Sealpak Company and in fine print Flamemaster
Corp/Chemseal Div. (Do these guys have an identity crisis???). the P/N is
CS3204 B1/B2 - MIL-S-8802F (this is superseded by AMS 8802 by the way). By now,
I expect this stuff will be OK for flaying (sealing the fus skins together to
seal them & prevent corrosion) but not much more, what do you think?

2. We have been offered Flamemaster CS3204B2QT (quart size), from a local
supplier and I am told this is the thick type but can anyone tell me about the
B1/B2 designation on the can MAM sent with the kit? Is a different viscosity or
a different labeling?

3. Is this material impervious to avgas & mogas (alcohol)?

4. What advice can you give on tackling the tanks, our present plan is to do one
wing at a time (since only one wing is ready and space is at a premium) and not
do the upper skin until after all the pre-closing inspections are done. The
wings will be stored upstairs in the garage in the meantime.

5. How much sealant is really needed per tank? How much do you mix at once?
Any slick dispenser ideas?

6. Any more advice (except the shrink we'll need by the time this is done!)?

Thanks

Dave R.
Francine D.
Elite 583




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[Bob Patterson]

Hi Dave !

Your ProSeal <might> still be useful, but it's likely not
worth the risk !! The best way to store this stuff is in a freezer
(not a 'frost-free' fridge). You can mix up a small batch to test....

Your best resource would be the archives at dcsol - do a
keyword search on proseal or sealpak, and read the most recent first.
There's an explanation of the meaning of the numbers and codes
within the last month, and there are MANY good suggestions going
back a bit.

Generally, ProSeal resists avgas and mogas, and kerosene
(jet fuel) - I suspect there's "no known solvent" !! ;-^) :-)
You'll certainly think so after you've got a bit on your clothing !!

Best single suggestion I've heard - wear TWO pair of rubber gloves,
so you can remove the first set when gunked up, and not get it on
your hands. Other than that, Scotchbrite the surface to reveal
clean bare metal, and apply ProSeal. Wiping with anything can contaminate
the surface. Use a separate set of clecoes, stored in acetone,
to avoid getting oil from clecoes around rivet holes.

Good luck !! Have fun - it CAN be done, and it's not
quite as bad as you've heard !!! :-)

.....bobp

---------------------------------orig.-----------------------------
At 05:53 PM 8/19/02 -0300, you wrote:

Hi Guys

"Couple" of questions today on tank sealing. We are about ready to cross that
bridge for the first time in our project and I have a few questions on

materials

and approach. BTW I would do some of this research on the Flamemaster web site
but the product pages are off line!

1. We have some tank sealant which has been on the shelf in the basement for
about 5 years, it is labeled Sealpak Company and in fine print Flamemaster
Corp/Chemseal Div. (Do these guys have an identity crisis???). the P/N is
CS3204 B1/B2 - MIL-S-8802F (this is superseded by AMS 8802 by the way). By

now,

I expect this stuff will be OK for flaying (sealing the fus skins together to
seal them & prevent corrosion) but not much more, what do you think?

2. We have been offered Flamemaster CS3204B2QT (quart size), from a local
supplier and I am told this is the thick type but can anyone tell me about the
B1/B2 designation on the can MAM sent with the kit? Is a different

viscosity or

a different labeling?

3. Is this material impervious to avgas & mogas (alcohol)?

4. What advice can you give on tackling the tanks, our present plan is to

do one

wing at a time (since only one wing is ready and space is at a premium) and not
do the upper skin until after all the pre-closing inspections are done. The
wings will be stored upstairs in the garage in the meantime.

5. How much sealant is really needed per tank? How much do you mix at once?
Any slick dispenser ideas?

6. Any more advice (except the shrink we'll need by the time this is done!)?

Thanks

Dave R.
Francine D.
Elite 583


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[Jason Beall]

Two must haves:

1)Box of wooden tounge depressors for mixing...just
throw away as you use them

2)Box of at least 100 pair latex disposable gloves per
wing. They are so cheap that you can throw away a pair
just to handle another part without making a mess or
pick up the phone. I would typically go through 12-15
pair in one sitting.

-Jason

=====
________________________________________________

Jason Beall
Super Rebel No. 131
Aberdeen, Scotland, UK
super_rebel131@yahoo.com

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[tjpackard]

David:
A few things I found that seemed to work well for me using Proseal:
1. I traced the outline of each rib flange onto the mating skin so that I
could apply sealant to both the rib flange and the skin surface. If you
don't apply it to both surfaces, you may not get a continuous seal.
2. I used tongue depressors (popsicle sticks) to mix small quantities and
apply approx.. a 1/4" bead along the edge of a 4" wide plastic squeegee.
The squeegee is great for applying a thin, uniform layer of Proseal to the
rib flanges and the skin. Use the squeegee going across the flange or
skin surface in sections the width of the squeegee.
3. Another thing I did was to bring the top skin down onto the ribs with
the prosealed areas lined up. With the rib flanges not being exactly
straight or aligned with the skin, I ended up riveting a piece of stringer
across the upper portion of two ribs to hold them straight. That, coupled
with a couple of pieces of wood wedged between the ribs to help get
everything aligned exactly, allowed the prosealed skin portions to come
down right on top of the mating prosealed rib flanges. After everything
was held together, the wood pieces in the second and third bay were removed
with an attached string through the rib holes and out the inspection holes
in bay 1 or 4.

Tom Packard SR 043
N111TP reserved





David Ricker
<ricker@dbis.ns.ca To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com

cc: (bcc: Thomas J. Packard/US-Corporate/3M/US)

Subject: Flamemaster/Proseal/Tank Sealing Experience
08/19/2002 03:53 Questions
PM
Please respond to
murphy-rebel







Hi Guys

"Couple" of questions today on tank sealing. We are about ready to cross
that
bridge for the first time in our project and I have a few questions on
materials
and approach. BTW I would do some of this research on the Flamemaster web
site
but the product pages are off line!

1. We have some tank sealant which has been on the shelf in the basement
for
about 5 years, it is labeled Sealpak Company and in fine print Flamemaster
Corp/Chemseal Div. (Do these guys have an identity crisis???). the P/N is
CS3204 B1/B2 - MIL-S-8802F (this is superseded by AMS 8802 by the way). By
now,
I expect this stuff will be OK for flaying (sealing the fus skins together
to
seal them & prevent corrosion) but not much more, what do you think?

2. We have been offered Flamemaster CS3204B2QT (quart size), from a local
supplier and I am told this is the thick type but can anyone tell me about
the
B1/B2 designation on the can MAM sent with the kit? Is a different
viscosity or
a different labeling?

3. Is this material impervious to avgas & mogas (alcohol)?

4. What advice can you give on tackling the tanks, our present plan is to
do one
wing at a time (since only one wing is ready and space is at a premium) and
not
do the upper skin until after all the pre-closing inspections are done.
The
wings will be stored upstairs in the garage in the meantime.

5. How much sealant is really needed per tank? How much do you mix at
once?
Any slick dispenser ideas?

6. Any more advice (except the shrink we'll need by the time this is
done!)?

Thanks

Dave R.
Francine D.
Elite 583


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