Hi Guys
Working at the root end of the Rebel/Elite wing I am puzzling about which rivets
need to be dimpled.
The manual appears to ask for only the leading edge skin/root rib except the spar
locations but to me it would seem to make sense to do all but the tank skins (to
avoid weakening the skin there) so that the wing - Fus fairing strip will lay
flat.
In my photos of the MAM Elite C-FBZB their fairings are rather lumpy so I don't
think that should be a good indication of what can be done, what have you guys
done here? Is it realistic to try and get a smooth fairing fit? How? Which
rivets have you dimpled? Any photos?
Rebel builders shouldn't be shy to speak up here as I believe the Elite & Rebel
are identical here.
Thanks
Dave R.
Elite 583
www.elite583.cjb.net
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Wing Root Skin Dimpling
Wing Root Skin Dimpling
Hi David
I dimpled all the way around on mine except for the tank skins. As you
hinted, the countersunk rivets spec out a little weaker so I used Q
rivets which are a little more money but much stronger. I like to dimple
first and then drill to final size for good rivet fit.
I didn't want to use metal screws into the ribs to hold the fairing so I
also riveted several tabs ahead of and behind the tank skin so that I
could fasten the fairings to the tabs, similar to how I will fasten to
the tank skins. These are .032 aluminum strips about 1.5" wide with a 90
degree bend held by the rivets that go through the side of the rib. That
kind of makes it unecessary to dimple I guess.
Ken
David Ricker wrote:
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I dimpled all the way around on mine except for the tank skins. As you
hinted, the countersunk rivets spec out a little weaker so I used Q
rivets which are a little more money but much stronger. I like to dimple
first and then drill to final size for good rivet fit.
I didn't want to use metal screws into the ribs to hold the fairing so I
also riveted several tabs ahead of and behind the tank skin so that I
could fasten the fairings to the tabs, similar to how I will fasten to
the tank skins. These are .032 aluminum strips about 1.5" wide with a 90
degree bend held by the rivets that go through the side of the rib. That
kind of makes it unecessary to dimple I guess.
Ken
David Ricker wrote:
Hi Guys
Working at the root end of the Rebel/Elite wing I am puzzling about which rivets
need to be dimpled.
The manual appears to ask for only the leading edge skin/root rib except the spar
locations but to me it would seem to make sense to do all but the tank skins (to
avoid weakening the skin there) so that the wing - Fus fairing strip will lay
flat.
In my photos of the MAM Elite C-FBZB their fairings are rather lumpy so I don't
think that should be a good indication of what can be done, what have you guys
done here? Is it realistic to try and get a smooth fairing fit? How? Which
rivets have you dimpled? Any photos?
Rebel builders shouldn't be shy to speak up here as I believe the Elite & Rebel
are identical here.
Thanks
Dave R.
Elite 583
www.elite583.cjb.net
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Wing Root Skin Dimpling
Dear Dave,
I dimpled my wings all the way around, and I used a c.s. tank rivet from
Murphy that I liked a lot (RM-6405K). My left wing fuel tank outlets would
have interfered with a couple of Avex rivets, and here I squeezed a couple of
conventional AN rivets for clearance.
Best wishes,
Jeffrey Steenson
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I dimpled my wings all the way around, and I used a c.s. tank rivet from
Murphy that I liked a lot (RM-6405K). My left wing fuel tank outlets would
have interfered with a couple of Avex rivets, and here I squeezed a couple of
conventional AN rivets for clearance.
Best wishes,
Jeffrey Steenson
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Wing Root Skin Dimpling
Ken, Jeffery
Thanks guys, I had come to about the same conclusion about the need for the CSK rivets
for a nice smooth fairing. Wish MAM would think these things through a little more
when it comes to fit & finish.
Ken, I like your idea for the fairing mounting tabs.
Thanks again,
Dave R.
klehman wrote:
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
DARTEC Engineering Inc.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256
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Thanks guys, I had come to about the same conclusion about the need for the CSK rivets
for a nice smooth fairing. Wish MAM would think these things through a little more
when it comes to fit & finish.
Ken, I like your idea for the fairing mounting tabs.
Thanks again,
Dave R.
klehman wrote:
--Hi David
I dimpled all the way around on mine except for the tank skins. As you
hinted, the countersunk rivets spec out a little weaker so I used Q
rivets which are a little more money but much stronger. I like to dimple
first and then drill to final size for good rivet fit.
I didn't want to use metal screws into the ribs to hold the fairing so I
also riveted several tabs ahead of and behind the tank skin so that I
could fasten the fairings to the tabs, similar to how I will fasten to
the tank skins. These are .032 aluminum strips about 1.5" wide with a 90
degree bend held by the rivets that go through the side of the rib. That
kind of makes it unecessary to dimple I guess.
Ken
David Ricker wrote:*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*Hi Guys
Working at the root end of the Rebel/Elite wing I am puzzling about which rivets
need to be dimpled.
The manual appears to ask for only the leading edge skin/root rib except the spar
locations but to me it would seem to make sense to do all but the tank skins (to
avoid weakening the skin there) so that the wing - Fus fairing strip will lay
flat.
In my photos of the MAM Elite C-FBZB their fairings are rather lumpy so I don't
think that should be a good indication of what can be done, what have you guys
done here? Is it realistic to try and get a smooth fairing fit? How? Which
rivets have you dimpled? Any photos?
Rebel builders shouldn't be shy to speak up here as I believe the Elite & Rebel
are identical here.
Thanks
Dave R.
Elite 583
www.elite583.cjb.net
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*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
DARTEC Engineering Inc.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256
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