Rebel aileron drain grommets

[klehman]

Are other builders installing drain grommets in the fabric covered
flaperons like Stits says? I was considering installing one seaplane
grommet in the inboard corner and perhaps leaving the option of just
melting another one in each bay later. There is no mention of drain
grommets in the Murphy manual nor in the archives. I have a pile of
aluminum grommets but am not enthusiastic about making a bunch of dollar
patches to go over them. The Stits stc allows for melting drain holes
without grommets as long as there are two layers of fabric. I used a
wide tape on the trailing edge so I have two layers. Eventually this
thing will go on floats but I doubt much water spray is going to ever
get on the flaperons?? Also I get the impression that plastic seaplane
grommets will get brittle and crack before the life of the fabric is
over??.

At the moment I'm envying the Elite builders as this fabric business is
a lot of work for a first timer. Had much better results with the
finishing tapes by wetting them several times while they dried.

Ken



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[Drew Dalgleish]

Hi Ken I think drain grommets are something inspectors look for. I used the
plastic ones in my ailerons and they've been no trouble so far. Just glue
them on then melt a hole through the middle just before your colour coat. I
heated a big finishing nail squeezed in vice grips with a propane torch to
melt the holes and for the hinge holes. I found the covering process to be
fun and rewarding I'd even consider building a fabric plane.
Drew Dalgleish

At 04:19 PM 7/20/2002 -0400, you wrote:

Are other builders installing drain grommets in the fabric covered
flaperons like Stits says? I was considering installing one seaplane
grommet in the inboard corner and perhaps leaving the option of just
melting another one in each bay later. There is no mention of drain
grommets in the Murphy manual nor in the archives. I have a pile of
aluminum grommets but am not enthusiastic about making a bunch of dollar
patches to go over them. The Stits stc allows for melting drain holes
without grommets as long as there are two layers of fabric. I used a
wide tape on the trailing edge so I have two layers. Eventually this
thing will go on floats but I doubt much water spray is going to ever
get on the flaperons?? Also I get the impression that plastic seaplane
grommets will get brittle and crack before the life of the fabric is
over??.

At the moment I'm envying the Elite builders as this fabric business is
a lot of work for a first timer. Had much better results with the
finishing tapes by wetting them several times while they dried.

Ken

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[Robert Johnson]

Ken, I,m with Drew, I also enjoyed the fabric work and this was my first
also. Actually I was quite happy with the results. I did put plastic
seaplane grommets on at each rear rib bay as I also heard the inspectors
look for them. Floats are not in my immediate future but I did want the
aircraft "ready". Bob J Rebel 652-"flying"




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[klehman]

Bob and Drew

Thanks for the comments. I installed 24 grommets and dollar patches. It
was much quicker than I expected. I agree that it was good to experience
some fabric covering. It was a little frustrating trying to follow the
Stits manual on applying finishing tapes but I figured it out
eventually. My flaperons are not likely to win any beauty awards but
they are very structurally sound now which is all I really care about.

Ken




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[Legeorgen]

Ken,

Yes, you should do the seaplane grommets in every bay between the ribs. I covered an entire Kitfox, first time, by just following the Stitts manual with no problems. I actual enjoyed the process and found it very rewarding.

Bruce G 357R

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[Drew Dalgleish]

Ken
I also melted a hole in each side of each aileron right at the trailing
edge. Theres an open spot where the tip of the rib and the trailing edge
meet. This lets every last drop of water out.
Drew

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[klehman]

I like that idea Drew. I think most water would drain to that point
anyway.

FWIW - and it may not be much - I've now used every drop of 3 quarts of
polybrush and I have only done one spray coat of polybrush so far. It
looks like the optional second spray coat of polybrush might be a good
idea especially on the leading edge. A second brushed coat on the
leading edge before the first spray coat would have been a good idea I
think. Don't know how some guys got away with only using 2 quarts. I
have been thinning it 3:1 as recommended. I'm guessing I'll need 3
quarts of polyspray as it is supposed to go a bit further but I won't
skimp on it.

Ken
the adventure continues...

Drew Dalgleish wrote:

Ken
I also melted a hole in each side of each aileron right at the trailing
edge. Theres an open spot where the tip of the rib and the trailing edge
meet. This lets every last drop of water out.
Drew

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[Drew Dalgleish]

I don't remember how much polybrush I used but I went through a full gallon
of polyspray on my ailerons and gear legs. The gear legs and aileron
bottoms got 2 coats and the aileron tops got a 3rd coat
Drew

At 03:28 PM 7/23/2002 -0400, you wrote:

I like that idea Drew. I think most water would drain to that point
anyway.

FWIW - and it may not be much - I've now used every drop of 3 quarts of
polybrush and I have only done one spray coat of polybrush so far. It
looks like the optional second spray coat of polybrush might be a good
idea especially on the leading edge. A second brushed coat on the
leading edge before the first spray coat would have been a good idea I
think. Don't know how some guys got away with only using 2 quarts. I
have been thinning it 3:1 as recommended. I'm guessing I'll need 3
quarts of polyspray as it is supposed to go a bit further but I won't
skimp on it.

Ken
the adventure continues...

Drew Dalgleish wrote:

Ken
I also melted a hole in each side of each aileron right at the trailing
edge. Theres an open spot where the tip of the rib and the trailing edge
meet. This lets every last drop of water out.
Drew

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