Before everyone runs out to buy hat bushings for the stab and fin hinges I
thought I better add the following.
After completing the upgrades and closing all the tail feathers up I found
that I had to remove the hat bushings from the inboard 3 hinges on the stab.
The fin with the 3 "hats" worked great, as to a nice fit of the rudder. The
stab with all the "hats" in the hinges wouldn't allow fitting of the
elevator. I left the two outboard hinges with the "hats" and they hold the
elevator perfectly centered on the stab, with an even tip clearance at each
end. I had to remove the 3 inboard hats and replace them with straight
sleeves (that are just slightly less than the width of the gap between the
elevator hinge bracket pairs). The sleeves were then pressed into place in
the stab brackets and adjusted for center between the elevators hinge
brackets.
I should also add that I will most likely use drilled head bolts (and safety
tie to the structure) for the extra guarantee that the bolts will not spin
in the elevator or rudder hinge brackets. If they spin, it would ultimately
defeat the whole idea of having "throw away" wear by using the bushings on
the mating brackets in the first place.
The real fun part is that the elevator/stab hinge bolts are even worse to
put in than the rudder. The rudder has more generous gaps cut out and I
think the elevator may just have the same before I'm done!!!
Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 5:43 PM
Subject: SR - Fus/stab attach bracket bolts and Fin/Stab hinge bushings
98:Hello again SR'ers.
It does say in the manual to use 1/4" bolts. Manual dated 21/06/99 Step
in"Bolt the two Fus-370 front stab mounts and two Fus-371 rear stab mounts
Theplane with the AN4 bolts. The rear mounts ---------------"
It does not, unfortunately, tell you to drill them to a 1/4" at any point
before hand.
As for the hinges on the Fin and Stab, I did in fact ream them out and
install "hat" bushings today. I just happened to have the 8 bushings
required in my surplus stuff, no less/no more just enough to do the job.
.059ones I used are 1/4" ID x 3/8" O.D with a 1/2" diameter flange that is
diameterthick. Overall width is .322, which left just over 1/4" on the 3/8"
the(which nicely matches the hinge width). The flange will also work as my
thrust face so two things licked at once. Bushings should be easy to get
from any machinery supply outlet and/or various other places.
*******Please don't try this yourself unless you have the proper straight
reamers to match the bushing O.D, so once you put a coat of chromate on
arearea and press it in, it will stay there and not spin.******
**Posted two pictures to SR - Tail Feathers section. A little flash
"washed", but you can tell what they are!
Once again I must also state that the above is just my personal adlib on
building this thing. The final decision to do similar rests totally with
you!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 11:23 PM
Subject: Re: Anchor Nut & Another Option
bolts,Don and all SR'ers.
I almost bolted the stab attach brackets into the tail cone with 3/16on initial assembly, and then realized that the slots in the rear set
Back1/4" wide. Somewhere in the manual it tells you to use 1/4" bolts and I
<think> I read somewhere that you had to drill them to 1/4" to put those
1/4" bolts in!!
As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of choice.
toldwhen I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him he
"working".measthat he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with prosealEP420well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than theof(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a better job"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from
fintheyI'll make up my mind, on what to use, the morning I finally get to it!
Now you post a great idea like that! Will be great if you ever have to
change the hinges from wear. It will happen with the bolt just riding on
aluminium. The big thing is to make sure when you put the bolts in thatandare tight so they don't rotate in the rudder/elevator hinges. This will
leave only the fin/stab hinges to wear which are easy to get at and honeinsert bushings into when the time comes (or I might just do that now!).
That way you may never need to take the hinges off, but I like your wire
idea. Haven't closed the stab so not too late for me there. Will have to
have a look and see what I have for bolts, or start drilling some. The
propothers.is too late and I'm not going to open it back up.
The drilled head bolts should have the same tension strength as theJust think prop bolts have a hole through the head and heck a "real"
installingVERYbollt AN73 has 3 holes drilled through the head!!!
If you want some anchors contact me off line!
Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Boardman" <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 9:58 PM
Subject: Anchor Nut & Another Option
thatHi Wayne,
Good luck with your off loading Chinese Fire Drill. We where fortunateAerocet did a great job of crating. 40"X40"x22' , built very well andHEAVY.
You mentioned the close of your tail feathers. MAM recommends
totheexternal doublers using proseal. When we contacted the manufacturer,
largetoorder, they indicated that proseal for fuel was not there best product(productprevent corrosion between layers. We used the "corrosion proseal"number in the shop I can forward it if you want) It was brushable and
similar to the fuel brushable proseal. We used in between all the
re-torquelapsdoublers and skin in the upgrade. We also used it for skin structureareinthe tail feathers. (built from kit).
I felt the same way about the K2000's that's why I asked.
The anchor nuts ... you mention 1/4 x 28. Our Horizontal bracket boltssay3/16. ??????
You know Wayne, it wasn't so much the $24, a drop in the OCEAN as they3/16.when it comes to the cost of this project. I think it was the idea of
spending $3 on a 3/16 nut.
Anyway, I'd rather give you the $16 bucks + postage than the Big ACS.
BUT, do you think it is necessary to go 1/4" bolts when MAM supplied(more bolts to order)
Will wait for your response before making a decision on bolt size.
On another matter.
To prevent hinge bolts from spinning in the event we needed to
pinata future time or replace the various control hinges we used bolts with
drilled heads on the inside of the structure and used stiff wire to
http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htminthetwo heads together to prevent head rotation. Worked fine.
Question, do you know if the drilled head bolts have the same strength**tension as undrilled.?
Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner
Randy Bowers
SR3500#130 "The Muskie" M-14PF Aerocet 3400 amphibs, Rome, NY
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