Rebel Building Question . . .

[Terry Dazey]

Hello All:

I have a couple of Rebel building questions for you.

1. I am preparing to rivet on the top tailcone (corner) wraps as
mentioned in the manual. I have drilled out the ALL of the holes in the
top corner wraps to 1/8 (including the ends of the wraps at bulkhead "B"
and "E"). I know that there will be some further drilling of skins that
overlap at those locations, but at the time, my thought was that since
the corner wraps were riveted, and I were to have left them #40 I would
have not been able to get at the holes at "A" and "E" to debur them
once the overlapping (top/final) skins were drilled to #30. I am a
little nervous that when I go to back drill through the existing 1/8
holes (through the flanges, corner wrap skin and new skin), I might
enlarge the existing #30 holes more than necessary. Is this the correct
way to do this procedure? Now that the holes are drilled, is it best to
use a strap duplicator in a situation like this ? OR did I screw up and
will just have to be very careful drilling of the #30 holes? Sounds like
a Catch 22 to me. (I hope this is a clear explanation on this one).

2. In Figure 12.27.5 Number 17 Rebel Manual. Do I drill out the existing
9 rivets at the side overlaps at Bulkhead "A" and lay in the "new"
bulkhead doubler (the one that butts against "A" that faces aft) and
back drill through those 1/8 holes then rivet through both? That would
make the gap between the 2 bulkheads go from 1/4 inch at the bottom to
zero at the top (sides)? OR make a 1/4 inch spacer and rivet at the top
(sides) so the bulkheads are parallel all the way.

3. What does it mean at Figure 12.27.5 "bend the new bulkhead over to
accomplish this"?

Thanks in advance for the comments and suggestions.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Good Luck . . .





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[klehman]

FWIW you might like to try using a 135 degree split point bit for
drilling these type of holes as I find they center better and are less
likely to elongate the existing #30 guide hole in thin aluminum.
Compared to the standard 118 degree point that is. I keep a couple of
good quality sharp cobalt bits around specifically for this purpose, but
then again it could be just my imagination...
Ken

Terry Dazey wrote:

once the overlapping (top/final) skins were drilled to #30. I am a
little nervous that when I go to back drill through the existing 1/8
holes (through the flanges, corner wrap skin and new skin), I might
enlarge the existing #30 holes more than necessary. Is this the correct

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[Terry Dazey]

klehman wrote:

FWIW you might like to try using a 135 degree split point bit for
drilling these type of holes as I find they center better and are less
likely to elongate the existing #30 guide hole in thin aluminum.

I think you are correct on this Ken. A split point bit is not suppose to
wander on the material as does a standard ground bit. Thanks for the
suggestion. I think I will fire up the Drill Doctor this evening and make me a
couple, test them out and see how it works.

Another thing is just to take time and go slow with a helping hand on the
other side to hold things steady.

Thanks!

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662




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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Yah, and make sure that helping hand is behind a block of wood!! They don't
help for long after the first time you have to dig around in their
finger/hand to find that swirl of aluminium, that their flesh was so kind to
clean off the bit!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Dazey" <dazey@earthlink.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Rebel Building Question . . .

------------------clipped

Another thing is just to take time and go slow with a helping hand on the
other side to hold things steady.

Thanks!

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662


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[klehman]

Yes and the 135 degree point may help too. A 118 degree requires more
than 0.032" material thickness to center it whereas a 135 degree point
only requires more than 0.024" which is still iffy if drilling through
0.020 material. If you've got a bit grinder, something even greater than
135 might be worth trying. If the bit is not centered when you start it
pretty much guarantees some ovalness so to speak.
Ken

Terry Dazey wrote:

klehman wrote:

FWIW you might like to try using a 135 degree split point bit for
drilling these type of holes as I find they center better and are less
likely to elongate the existing #30 guide hole in thin aluminum.

I think you are correct on this Ken. A split point bit is not suppose to
wander on the material as does a standard ground bit. Thanks for the
suggestion. I think I will fire up the Drill Doctor this evening and make me a
couple, test them out and see how it works.

Another thing is just to take time and go slow with a helping hand on the
other side to hold things steady.

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[Terry Dazey]

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

Yah, and make sure that helping hand is behind a block of wood!! They don't
help for long after the first time you have to dig around in their
finger/hand to find that swirl of aluminium, that their flesh was so kind to
clean off the bit!

Yes Wayne. I got a laugh when Chuck Bailey's wife quit helping him when he
ran a drill bit into her hand (on the other side of a sheet of aluminum). She
was okay, just a small nick. Chuck told me that she never helped after that.
Eh, Chuck?

Thanks for your input yesterday concerning drilling through an already drilled
set of skins. I was going to reply to you this morning but I left your post on
my confuser at home. You really have great experience, ideas and suggestions.
Thanks!

I will not use a strap duplicator (I saw that one coming), so I will do as you
suggest and take my time when back drilling the holes in the flanges through
the skins. I am also going to make an aluminum 1/4 inch spacer, drill a 9 hole
pattern in it and transfer to Bulkhead "A" and its mate then rivet it all
together like a sandwich. That way both bulkhead rivet lines will remain
parallel for the full length. It will add some weight . . . but it should LQQK
good.

Thanks again for the information and shedding some light.

Have a GREAT week,
Terry Dazey
Rebel 662






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[Terry Dazey]

klehman wrote:

Yes and the 135 degree point may help too. A 118 degree requires more
than 0.032" material thickness to center it whereas a 135 degree point
only requires more than 0.024" which is still iffy if drilling through
0.020 material. If you've got a bit grinder, something even greater than
135 might be worth trying. If the bit is not centered when you start it
pretty much guarantees some ovalness so to speak.

Ken:
Yes. Just for the grins, I recently purchased a Drill Doctor 750SPK (you know . . .
the more tools the better), but I have yet used it on any of my "Rebel" bits. I
think it has a fixed chuck/head and will only allow one to put a 118 degree or 135
degree angle on the tip . . . no freeform grinding. It should be an interesting
process.

Thanks for the information Ken.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662




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