Wet wing stringer seal angles.

[Ralph Baker]

Dave, welcome to the murky world of Murphy manuals! You have discovered
the Weakest Link! As for the seal angles, we found the easiest way to
shape the "J" cutout was to make a small jig from scrap stringer and felt
pen mark the required cutout. The cutout was made with a 1/8" diameter
carbide cutter by Dremel. As you have surmised, it is basically "to suit".
The idea is to provide a support for the dreaded ProSeal. An A&P friend
said the ProSeal will support itself in a 1/4" hole but we used 1/8" max
with generous fillets. Also note the ProSeal will run until set up and the
smaller gaps are better. We also dipped each rivet in ProSeal at
installation. When you seal the tanks do NOT scrimp on the ProSeal. Be
especially careful at the tank corners, rear bulkheads, and main spar spar
caps. I recommend a second coat on all the seams of the "tub" before
installing the top skin. We found 1/2" "acid" brushes to be most helpful
in ProSeal application. One consideration is that ProSeal is "timed" at 70
degrees F and every 10 degrees above that cuts the cure time in half.

We did have 2 leaks at the rear bulkheads. A useful tool to locate these
is a stethoscope with a plastic tube to hear the whoosh when the tank is
pressurized by mouth.

Good luck and may the Force be with you.
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)




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[David Ricker]

Hi Ralph

Yeah, the manual is really there as a guide, you have to think about whether
what it says really make sense before cutting metal. Don't think it should be
quite like that but here we are.

Thanks for the pointers on Prosealing, we'll keep them in mind when we get
there and we will indeed call on the secrets of The Force to guide us theough
the unknown territory of the mystical Proseal!!

Cheers

Dave R.


Ralph Baker wrote:

Dave, welcome to the murky world of Murphy manuals! You have discovered
the Weakest Link! As for the seal angles, we found the easiest way to
shape the "J" cutout was to make a small jig from scrap stringer and felt
pen mark the required cutout. The cutout was made with a 1/8" diameter
carbide cutter by Dremel. As you have surmised, it is basically "to suit".
The idea is to provide a support for the dreaded ProSeal. An A&P friend
said the ProSeal will support itself in a 1/4" hole but we used 1/8" max
with generous fillets. Also note the ProSeal will run until set up and the
smaller gaps are better. We also dipped each rivet in ProSeal at
installation. When you seal the tanks do NOT scrimp on the ProSeal. Be
especially careful at the tank corners, rear bulkheads, and main spar spar
caps. I recommend a second coat on all the seams of the "tub" before
installing the top skin. We found 1/2" "acid" brushes to be most helpful
in ProSeal application. One consideration is that ProSeal is "timed" at 70
degrees F and every 10 degrees above that cuts the cure time in half.

We did have 2 leaks at the rear bulkheads. A useful tool to locate these
is a stethoscope with a plastic tube to hear the whoosh when the tank is
pressurized by mouth.

Good luck and may the Force be with you.
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)

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--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
DARTEC Engineering Inc.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256





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