Hi fellow travellers! Harumph. I finally received the cabin (hot water)
heater from the PRINCESS automotive folks.
It has a red wire and a black wire( 12V and ground I would assume). With it
they sold me a switch, it however has four tabs on it, marked H, L, B and C.
What goes where please? Also for those of you that have used this nice
little heater, where have you placed it? Forward of firewall or aft of same?
Finally an important question, I still have split flaps and ailerons. When I
go up and it is smooth air, no problems.
However when there is even light chop, I go stop to stop with the old
ailerons! The same is experienced by my fellow Rebel pilot in Southern
Maine. I am wondering is the bellcrank of the Elite(also split flaps)
diffferent than the one on the Rebel (and I am speaking of the updated
bellcrank)?? Anybody with an answer, it would be much appreciated by at
least two people, that are beginning to wonder. Thank you. Regards, Geert
Frank
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Aurele Lavigne
as below
Geert, can you give the specs on that heater, wieght, dimensions etc., as
well as price. I was about to look at adding one myself.
Thanks,
Aurele Lavigne
Hearst, ON
063R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 10:14 PM
Subject: as below
--------*
--------*
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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well as price. I was about to look at adding one myself.
Thanks,
Aurele Lavigne
Hearst, ON
063R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 10:14 PM
Subject: as below
itHi fellow travellers! Harumph. I finally received the cabin (hot water)
heater from the PRINCESS automotive folks.
It has a red wire and a black wire( 12V and ground I would assume). With
C.they sold me a switch, it however has four tabs on it, marked H, L, B and
same?What goes where please? Also for those of you that have used this nice
little heater, where have you placed it? Forward of firewall or aft of
IFinally an important question, I still have split flaps and ailerons. When
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------go up and it is smooth air, no problems.
However when there is even light chop, I go stop to stop with the old
ailerons! The same is experienced by my fellow Rebel pilot in Southern
Maine. I am wondering is the bellcrank of the Elite(also split flaps)
diffferent than the one on the Rebel (and I am speaking of the updated
bellcrank)?? Anybody with an answer, it would be much appreciated by at
least two people, that are beginning to wonder. Thank you. Regards, Geert
Frank
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
--------*
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
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-
Wayne G. O'Shea
as below
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 165 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 23:29:09 on 14 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello Geert, Hate to tell you that you wasted $6.48, but the 3425 BTU heater
is a single speed unit, hense the single power wire set (red and black). If
it was 2 speed to match your switch, it would have extra wires coming out of
it to go on all those extra lugs on the switch. You could probably hook it
to a rheostat, but probably better to let it run full speed using a normal
toggle switch and I would put a valve in the water line to control the
available heat output. The mid/late 70's Chrysler products (and I'm sure
many more newer vehicles) had a nice valve that either let both hoses flow
in & out of the heater core, or when fully rotated they shut off the heater
lines and joined the in and out to allow the water circulation to continue
to the engines water pump (which helps with engine cooling during the warmer
days).
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 10:14 PM
Subject: as below
--------*
--------*
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 165 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 23:29:09 on 14 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello Geert, Hate to tell you that you wasted $6.48, but the 3425 BTU heater
is a single speed unit, hense the single power wire set (red and black). If
it was 2 speed to match your switch, it would have extra wires coming out of
it to go on all those extra lugs on the switch. You could probably hook it
to a rheostat, but probably better to let it run full speed using a normal
toggle switch and I would put a valve in the water line to control the
available heat output. The mid/late 70's Chrysler products (and I'm sure
many more newer vehicles) had a nice valve that either let both hoses flow
in & out of the heater core, or when fully rotated they shut off the heater
lines and joined the in and out to allow the water circulation to continue
to the engines water pump (which helps with engine cooling during the warmer
days).
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 10:14 PM
Subject: as below
itHi fellow travellers! Harumph. I finally received the cabin (hot water)
heater from the PRINCESS automotive folks.
It has a red wire and a black wire( 12V and ground I would assume). With
C.they sold me a switch, it however has four tabs on it, marked H, L, B and
same?What goes where please? Also for those of you that have used this nice
little heater, where have you placed it? Forward of firewall or aft of
IFinally an important question, I still have split flaps and ailerons. When
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------go up and it is smooth air, no problems.
However when there is even light chop, I go stop to stop with the old
ailerons! The same is experienced by my fellow Rebel pilot in Southern
Maine. I am wondering is the bellcrank of the Elite(also split flaps)
diffferent than the one on the Rebel (and I am speaking of the updated
bellcrank)?? Anybody with an answer, it would be much appreciated by at
least two people, that are beginning to wonder. Thank you. Regards, Geert
Frank
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
--------*
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
Geert Frank
as below
I had trouble getting this below message out. Also need to hear from a
flying Elite owner, namely what is your aileron up and aileron down travel
in degrees and are you happy with your aileron control. Many thanks aFrom:
"Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: several as below
Date: Saturday, September 01, 2001 10:02 AM
Howdy to all! Boy, I finally get to say a few words, after feeling left out
by those SR and floatdiscussions. I have had autofuel in both my tanks. Some
of it for quite a long period. I had to mix some 100LL with it. Absolutely
no problem, always knock on wood of course. There are no leaks and therefore
all must be holding as programmed. For the few Subaru Legacy equipped
machines, I removed my O2 sensor when bobp ferried my machine several years
ago and I screwed in a sensor without wires I had laying around. I did this
because word had it that 100LL would coke up the O2 sensor in a matter of
minutes and do strange feedback to the computer. Even though I have had
nothing but autogas since the ferry trip, the O2 sensor is still out. It
runs well without it. How does it go again: if it ain't broke don't fix it.
The mystery still remains, why does the engine start so lousy at cooler and
horribly at real cold temps. This is a car engine for heaven's sake. I did
get the suggestion from nice folks on the forum and did install a timer and
blockheater. Unreal! It starts at the first blade. But why does one need the
blockheater in the first place? My aileron control is still lousy and I have
not changed to the flaperon system, for several reasons: why did the factory
go to the split flap system on the Elite? Does it run out of aileron control
as mine does? If so what was done to rectify this? My pal in Maine with
split flaps on his Rebel is now happy with its aileron behavior, because he
claims since he has hung a set of floats under the machine, it is a changed
animal. My many years of airline flying do not qualify me to figure out
these strange aerodynamic happenings. I am staying on my standard wheel
landing gear, but I have to do something. My Rebel can only be flown on very
calm and stable air days, near uncontrollable otherwise. No fun. Any input
will still be very much appreciated. Especially when not counting the SR
folks where are all the other Rebels that are part of this net? Never a
word. That's it. Still very happy with the bungee loops on my landing gear.
Work very well. Regards, Geert Frank
nd here comes the original message, that will explain the above question.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
flying Elite owner, namely what is your aileron up and aileron down travel
in degrees and are you happy with your aileron control. Many thanks aFrom:
"Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: several as below
Date: Saturday, September 01, 2001 10:02 AM
Howdy to all! Boy, I finally get to say a few words, after feeling left out
by those SR and floatdiscussions. I have had autofuel in both my tanks. Some
of it for quite a long period. I had to mix some 100LL with it. Absolutely
no problem, always knock on wood of course. There are no leaks and therefore
all must be holding as programmed. For the few Subaru Legacy equipped
machines, I removed my O2 sensor when bobp ferried my machine several years
ago and I screwed in a sensor without wires I had laying around. I did this
because word had it that 100LL would coke up the O2 sensor in a matter of
minutes and do strange feedback to the computer. Even though I have had
nothing but autogas since the ferry trip, the O2 sensor is still out. It
runs well without it. How does it go again: if it ain't broke don't fix it.
The mystery still remains, why does the engine start so lousy at cooler and
horribly at real cold temps. This is a car engine for heaven's sake. I did
get the suggestion from nice folks on the forum and did install a timer and
blockheater. Unreal! It starts at the first blade. But why does one need the
blockheater in the first place? My aileron control is still lousy and I have
not changed to the flaperon system, for several reasons: why did the factory
go to the split flap system on the Elite? Does it run out of aileron control
as mine does? If so what was done to rectify this? My pal in Maine with
split flaps on his Rebel is now happy with its aileron behavior, because he
claims since he has hung a set of floats under the machine, it is a changed
animal. My many years of airline flying do not qualify me to figure out
these strange aerodynamic happenings. I am staying on my standard wheel
landing gear, but I have to do something. My Rebel can only be flown on very
calm and stable air days, near uncontrollable otherwise. No fun. Any input
will still be very much appreciated. Especially when not counting the SR
folks where are all the other Rebels that are part of this net? Never a
word. That's it. Still very happy with the bungee loops on my landing gear.
Work very well. Regards, Geert Frank
nd here comes the original message, that will explain the above question.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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