Now that the retainer is off, does anyone have any hints on how to get the
masking tape separated from the fiberglass? I've pulled off as much as I can
but what is left is really stuck on. I don't want to use anything that would
soften the fiberglass
Hello Roger:
My EZ canopy had gray duct tape on it for more than 2 years. When I pealed the
gray tape off, it left very little tape residue on the canopy and the cured
fiberglass canopy rails, so my cleaning was minimal. I guess I lucked out.
There was a small amount of tape residue in the weave of the cured Saf-T-Poxy
(Epolite) fiberglass. If I recall (Yeow!, That was 18 years ago), I wiped the
local area very quickly with Acetone and picked at it with my Exacto knife. The
goo that I couldn't get, went away with final sanding before filler. I am not
sure what type of epoxy you are using, but be careful when using chemicals here.
A couple of my EZ builder pals ended up with a residue mess on their canopies. I
have heard them use "Goof-Off", "Goo-Gone" kerosene and even WD-40 being used
but I am not sure of the effects it will have on your cured fiberglass. Take a
scrap piece of same material and TRY IT FIRST!
You mentioned in your original post that you used masking tape for a "release".
I typically use gray duct tape in applications similar to what you are doing on
your Rebel windshield frame. I have also used Syran Wrap carefully placed and
taped with no wrinkles on the area where a layup (and removal of the layup) is
to be accomplished. On perfectly flat layups where you need a cured flat panel,
I use store bought release agent or Syran Wrap taped down on each corner with no
wrinkles (DO NOT use wax paper as the wax may contaminate the epoxy on the
mating surface if you intend to attach the cured piece to another piece later).
Whatever you do . . . DO NOT use masking tape for a release! Instructions on
some masking tape even say NOT to leave on longer than 48 hours or you will be
scraping it off. In my opinion, the chemicals from epoxy have an effect on the
masking tape stickum also. Masking tape will not work well! IMHO.
When accomplishing a multiple ply layup, I will use brown paper (an unfolded
paper bag or equivalent) and mark "cut here" lines on it with black felt pen.
Wet out the brown paper on the workbench and layup all of the plys a bit
oversized onto the paper. Once you are satisfied that all of the plys are
sufficiently stippled and squeeged (no air bubbles or white cloth fibers), cut
the paper and cloth layups with your good industrial Weiss scissors on the "cut
here" lines you previously made (you should be able to see the "cut here" lines
through your layup). You will then be able to carry the whole mess over to your
plane. Lay the cloth down onto the area with the brown paper on the outside and
s-l-o-w-l-y and very carefully use your 1/2 wide cheep-o paintbrush to
pick-and-peel the paper off. Once the paper is removed, carefully finish
stippling the layups into place. Now that all of that is accomplished, clean up
your tools, remove your latex gloves, go wash your hands and pat yourself on the
back for a job well done.
Use a mixing container that has NO wax in it. (Some "Dixie" type cups have a
layer of wax on the inside). The epoxy could become contaminated with the wax
from the cup from the stirring process.
For a stir stick, take a toung depressor and cut one end off flat. This will
allow you to get into the mixing cup bottom for complete mixing of the two-part
epoxy.
A hair dryer used very sparingly can help wet out the cloth on cool days. Just
warm the area that you are wetting out NOT hot!
Was this a long answer to a short question? Sorry . . .
These are just MY opinions and thoughts.
Have fun and good luck.
Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington U.S.A.
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