It is true that one should follow directions, but that's hardly novel. If
you don't follow good practices, a traditional nutplate will also fail, and
in addition the material itself is likely to fail sooner too due to
weakening from more holes!
I have already detailed here the very few early instances -- out of many
hundreds -- of Click Bond "failure" I've experienced, and in each case
precisely because I didn't follow directions. Remember, a Click Bond
nutplate "failure" only means the "nut" turns when you try to unscrew the
fastener with quite a bit of torque. There's no other structural failure and
the nut is still going to hold, even initially against significant torque.
When it comes to structural failure, what material -- whether aluminum,
fiberglass, or whatever -- is stronger with three closely spaced holes in it
(traditional nutplate) than with.one hole (CB)?
Click Bonds are widely used in the aerospace & defense industries. If you
don't trust them in your airplane, you might want to stop flying commercial,
and move to protection of a new DOD as well. I trust them in my airplane,
from panel mounts to torque tube ends to the stabilizer forward attach
bolts. Why? On several occasions I've tried to remove them. Assuming I'm not
applying heat well above the max. 250F spec, that's not possible. The
adhesive, which replaces two extra holes in the material, isn't coming off
unless you grind or sand it off.
Ron
On Tue, Oct 25, 2011 at 5:34 AM, Keith Leitch <
im_planecrazy@yahoo.com>wrote:
This not a good or bad comment on the 'click bond' but I would do a little
research on them first. I just was sent an article a few days ago about the
long term usage of these type of connectors attached with adhesive. I can't
remember all the particulars but if I can find the article (deleted it) I
will repost or forward it. I do remember that it is VERY import to follow
the instructions to the letter and after reading it I didn't think I would
use them for anything so deleted the article.
Keith
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