Have fun with those flaperon hinge bolt washers, nuts, and cotter pins.
Hemostats, 45-deg. long nose pliers, and small flat wrenches help. Not one
of my favorite jobs, though it does get easier the more times you do it.
Don't forget the large, thin, black nylon washers that go over the bushings,
between flaperons and hinges.
I've never heard of a steel spring gear being made for the Rebel. Grove has
made one or more custom, one piece aluminum spring gears, but they're not
light and require custom saddles, etc. The two-piece Murphy spring gear is
adequate if you keep tabs on the bolt torque regularly per the SB. Angus
McKenzie made an interesting angle gizmo to firm up the spring gear
connection geometry. Pics are in the archives.
Because your plane was already inspected, I assume it was weighed and you
have an empty CG location already. If the original owner thought the tail
was "too light" it should be reflected in a too far forward empty CG, of
course. Personally, I'd be inclined to weigh it again anyway, just to be
sure. Changing from the std. Murphy aluminum "club" tailspring and hard
rubber tailwheel to a modified Champ steel spring and 8" Iron Design
pneumatic tailwheel (similar to Scott) added 5 lbs. to my tail weight. Keep
in mind that when you change tailsprings, you may have to change the spacing
above the TS-3, which may then require making new stabilizer struts. Been
there.
As Drew suggests, moving the battery aft is the most common way to really
change the balance. However, you end up adding quite a bit of overall weight
in the process because of the need for long, heavy gauge cables. If I were
doing that I'd probably use the lightweight CCA cables from
http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires.htm .
Ron
254R
On Sat, Sep 17, 2011 at 7:03 AM, <
drewjan@cabletv.on.ca> wrote:
Best to wait till your weight and balance is done before adding any weight.
You can install your ELT as far back as possible and if you need more weight
in the back moving your battery should be enough. A bigger tailwheel also
makes a lot of difference.
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Jill Oakes <
oakesje@cc.umanitoba.ca>
Sender:
mike.davis@dcsol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 22:04:24
To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com><
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Reply-to:
rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] setup queries (was email listing)
Thank you Ron this is most helpful
Now have all the components on and adding cotterpins to the flaperon bolts
tomorrow & weight n balance
Do you know where I can purchase spring steel landing gear for a Murphy
rebel?
Keen to learn how to start and run the radial rotec properly as I get ready
to do taxi test. The original builder felt the tail was too light -has
anyone needed to add weight to the tail and if so how much and how/where?
Thank you
Jill
Sent from my iPhone
On 2011-09-16, at 1:59 PM, Ron Shannon <
rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:
Jill,
I've edited the subject line to better reflect your questions. For those
on
the list who may not yet know, Jill has acquired a completed Rebel, with
a
radial engine, that was inspected but has not yet been flown, and she
resides in Winnipeg. Welcome to the list! :-)
The only movement where the vertical push-pull tubes meet the torque tube
horns should be the normal, very slight rotation of the vertical tubes
around their rod end bearings (~ 1/8 turn or so). Otherwise, the
connection
between rod end bearings and torque tube horns should be tight - no
wobbles
at all. The fastener used there is a flat head machine screw, with the
head
countersunk into the horn. Details of building and alignment of the
controls, including these parts, is contained in Ch. 20 "Control
Systems".
The actual length of the horizontal stabilizer struts will vary a little,
depending upon the vertical position of TS-3, the piece to which the
bottom
of the struts attach. In other words, the actual length of the struts
depend
on what size of spacers are used above and below the tailspring between
the
fuse and the TS-3. Bottom line is the tailspring is mounted first, and
the
struts should then be made long enough to make the stabilizers level,
side-to-side. If the stabilizers are level, side-to-side, when the fuse
is
level, then the strut length is correct.
The manual is available on CD from Murphy (email to:
shipping@murphyair.com
wrote:
Is the flaperon hinge pt bolt- where the vertical push pull tubes join
the
horizontal tube - supposed to be wobbly?
What is the length if the horizontal stab braces?
Is there a digital copy of chapters 17-38?
Thank you
Jill
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