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[rebel-builders] gap seals around windows

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Roland Kriening

[rebel-builders] gap seals around windows

Post by Roland Kriening » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:55 pm

Ralph,

You are a patient man...some like building more than flying and some the
other. The further I get into the project the more impatient I become. I
think I am getting tired of building and just want to fly. I constantly have
to slow myself down and make sure I read the instructions ( and online
comments ) at least a couple of times. Thanks for the ideas. Today I remade
my door windows out of lexan, the others are still plexi. I figure that the
plexi windows (skylights and side windows) actually float in the frames and
won't need rivets so I can stay with plexi there.

I know some have made the lower front half of the door out of plexi as well.
I have two extra skylight frames that I am thinking of building into the
front lower door as windows. They will float in the frames as well so I can
use plexi there as well. Lexan would definitely get scratched up down there.

Roland
R 56

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ralph
Baker
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2011 1:16 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] gap seals around windows

Never one to take the simple route I elected to use plexi in the side
windows. One reason is that gasoline on lexan immediately and permanently
damages it. The plexi has a considerable expansion coefficient and won't
take stressing (rivet compression) well. Wanting to add as much work and
complication as possible I found a steel miniature washer that would just go
over the selected pulled rivet. (Don't remember if I used 1/8 or 3/32
rivet). The washers had a very small outside diameter, just about the size
of the rivet head. A clearance hole for the washer OD was drilled in the
plexi and 3 washers were stacked on each rivet so the plexi would float
(barely) on the rivet column. The rivet then pulls down only on the gap
seal and washers and not on the plexi. A good project to do in the winter
with plenty of Irish coffee at hand.
Ralph Baker



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Bob Andrews

[rebel-builders] gap seals around windows

Post by Bob Andrews » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:55 pm

I built my doors with lexan windows. Lexan's real easy to work with and I
like that. If down the road, they get scratched up or stained by fuel ...
and I just can't live with them anymore, I'll just buy more lexan, drill out
the rivets, and replace them ... not that big a deal. So far I am very
happy "flying" camper ... :)

Bob, 612e

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Roland
Kriening
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2011 12:33 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] gap seals around windows

Ralph,

You are a patient man...some like building more than flying and some the
other. The further I get into the project the more impatient I become. I
think I am getting tired of building and just want to fly. I constantly have
to slow myself down and make sure I read the instructions ( and online
comments ) at least a couple of times. Thanks for the ideas. Today I remade
my door windows out of lexan, the others are still plexi. I figure that the
plexi windows (skylights and side windows) actually float in the frames and
won't need rivets so I can stay with plexi there.

I know some have made the lower front half of the door out of plexi as well.
I have two extra skylight frames that I am thinking of building into the
front lower door as windows. They will float in the frames as well so I can
use plexi there as well. Lexan would definitely get scratched up down there.

Roland
R 56

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ralph
Baker
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2011 1:16 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] gap seals around windows

Never one to take the simple route I elected to use plexi in the side
windows. One reason is that gasoline on lexan immediately and permanently
damages it. The plexi has a considerable expansion coefficient and won't
take stressing (rivet compression) well. Wanting to add as much work and
complication as possible I found a steel miniature washer that would just go
over the selected pulled rivet. (Don't remember if I used 1/8 or 3/32
rivet). The washers had a very small outside diameter, just about the size
of the rivet head. A clearance hole for the washer OD was drilled in the
plexi and 3 washers were stacked on each rivet so the plexi would float
(barely) on the rivet column. The rivet then pulls down only on the gap
seal and washers and not on the plexi. A good project to do in the winter
with plenty of Irish coffee at hand.
Ralph Baker



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